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pacman529
Jun 17, 2010, 4:36 AM
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I am seriously considering getting myself a pair of Vibram Fivefingers, and one of the things I would like to do with them is rock climb, both indoors and out. anybody have any experience with them very much? I mean, i'm sure they are not going to be as good as a climbing shoe for like REALLY tiny toe chips and the like, but is it possible to comfortably climb in them to a good degree? and i'm talking about more than just bouldering; i prefer climbing routes to bouldering in general.
if you had personal experience with them, could you tell me what model you used?
just about any information concerning rock climbing in vibram fivefingers would be fantastic, like their strengths and weaknesses.
(This post was edited by pacman529 on Jun 18, 2010, 6:33 PM)
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jt512
Jun 17, 2010, 5:18 AM
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pacman529 wrote: I am seriously considering getting myself a pair of Vibram Fivefingers, and one of the things I would like to do with them is rock climb, both indoors and out. anybody have any experience with them very much? I mean, i'm sure they are not going to be as good as a climbing shoe for like REALLY tiny toe chips and the like, but is it possible to comfortably climb in them to a good degree? and i'm talking about more than just bouldering; i prefer climbing routes to bouldering in general. if you had personal experience with them, could you tell me what model you used? just about any information concerning rock climbing in vibram fivefingers would be fantastic, like their strengths and weaknesses.
T-weke
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Lazlo
Jun 17, 2010, 5:32 AM
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pacman529 wrote: I am seriously considering getting myself a pair of Vibram Fivefingers, and one of the things I would like to do with them is rock climb, both indoors and out. anybody have any experience with them very much? I mean, i'm sure they are not going to be as good as a climbing shoe for like REALLY tiny toe chips and the like, but is it possible to comfortably climb in them to a good degree? and i'm talking about more than just bouldering; i prefer climbing routes to bouldering in general. if you had personal experience with them, could you tell me what model you used? just about any information concerning rock climbing in vibram fivefingers would be fantastic, like their strengths and weaknesses.
They would probably work well for approach and easy slab. I very much doubt that they would work well for any other climbing.
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Claypool
Jun 17, 2010, 7:27 AM
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There is another thread about these shoes on the first page of this section.
The general consensus is that they are not good climbing shoes.
Edit due to link fail.
(This post was edited by Claypool on Jun 17, 2010, 7:29 AM)
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pacman529
Jun 17, 2010, 2:16 PM
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ok, I understand there is no doubt that rock shoes are millions times better than them for climbing, but is there a possibility that climbing in them occasionally could help strengthen your feet and legs for when you do use regular climbing shoes?
also, has anyone tried the newer KSO treks or Bikilas? they seem to be made with thicker soles which might make them better than other flavors of fingers, even if they still don't touch regular climbing shoes.
(This post was edited by pacman529 on Jun 17, 2010, 2:20 PM)
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gmggg
Jun 17, 2010, 2:31 PM
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Vibram five fingers are great for climbing!
Climbing out of bed to get a 2 liter of soda and cheetos and watch a baseball game on TV. Climbing into the car to go buy a 50 degree sleeping bag from REI so that your garage can be decorated with the unused gear you collect to pursue your "passions". And lastly, climbing back into bed and under the covers to hide your shame from the world.
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kachoong
Jun 17, 2010, 2:34 PM
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The only situation where the fivefingers could be of any use for climbing would be DWS... but climbing shoes would still be better even in that situation... the fivefingers would be more comfortable for using over a longer time and for in the water.
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patto
Jun 17, 2010, 2:40 PM
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pacman529 wrote: ok, I understand there is no doubt that rock shoes are millions times better than them for climbing, but is there a possibility that climbing in them occasionally could help strengthen your feet and legs for when you do use regular climbing shoes? also, has anyone tried the newer KSO treks or Bikilas? they seem to be made with thicker soles which might make them better than other flavors of fingers, even if they still don't touch regular climbing shoes.
No dude. They are not useful for climbing. Running in them will strengthen your feet and calves. This could no doubt help your climbing.
Have you ever tried climbing barefeet? Its like that. Too much pressure on you big toe joint for anything but large foot holds.
They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes.
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kachoong
Jun 17, 2010, 2:45 PM
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gmggg wrote: kachoong wrote: The only situation where the fivefingers could be of any use for climbing would be DWS... but climbing shoes would still be better even in that situation... the fivefingers would be more comfortable for using over a longer time and for in the water. Or you could get climbing "sandals" 
Sweet! Or that!
But yeah, climbing shoes were designed for a reason; for climbing in... not sure if there's a reason behind fivefingers but I'm sure it's not to sell to climbers.
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acorneau
Jun 17, 2010, 8:04 PM
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gmggg wrote: [ Or you could get climbing "sandals"
Those would give you some sweet tan lines. Match them up with your Tevas and you'll have some Art Deco feet!
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pacman529
Jun 18, 2010, 4:40 PM
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patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes.
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jt512
Jun 18, 2010, 4:42 PM
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pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes?
They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back.
