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majid_sabet


Jun 7, 2010, 11:41 PM
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beginner trad death zone
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protect protect and more protection

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UOXzZGV1sw


scottek67


Jun 8, 2010, 1:34 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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beginner trad death zone - NEW
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protect protect and more protection

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UOXzZGV1sw


Have a safe climb <<<nice touch!


joeforte


Jun 8, 2010, 3:15 AM
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Re: [scottek67] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!


qtm


Jun 8, 2010, 6:36 AM
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Looks like the belayer pulling in slack pulls the first piece and maybe the 2nd as well.


sethg


Jun 8, 2010, 6:45 AM
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The problem is that the belayer was distracted by having to stand sideways.


kobaz


Jun 8, 2010, 7:51 AM
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Re: [joeforte] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

That works well for flat falls.... I would hate to land having a boulder in the middle of my back.

I've read previously about some martial arts fall techniques... that if you slam your arms back behind you when you fall, they absorb the brunt of the impact and save your torso. It requires exceptional timing to pull off.


viciado


Jun 8, 2010, 8:21 AM
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Re: [joeforte] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

You might not break bones, but that technique would certainly increase the risk of internal injuries. Your arms and legs are your "crumple zone" that help absorb some of the force of the impact as they bend (and sometimes break).

He might have been better off falling on his belayer. Which leads me to think that's what Majid is likely going on about... The belayer is NOT wearing the required headgear! Oh My!


sethg


Jun 8, 2010, 8:27 AM
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Re: [viciado] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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Joeforte was being sarcastic, dummies.


MS1


Jun 8, 2010, 8:28 AM
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Re: [kobaz] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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kobaz wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

That works well for flat falls.... I would hate to land having a boulder in the middle of my back.

I've read previously about some martial arts fall techniques... that if you slam your arms back behind you when you fall, they absorb the brunt of the impact and save your torso. It requires exceptional timing to pull off.

Yeah, when I did aikido they trained us to fall off to our side (to protect the spine) and to slam our arminto the ground as we fell to lower the force on the rest of our bodies. You are also supposed to hit with all points simultaneously so as to lower the pressure on any one part of your body. Done properly it could make a hard fall much less painful. But it is probably hard to land in such a controlled way when falling off a boulder without a lot of practice, and a rock in the landing area would pretty much ruin your day.


yosemite26


Jun 8, 2010, 8:32 AM
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well his nice technique didn't seem to save him there. read the description, it say he ended up with a bruised lung and three hairline fractured vertebrae. I guess he didn't quite fit into your statistic.


kjaking


Jun 8, 2010, 8:37 AM
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Re: [MS1] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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MS1 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

That works well for flat falls.... I would hate to land having a boulder in the middle of my back.

I've read previously about some martial arts fall techniques... that if you slam your arms back behind you when you fall, they absorb the brunt of the impact and save your torso. It requires exceptional timing to pull off.

Yeah, when I did aikido they trained us to fall off to our side (to protect the spine) and to slam our arminto the ground as we fell to lower the force on the rest of our bodies. You are also supposed to hit with all points simultaneously so as to lower the pressure on any one part of your body. Done properly it could make a hard fall much less painful. But it is probably hard to land in such a controlled way when falling off a boulder without a lot of practice, and a rock in the landing area would pretty much ruin your day.

The key there is practice. In kung-fu we would do tumbling exercises at the end of every day, and after just a few months, we could be pushed off a high table unexpectedly by our partner and land fine on hard concrete. Not quite the height involved in that vid, but I bet it would at least help.


viciado


Jun 8, 2010, 8:40 AM
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Re: [sethg] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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I was being obtuse just to make the poor jab about the lack of helmet on the belayer... but if you really want to try a "flat fall." Have fun!


MS1


Jun 8, 2010, 8:51 AM
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kjaking wrote:
MS1 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

That works well for flat falls.... I would hate to land having a boulder in the middle of my back.

I've read previously about some martial arts fall techniques... that if you slam your arms back behind you when you fall, they absorb the brunt of the impact and save your torso. It requires exceptional timing to pull off.

Yeah, when I did aikido they trained us to fall off to our side (to protect the spine) and to slam our arminto the ground as we fell to lower the force on the rest of our bodies. You are also supposed to hit with all points simultaneously so as to lower the pressure on any one part of your body. Done properly it could make a hard fall much less painful. But it is probably hard to land in such a controlled way when falling off a boulder without a lot of practice, and a rock in the landing area would pretty much ruin your day.

The key there is practice. In kung-fu we would do tumbling exercises at the end of every day, and after just a few months, we could be pushed off a high table unexpectedly by our partner and land fine on hard concrete. Not quite the height involved in that vid, but I bet it would at least help.

Ok dude, go practice doing breakfalls onto jumbly talus until you've developed your super-duper ninja skills and let us know how it goes.

Personally, I'd rather just place gear properly and rely on the rope.


chadnsc


Jun 8, 2010, 11:58 AM
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Re: [joeforte] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

I can attest first hand to the validity of the advice. Unsure


qtm


Jun 8, 2010, 12:26 PM
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Re: [MS1] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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"MS1 wrote:
Ok dude, go practice doing breakfalls onto jumbly talus until you've developed your super-duper ninja skills and let us know how it goes.

Personally, I'd rather just place gear properly and rely on the rope.

I wonder if those super-duper ninja skills also include moving cams out from under you as you fall. Would really suck to fall on top of a #3 camalot.


styndall


Jun 8, 2010, 12:39 PM
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qtm wrote:
Looks like the belayer pulling in slack pulls the first piece and maybe the 2nd as well.

I don't think the rope even came taut. None of the pieces pulling seemed to slow him down at all.


tomtom


Jun 8, 2010, 1:02 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
protect protect and more protection

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UOXzZGV1sw

I suspect MICROFRACTURES!


rtwilli4


Jun 8, 2010, 10:42 PM
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Re: [styndall] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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styndall wrote:
qtm wrote:
Looks like the belayer pulling in slack pulls the first piece and maybe the 2nd as well.

I don't think the rope even came taut. None of the pieces pulling seemed to slow him down at all.

Yea I don't think the belayer would have caught him even if teh pro held. What a joke.


shimanilami


Jun 8, 2010, 11:16 PM
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I couldn't help but laugh when I saw that. Does that make me a bad person?

As for falling technique, my parents always dropped me directly onto my head. These days, I fall on my head regularly, and I don't even notice it.

What happened?


jeepnphreak


Jun 9, 2010, 8:17 AM
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Re: [joeforte] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

Yes but you still risk landing on your nut tool.


qtm


Jun 9, 2010, 9:15 AM
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styndall wrote:
qtm wrote:
Looks like the belayer pulling in slack pulls the first piece and maybe the 2nd as well.

I don't think the rope even came taut. None of the pieces pulling seemed to slow him down at all.

Just as the leader starts to fall, the belayer takes up slack. You can see the rope running straight at that point, so he zippered out the first piece, maybe the 2nd as well. But yeah, the climber never weights the rope. No idea where the third piece might have been.


majid_sabet


Jun 9, 2010, 9:20 AM
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Re: [qtm] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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qtm wrote:
styndall wrote:
qtm wrote:
Looks like the belayer pulling in slack pulls the first piece and maybe the 2nd as well.

I don't think the rope even came taut. None of the pieces pulling seemed to slow him down at all.

Just as the leader starts to fall, the belayer takes up slack. You can see the rope running straight at that point, so he zippered out the first piece, maybe the 2nd as well. But yeah, the climber never weights the rope. No idea where the third piece might have been.

looks like there is only one piece


ClimbClimb


Jun 10, 2010, 11:47 AM
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shimanilami wrote:
I couldn't help but laugh when I saw that. Does that make me a bad person?
Yes, or at least at risk of becoming a bad person.


joeforte


Jun 13, 2010, 6:47 AM
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jeepnphreak wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

Yes but you still risk landing on your nut tool.

Nut tools, large cams and hexes should be racked on the sides if using the "backflop" technique. Only draws and slings should be racked behind you.


majid_sabet


Jun 13, 2010, 7:52 AM
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Re: [joeforte] beginner trad death zone [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Nice landing technique though. if you land perfectly flat on your back, and all points hit at the exact same time, there is little chance of breaking any bones since the force is distributed over such a large area!

Yes but you still risk landing on your nut tool.

Nut tools, large cams and hexes should be racked on the sides if using the "backflop" technique. Only draws and slings should be racked behind you.

how do you rack up?

nut first, cam first, cams on one side nut on the other or what?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 13, 2010, 6:56 PM)

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