Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


pplachta


Jun 7, 2010, 2:34 AM
Post #1 of 9 (1643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 6

Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was wondering about clean aid on Wall of the Worlds (Calaveras Dome) -- at least the 1st 2 pitches should be very possible since they are all crack. I am not sure about the 3rd (crux) traverse pitch under the roof.
Can anyone advise?

Thanks!!


dingus


Jun 7, 2010, 3:05 AM
Post #2 of 9 (1614 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17394

Re: [pplachta] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes you could aid the first 5 (4 if the first 2 pitches strung together). Above that it goes to runnout face climbing.

I would suggest yielding to free climbers if the route is busy. Its always been a free climb so far as I know, from the FA onward.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Jun 7, 2010, 3:06 AM)


pplachta


Jun 7, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #3 of 9 (1522 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 6

Re: [dingus] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks a lot. I will definitely be polite, and will go during the week anyway, not expecting it to be busy (this is why I would rather try this here then, say, in Yosemite :) ).


dingus


Jun 7, 2010, 10:14 PM
Post #4 of 9 (1517 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17394

Re: [pplachta] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I haven't done that route in a long time. I do know that EC Joe rebolted the upper pitches if you fancy a go at them.

Yep that canyon is off the beaten path.

DMT


salamanizer


Jun 7, 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #5 of 9 (1513 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 879

Re: [pplachta] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You could certainly aid "War of the Walls" which is it's origional name given by Jay Smith. It was mis quoted somewhere along the line and stuck.

Anyway, there are better options at Cal Domes for clean aid. The first three pitches of Banzai are good. Starting up Rastaman Vibrations to the Laughing Hyena arch would be a really cool aid line. War of the Walls is just not steep enough for fun aid. Would be more of a pain in the ass than anything, and you'd need many cams from 1" to 1.5"... that's #.75's and #1 BD camalots.


norushnomore


Jun 8, 2010, 1:02 AM
Post #6 of 9 (1497 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414

Re: [salamanizer] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

salamanizer wrote:
You could certainly aid "War of the Walls" which is it's origional name given by Jay Smith. It was mis quoted somewhere along the line and stuck.

Anyway, there are better options at Cal Domes for clean aid. The first three pitches of Banzai are good. Starting up Rastaman Vibrations to the Laughing Hyena arch would be a really cool aid line. War of the Walls is just not steep enough for fun aid. Would be more of a pain in the ass than anything, and you'd need many cams from 1" to 1.5"... that's #.75's and #1 BD camalots.

Second that, kind of pointless. very nice free climb though, upper pitches are fun too, just a bit run out.


pplachta


Jun 8, 2010, 4:01 AM
Post #7 of 9 (1485 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 6

Re: [salamanizer] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks for the good advice! any idea what kind of gear Bonzai requires?


salamanizer


Jun 8, 2010, 7:58 AM
Post #8 of 9 (1456 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 879

Re: [pplachta] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah, Banzai requires everything from .4" (black Alien size) to about 2.5". Bring doubles of everything. I set of nuts and a set of rp's or micro nuts like DMM Peanuts... offsets would be more usefull. The thing is mostly C1 with a few short areas of maybe C2. The old guide is obsolite as the thing has been retrobolted to death for free climbing. So the crux pitch which used to ring in at about A3+ is now mostly a bolt ladder with a few placements here and there. There is also some trivial manditory free climbing if going past pitch 3 but it's 5.7 and easier.


pplachta


Jun 8, 2010, 1:26 PM
Post #9 of 9 (1430 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 6

Re: [salamanizer] Clean aid on Wall of the Worlds ? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks again!


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook