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Update: Sport Climbing in New York
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HikenFool


Sep 10, 2009, 7:41 AM
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Update: Sport Climbing in New York  (North_America: United_States: New_York)
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After starting a post asking if there is any good sport climbing in New York I had mixed answers. Some said heck no there are no bolted routes to be found. we don't believe in that stuff. Some said yes there are new routes going up in the Adirondacks that are enough to fill a weekend. I decided to take the chance and give the Adirondacks a shot bringing with me only 12 QD's. I would have to say that I had a very full weekend of pleasurable single pitch climbing. First spot I went to was called Spanky's area. I did not enjoy this climbing much mainly because the style was new to me. The second day I spent at Beaver Brook. I had a blast at this very well bolted and moderate difficulty crag. I will return to the Adirondacks in the future whether I have acquired a rack or not. I just wanted to let all know that even thought the Adirondacks is mainly a trad area some sport routes are sneaking in.

Here is do the beauty of the Dacks!


c4c


Sep 14, 2009, 5:53 AM
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Re: [HikenFool] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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Glad you had a good time.


dancorbett


Jun 8, 2010, 1:58 PM
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Did you rely on the Adirondack Rock book? Or did you just wing it?


HikenFool


Jun 9, 2010, 5:16 AM
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Re: [dancorbett] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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Didn't purchase the book. I used the knowledge of everybody around those parts. Worked out well but will buy the book next time I go. Good luck!


healyje


Jun 9, 2010, 9:22 AM
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Re: [HikenFool] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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The sport climbing in NY is in CT.


HikenFool


Jun 9, 2010, 9:42 AM
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Re: [healyje] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
The sport climbing in NY is in CT.

I am pretty confused of what you just did there.


rtwilli4


Jun 9, 2010, 10:13 AM
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I know of a bolted cliff somewhere in the southern Daks. Few good 10's. I'll ask a friend...


c4c


Jun 10, 2010, 5:37 AM
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Re: [HikenFool] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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HikenFool wrote:
healyje wrote:
The sport climbing in NY is in CT.

I am pretty confused of what you just did there.

all of KN's routes in NY have been retrobolted


cfnubbler


Jun 10, 2010, 5:59 AM
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Re: [c4c] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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c4c wrote:
HikenFool wrote:
healyje wrote:
The sport climbing in NY is in CT.

I am pretty confused of what you just did there.

all of KN's routes in NY have been retrobolted

No, actually they haven't. Some have, I'm sure, but I can think of many on the upper tiers of Poko alone that are just as he left them after the FA. Some are great, some are junk, but they have not been retrobolted.

Besides, why anyone would come to the Adirondacks as a destination for sport climbing is beyond me....I LOVE climbing in the Adks, but would never bother purely for the sport climbing.


HikenFool


Jun 10, 2010, 7:21 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
Besides, why anyone would come to the Adirondacks as a destination for sport climbing is beyond me....I LOVE climbing in the Adks, but would never bother purely for the sport climbing.

I went to the Dacks for sport climbing only because I was visiting family right down the street and all I had for a rack at the time was a set of quickdraws. I did find enough climbs to make me happy for a couple of days. Would I make the long trip to the Dacks for sport climbing alone? No, I would have to invest into a rack in order to tap the potential of the Adirondacks.


cfnubbler


Jun 10, 2010, 7:25 AM
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Re: [HikenFool] Update: Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
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HikenFool wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Besides, why anyone would come to the Adirondacks as a destination for sport climbing is beyond me....I LOVE climbing in the Adks, but would never bother purely for the sport climbing.

I went to the Dacks for sport climbing only because I was visiting family right down the street and all I had for a rack at the time was a set of quickdraws. I did find enough climbs to make me happy for a couple of days. Would I make the long trip to the Dacks for sport climbing alone? No, I would have to invest into a rack in order to tap the potential of the Adirondacks.

Understood, and my comment wasn't intended as criticism. In fact, it sounds as though we agree: While there is some good sportclimbing in the Adirondacks, there is hardly enough of it to consider the Adks as a destination for sport routes. Now if one has a rack, the situation is a bit different...

Cheers,

Nubbler


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