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jape


Jun 13, 2010, 8:14 AM
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Darkside accident
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RRG doesn't really go into what happened in terms of this accident. Previous thread locked. Tragic ending to all this. So what happened...? This has personal relevance as I frequently sport climb at the Red and most everyone considers clipping bolts "safe"...


majid_sabet


Jun 13, 2010, 9:06 AM
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Re: [jape] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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jape wrote:
RRG doesn't really go into what happened in terms of this accident. Previous thread locked. Tragic ending to all this. So what happened...? This has personal relevance as I frequently sport climb at the Red and most everyone considers clipping bolts "safe"...

add link so we know what you are talking about


jjhellstrom


Jun 13, 2010, 9:25 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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If you 'consider' any type of climbing as "safe" you are making a very poor assumption.
Also, could be the thread is locked in RRC for a reason??


jape


Jun 13, 2010, 2:09 PM
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Darkside accident [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2321037;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread




Obviously, climbing is inherently dangerous. But come on, use some common sense. Dying on a 5.13 sport route is not "normal" in the parameters of climbing accidents....

Wutever, I'm just trying to get some information...blown clip, belay error, skipping bolt, who knows.


edge


Jun 13, 2010, 2:12 PM
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Re: [jape] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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jape wrote:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread




Obviously, climbing is inherently dangerous. But come on, use some common sense. Dying on a 5.13 sport route is not "normal" in the parameters of climbing accidents....

Wutever, I'm just trying to get some information...blown clip, belay error, skipping bolt, who knows.

Clicky


patto


Jun 13, 2010, 4:50 PM
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Re: [jape] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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This is the reason why I don't think accident threads should be locked simply because people are discussing the accident.

People withheld information at the time and post the event it doesn't even get discussed.

Ask user: lena_chita
She implied that she knew more information.

We have gotten to the stage where even Mike's grandfather is looking for more information online.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...ccident&start=90


(This post was edited by patto on Jun 13, 2010, 6:37 PM)


bigjonnyc


Jun 15, 2010, 8:12 AM
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Re: [patto] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?


sidepull


Jun 15, 2010, 8:35 AM
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Re: [bigjonnyc] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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weird


blondgecko
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Jun 15, 2010, 5:15 PM
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Re: [bigjonnyc] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.


majid_sabet


Jun 15, 2010, 6:02 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

even when they do, you are ready to shut things down just because you do not like the harsh content.


patto


Jun 15, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

Hey. Smile

There was considerable debate in the last thread concerning this. You can see my posts and others regarding this matter.

EDIT: Oh you shut the last thread down. Then you should know and understand the issue.


To summerise. Of course there is no obligation for anybody to talk about the accident. However actively repressing infomation when it is fresh in peoples minds is counterproductive. Furthermore coming into threads to post that you know stuff but your not telling seems kinda petty.

Take the recent analysis of the Kaymoor incident. Details were discuss issue were learnt and reinforced and it may save a life in the future. Discussion certainly has a place beyond morbid curiousity.

We now have family members looking for an thorough explanation online but coming up short.


(This post was edited by patto on Jun 15, 2010, 6:54 PM)


blondgecko
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Jun 15, 2010, 8:41 PM
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Re: [patto] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

Hey. Smile

There was considerable debate in the last thread concerning this. You can see my posts and others regarding this matter.

EDIT: Oh you shut the last thread down. Then you should know and understand the issue.


To summerise. Of course there is no obligation for anybody to talk about the accident. However actively repressing infomation when it is fresh in peoples minds is counterproductive. Furthermore coming into threads to post that you know stuff but your not telling seems kinda petty.

Take the recent analysis of the Kaymoor incident. Details were discuss issue were learnt and reinforced and it may save a life in the future. Discussion certainly has a place beyond morbid curiousity.

We now have family members looking for an thorough explanation online but coming up short.

What information was "actively repressed"? The only thing that was repressed in that thread was the same thing that led to it being locked - rampant speculation by people who weren't there.

The only people who know anything about the accident are the belayer and anyone who he confided in - and as far as I'm aware, that doesn't include anyone here.


marc801


Jun 15, 2010, 9:17 PM
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Re: [patto] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

Hey. Smile

There was considerable debate in the last thread concerning this. You can see my posts and others regarding this matter.

EDIT: Oh you shut the last thread down. Then you should know and understand the issue.


To summerise. Of course there is no obligation for anybody to talk about the accident. However actively repressing infomation when it is fresh in peoples minds is counterproductive. Furthermore coming into threads to post that you know stuff but your not telling seems kinda petty.

Take the recent analysis of the Kaymoor incident. Details were discuss issue were learnt and reinforced and it may save a life in the future. Discussion certainly has a place beyond morbid curiousity.

We now have family members looking for an thorough explanation online but coming up short.
You have zero say in what does or does not get posted in a public forum by those involved. What you think does not matter.


majid_sabet


Jun 15, 2010, 10:04 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
patto wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

Hey. Smile

There was considerable debate in the last thread concerning this. You can see my posts and others regarding this matter.

EDIT: Oh you shut the last thread down. Then you should know and understand the issue.


To summerise. Of course there is no obligation for anybody to talk about the accident. However actively repressing infomation when it is fresh in peoples minds is counterproductive. Furthermore coming into threads to post that you know stuff but your not telling seems kinda petty.

Take the recent analysis of the Kaymoor incident. Details were discuss issue were learnt and reinforced and it may save a life in the future. Discussion certainly has a place beyond morbid curiousity.

We now have family members looking for an thorough explanation online but coming up short.

What information was "actively repressed"? The only thing that was repressed in that thread was the same thing that led to it being locked - rampant speculation by people who weren't there.

The only people who know anything about the accident are the belayer and anyone who he confided in - and as far as I'm aware, that doesn't include anyone here.

this is true in every case however, there are others who have access and in some case by far more information that you could ever imagine. still, all information should be left alone in public forum.


patto


Jun 15, 2010, 10:11 PM
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Re: [marc801] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
You have zero say in what does or does not get posted in a public forum by those involved. What you think does not matter.

Nobody is suggesting otherwise marc. What I think matters as much as what you think. It is a public forum with limitted censorship. I can choose only what I say not what others say. That is fairly obvious.

I have chosen to express my view on this matter.


jomagam


Jun 15, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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In reply to:
They are under no obligation to share anything.

I actually feel there is a moral obligation to do so after a period of grieving. I hope everyone is coping as well as possible.


bigjonnyc


Jun 16, 2010, 7:08 AM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
The only people who know anything about the accident are the belayer and anyone who he confided in - and as far as I'm aware, that doesn't include anyone here.

This incident involved a death, from which I surmise that a police report was taken from those involved, and that an investigation, albeit likely short, was carried out. All I was wondering was if the findings of this investigation had been made public. I was not, in any way, demanding information from anyone directly related to the accident, as I had assumed any pertinent information had already been passed on to someone less emotionally involved.

Your responses, blondgecko, are unneeded and entirely counterproductive. Those involved do not need to you to play the part of their protector. Likewise, you easily could have made the point you were trying to without taking such a defensive and incendiary tone.


billl7


Jun 16, 2010, 7:41 AM
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bigjonnyc wrote:
Your responses, blondgecko, are unneeded and entirely counterproductive. Those involved do not need to you to play the part of their protector. Likewise, you easily could have made the point you were trying to without taking such a defensive and incendiary tone.

That's not my take on the above exchange. The response was in equal measure to the innuendo. In a couple words: even handed.

Obviously, I do think this site needs to sometimes stand between subjects of threads who are suffering and us onlookers. It may not be perfect but it needs to be looked after in the name of decentness.