Jay
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wmfork
Jun 18, 2010, 5:11 PM
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patto wrote: Have you ever tried climbing barefeet? Its like that. Too much pressure on you big toe joint for anything but large foot holds.
I may just have to try a pair and report back.
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pacman529
Jun 18, 2010, 5:12 PM
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jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes? They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back. Jay
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pat_o_g
Jun 18, 2010, 5:34 PM
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They would be absolutely miserable for real climbing. I have a pair, and they're great if you're into the barefoot running thing, but as an actual climbing shoe, they would suck. Perhaps some scrambling, but they're going to slip if you try to edge or put much lateral pressure on them.
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jt512
Jun 18, 2010, 5:37 PM
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pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes? They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back. Jay why would you have separate shoes for going up and coming back? again i apologize for my ignorance; since I started climbing almost a year ago i have mostly only been able to do indoor climbing, and other than rock climbing and sailing, i'm usually not much of an outdoorsy type (although i think that is begining to change at least a little bit)
It doesn't matter much if the approach is mostly on level ground, but if it is significantly up- or down-hill, you'll often want different shoes for the approach and the deproach.
Jay
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pacman529
Jun 18, 2010, 5:44 PM
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jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes? They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back. Jay why would you have separate shoes for going up and coming back? again i apologize for my ignorance; since I started climbing almost a year ago i have mostly only been able to do indoor climbing, and other than rock climbing and sailing, i'm usually not much of an outdoorsy type (although i think that is begining to change at least a little bit) It doesn't matter much if the approach is mostly on level ground, but if it is significantly up- or down-hill, you'll often want different shoes for the approach and the deproach. Jay
well I assumed as much but why is that?
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jt512
Jun 18, 2010, 6:01 PM
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pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes? They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back. Jay why would you have separate shoes for going up and coming back? again i apologize for my ignorance; since I started climbing almost a year ago i have mostly only been able to do indoor climbing, and other than rock climbing and sailing, i'm usually not much of an outdoorsy type (although i think that is begining to change at least a little bit) It doesn't matter much if the approach is mostly on level ground, but if it is significantly up- or down-hill, you'll often want different shoes for the approach and the deproach. Jay well I assumed as much but why is that?
Well, fit for one thing. If you're doing a lot of uphill slab on the approach, you can benefit from wearing a tighter shoe, since the climbing is semi-technical. But going downhill, your toes will be crushed into the toe box of the shoe, which is painful, and you can even lose toenails. So, you wear a looser fitting shoe for the downhill.
Jay
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kachoong
Jun 18, 2010, 6:17 PM
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jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: pacman529 wrote: patto wrote: They are excellent at rock scrambling though! Light and allows precision footwork. Great for approach shoes. ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes? They're shoes you wear on the hike to the cliff. Not to be confused with deproach shoes, which are the ones you wear on the hike back. Jay why would you have separate shoes for going up and coming back? again i apologize for my ignorance; since I started climbing almost a year ago i have mostly only been able to do indoor climbing, and other than rock climbing and sailing, i'm usually not much of an outdoorsy type (although i think that is begining to change at least a little bit) It doesn't matter much if the approach is mostly on level ground, but if it is significantly up- or down-hill, you'll often want different shoes for the approach and the deproach. Jay well I assumed as much but why is that? Well, fit for one thing. If you're doing a lot of uphill slab on the approach, you can benefit from wearing a tighter shoe, since the climbing is semi-technical. But going downhill, your toes will be crushed into the toe box of the shoe, which is painful, and you can even lose toenails. So, you wear a looser fitting shoe for the downhill. Jay
^^Good advice!
Also, I like to keep my deproach shoes in with my rappelling rope and an extra figure-8 so it's all together for the retreat back to the car.
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redlude97
Jun 18, 2010, 6:19 PM
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What is your opinion on belay shoes? I prefer a slipper but my partner insists on laceups
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jt512
Jun 18, 2010, 6:24 PM
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redlude97 wrote: What is your opinion on belay shoes? I prefer a slipper but my partner insists on laceups
I just stick with either the approach or the deproach shoes. There's only so many shoes I can carry at once!
Jay
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bill413
Jun 18, 2010, 7:02 PM
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Another reason for different approach & deproach shoes is when you have very tight climbing shoes. If I'm climbing in my tight ones, my feet are sorer at the end of the day and I need more cushioning during the hike out.
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styndall
Jun 18, 2010, 7:51 PM
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jt512 wrote: redlude97 wrote: What is your opinion on belay shoes? I prefer a slipper but my partner insists on laceups I just stick with either the approach or the deproach shoes. There's only so many shoes I can carry at once! Jay
I bought a slightly larger-than-average pack so I could keep a pair of plain old proach shoes for when I'm lost and don't know whether I'm coming or going.
It happens a lot 
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patto
Jun 18, 2010, 11:54 PM
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Just in case you wanted a serious answer to your question.
pacman529 wrote: ok, i know i am going to take some flak for asking this... but what are approach shoes?
pacman529 wrote: why would you have separate shoes for going up and coming back?
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