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Route setting in Beartooths
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climb-high


Jun 14, 2010, 1:18 PM
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Route setting in Beartooths
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My friend and i have begun working on a route in the Beartooth mountain range in montana. This is an old school area with a rich history. i am curious about the ethics of the area from anyone that has climbed there. I am aware that natural protection is always encouraged but i know of several routes that have bolts for protection as well as anchors. when is it ok to install anchors or fixed protection. this also goes for the Absorkas. is setting fixed anchors to rappel a route ok if there is no walk off or a very involved and out of the way one. any and all advise is greatly appreciated.


brokesomeribs


Jun 14, 2010, 3:28 PM
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Re: [climb-high] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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climb-high wrote:
My friend and i have begun working on a route in the Beartooth mountain range in montana. This is an old school area with a rich history. i am curious about the ethics of the area from anyone that has climbed there. I am aware that natural protection is always encouraged but i know of several routes that have bolts for protection as well as anchors. when is it ok to install anchors or fixed protection. this also goes for the Absorkas. is setting fixed anchors to rappel a route ok if there is no walk off or a very involved and out of the way one. any and all advise is greatly appreciated.

I have absolutely no idea - never climbed there and I don't even think I know anyone who has. But good on you for making an effort to find out the local ethics before doing anything irreversible. Too many people rush out and do stupid things without checking first.


bandycoot


Jun 14, 2010, 3:48 PM
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Re: [brokesomeribs] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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brokesomeribs wrote:
I have absolutely no idea - never climbed there and I don't even think I know anyone who has. But good on you for making an effort to find out the local ethics before doing anything irreversible. Too many people rush out and do stupid things without checking first.

Wow, that's a one star post if I've ever seen one. Someone asks a question and you tell them you don't know then instruct them to do exactly what they're trying to do? Brilliant!

One strategy for gathering beta about a specific area I've used in the past is go to the area in the route database and see who is proactive enough to be entering route data. Send them a PM. It works quite well sometimes.

Josh


brokesomeribs


Jun 14, 2010, 3:49 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
Wow, that's a one star post if I've ever seen one. Someone asks a question and you tell them you don't know then instruct them to do exactly what they're trying to do? Brilliant!

One strategy for gathering beta about a specific area I've used in the past is go to the area in the route database and see who is proactive enough to be entering route data. Send them a PM. It works quite well sometimes.

Josh

Seriously? I was commending him for doing the right thing.


bandycoot


Jun 14, 2010, 4:08 PM
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Re: [brokesomeribs] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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brokesomeribs wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Wow, that's a one star post if I've ever seen one. Someone asks a question and you tell them you don't know then instruct them to do exactly what they're trying to do? Brilliant!

One strategy for gathering beta about a specific area I've used in the past is go to the area in the route database and see who is proactive enough to be entering route data. Send them a PM. It works quite well sometimes.

Josh

Seriously? I was commending him for doing the right thing.

OK, my bad completely. I think my brain is fried from work. Maybe I was skimming or something. I'm an idiot and I apologize.

Josh


brokesomeribs


Jun 14, 2010, 4:14 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
brokesomeribs wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Wow, that's a one star post if I've ever seen one. Someone asks a question and you tell them you don't know then instruct them to do exactly what they're trying to do? Brilliant!

One strategy for gathering beta about a specific area I've used in the past is go to the area in the route database and see who is proactive enough to be entering route data. Send them a PM. It works quite well sometimes.

Josh

Seriously? I was commending him for doing the right thing.

OK, my bad completely. I think my brain is fried from work. Maybe I was skimming or something. I'm an idiot and I apologize.

Josh

No worries. Cool website by the way... great TR's and training info.

And to climb-high: Sorry for taking this thread off topic. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.


climb-high


Jun 14, 2010, 8:17 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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thanks for the tip only one problem with that. really the only people posting routes there are my partner who has done the more well known and easier access routes. thanks though, i keep plugging away and see if i can get a hold of a few people i know have been out there.


.sam.


Jun 20, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Re: [climb-high] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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what dranige? most of the decent looking lines and most of the bad looking ones have benn done in east rosebud and the west fork of rock creek other areas have seen some traffic and most prominent formations have had a line or two up them. the ethic of the day was to never record routes min the beartooths to help keep the area from develepment. dirty sock guys got alot done down there and wool socks guys before them. if you have a specific place your interested in i might know, if not greg and loran at northern lights would be great resorces. cheers


dps


Jun 23, 2010, 8:21 PM
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Re: [.sam.] Route setting in Beartooths [In reply to]
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sam has it right. the ethic is not to publish routes, so it's hard to know what has been done.

if you are closer to Billings, try talking to Rusty or Joel.


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