Bill L


bigjonnyc


Jun 16, 2010, 7:49 AM
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billl7 wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Your responses, blondgecko, are unneeded and entirely counterproductive. Those involved do not need to you to play the part of their protector. Likewise, you easily could have made the point you were trying to without taking such a defensive and incendiary tone.

That's not my take on the above exchange. The response was in equal measure to the innuendo. In a couple words: even handed.

Obviously, I do think this site needs to sometimes stand between subjects of threads who are suffering and us onlookers. It may not be perfect but it needs to be looked after in the name of decentness.

Bill L

My apologies then, if my original tone had seemed accusatory in any way. I meant in no way to sound negative or condescending. Information was withheld, not necessarily contemptuously so, but I guess some find the term "withhold" to carry a negative connotation. For that, again I apologize.


billl7


Jun 16, 2010, 7:56 AM
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Re: [bigjonnyc] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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bigjonnyc wrote:
My apologies then, if my original tone had seemed accusatory in any way. I meant in no way to sound negative or condescending. Information was withheld, not necessarily contemptuously so, but I guess some find the term "withhold" to carry a negative connotation. For that, again I apologize.
Well said. I am probably misinterpretting your intent. This is one of the challenges of a text-based public forum.


patto


Jun 16, 2010, 8:30 AM
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billl7 wrote:
Obviously, I do think this site needs to sometimes stand between subjects of threads who are suffering and us onlookers. It may not be perfect but it needs to be looked after in the name of decentness.

I'm confused why. The thread was started requesting information and containing discussion about the accident.

If those involved for whatever reasons don't want to discuss or read such thread then they don't have to. However I don't see why that needs to be a reason why such threads are closed.


billl7


Jun 16, 2010, 8:42 AM
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patto wrote:
billl7 wrote:
Obviously, I do think this site needs to sometimes stand between subjects of threads who are suffering and us onlookers. It may not be perfect but it needs to be looked after in the name of decentness.

I'm confused why. The thread was started requesting information and containing discussion about the accident.

If those involved for whatever reasons don't want to discuss or read such thread then they don't have to. However I don't see why that needs to be a reason why such threads are closed.
I think "don't look if you don't want to see" can work in cases like X-rated movies, sex shops, a gruesome road accident, etc.. But not when it involves someone seeking to understand the death of a loved one.

Don't get me wrong - I'd like the details as well for use in my own self evaluation.


jape


Jun 16, 2010, 8:55 AM
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Re: [blondgecko] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
patto wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
bigjonnyc wrote:
Bump...

I was just looking to see if anything new was reported in the original thread and found it locked. I too have been wondering about the particulars of this incident, and hoping that those withholding information shortly after the accident had ever come out with a statement. Does anyone know of an official report or something?

By "those witholding information" do you mean the badly traumatized partner, the one who will have the scene playing over and over in his head for the rest of his life? Or the family, grieving over a lost loved one?

They are under no obligation to share anything. If they choose to, then they will start a thread on the subject. If they choose not to, then tough.

Hey. Smile

There was considerable debate in the last thread concerning this. You can see my posts and others regarding this matter.

EDIT: Oh you shut the last thread down. Then you should know and understand the issue.


To summerise. Of course there is no obligation for anybody to talk about the accident. However actively repressing infomation when it is fresh in peoples minds is counterproductive. Furthermore coming into threads to post that you know stuff but your not telling seems kinda petty.

Take the recent analysis of the Kaymoor incident. Details were discuss issue were learnt and reinforced and it may save a life in the future. Discussion certainly has a place beyond morbid curiousity.

We now have family members looking for an thorough explanation online but coming up short.

What information was "actively repressed"? The only thing that was repressed in that thread was the same thing that led to it being locked - rampant speculation by people who weren't there.

The only people who know anything about the accident are the belayer and anyone who he confided in - and as far as I'm aware, that doesn't include anyone here.

Jmo but you are a not a very good moderator for locking up a discussion, claiming "rampant speculation"

This forum is reserved for polite discussion of specific accidents. Please keep posts on subject and respectful of both the people involved and other users.

I think this qualifies and my condolences go out to everyone involved. There seem to be a lot of accidents recently but perhaps this is just the age of digital media.

... your post insinuates more than you'd think. You seem to insinuate that maybe there was too much slack out, sport loop style, something I am acutely aware of when belaying.

Once a partner belayed me off his gear loop and actually caught a short fall before noticing. Thank goodness it didn't rip. Lesson learned, and I passed that on to many people without mentioning the name. It's something that 18 years later, I still 3x check.

What of Lauren Lee, who dropped that French girl and iirc broke her back. I was reminded once again of how even a pro can totally mess someone up. Or someone like myself, a former guide with 20 years in the game, dozens of big walls and thousands of routes under my belt. There is a local climber who has twice lowered someone off the end of the rope. I make sure I tie knots in the end...but I digress.

I climb at the Darkside when I'm in top shape. I've not tried that route but if it has a dangerous eg deadly clip, it's best to know about it and even have community change it so it shouldn't prove the scene of another tragic accident. JMO...


ltz


Jun 16, 2010, 10:29 AM
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Re: [jape] Darkside accident [In reply to]
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This is definitively NOT an official accident report and, to my knowledge, none of the parties involved has been contacted by any institution for an authoritative report. That said, no information is being actively repressed. There are no people to my knowledge withholding information. So, know in advance that what I post here is a third- and fourth-hand summary of what I have been able to piece together from various sources, including the belayer, who is continuing to work through his own recollection of this horrific accident. I know that the people involved in the fall and rescue intend to contact the organizations that report annually on Climbing and Alpine injuries and fatalities. For those of you seeking non-conjecture, authoritative finality, keep an eye out there.

The bottom line is that with any ground fall, if the rope or harness didn't break and bolts didn't fail - and in this case they didn't - the error is a human one. The failures that led to Mike's fall began long before his group hiked into the Darkside and they revolve around a set of beliefs and poor safety habits that are, unfortunately, all too pervasive in the climbing community. This includes “quickie” peer instruction for lead climbing/lead belaying; an over-reliance in the effectiveness of lock-assist devices; a willingness on the part of more experienced climbers to put less experienced belayers in situations requiring difficult catches (I've been told, and those of you who have belayed on Elephant man know, that it is a tough catch); and a general ambivalence toward the use of helmets - and I'm guilty of this too.

The belay device used at the time of Mike's fall was a Cinch, and the belayer inexperienced at using it. Clearly, it did not engage. Reports from the site indicate that the device was correctly loaded. Reports from the site also indicate that the belayer did not have a fixed hand on the brake. So, what this means is that the device did not engage and that the belayer was not using one of the fundamental actions required of a belayer: braking.

We know that a belayer should always have a fixed hand on the brake. But this accident presents a more complex situation that requires a look at what went wrong. On a Cinch, the device will not engage if 1) the device is manually held down, per Petzl's instructional videos on feeding rope to a lead climber; 2) the device is tipped on its side, which prevents rotation of the Cinch plates; or 3) if you belay from a position in which the pull force on the device is perpendicular to the belayer. This last scenario is particularly prevalent in a lead situation where the rope runs out (rather than up) from a belayer to the first bolt. Because of the steepness of Elephant man and the talus at the bottom, the latter situation seems to be the most likely.

Just because you know how to do something doesn't mean you know how to effectively teach it to someone else. What’s more, the people you choose to instruct become your responsibility. If you aren't qualified to teach someone don't pretend you are. Send them to someone who is qualified. And, if you're on the receiving end of instruction from your "buddy who's been doing it, like, forever and is really good" - use caution. Your instruction may well be inadequate.


bigjonnyc


Jun 16, 2010, 10:38 AM
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ltz, thank you for these details. This is all I was looking for. I appreciate it.

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