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Sports climbing in WMWR?
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miumiumojo


Jun 21, 2010, 11:24 AM
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Sports climbing in WMWR?  (North_America: United_States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Wichita_Mountains)
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We're traveling to OK city from Austin, TX for family getogether. Thought we'd try the climbing in OK and found out about WMWR. I read that it's mostly trad climbing.

Any suggestions on where we could go for some good'ol sports climbs?

Thanks!!

-Jo


Partner j_ung


Jun 21, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Re: [miumiumojo] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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Sport"s" climbs? LaughLaughLaugh


agparker


Jun 21, 2010, 12:02 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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There are not a whole lot of sport routes there. Check mountain project for a detailed description of routes. Many of them can be top-roped


oklahoma


Jun 21, 2010, 3:14 PM
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Re: [miumiumojo] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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That's a lie. There are plenty of sport cilmbs in the Wichitas. Yes, the majority of the climbs out at the wichitas are cracks. That's only because it's on something like 60,000 acres covered in granite. There are litterally thousands of cracks out there. That doesn't mean there isn't any steel put up. There's still hundreds of sport climbs ranging all different skill levels.

The guidebook is "Oklahoma Select". It just came out with a new edition not too long ago. I'd recommend shelling out the 20$ for it. It will be worth it.

And you HAVE to stop at Meers and grab a hamburger. If you don't, you didn't really climb at the Wichitas.

Also, There's supposed to be some quarry that's bolted somewhere in southwest OK. Don't remember the name. It's in the Metamorphic forms guidebook of the Midwest. I don't have it with me right now but It's floating around my place somewhere. If I can find it I'll see if I can get you any info.


(This post was edited by oklahoma on Jun 21, 2010, 3:21 PM)


jolery


Jun 22, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [miumiumojo] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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WMWR is a beautiful place. Definitely get a guidebook - because some bolted routes are not sport routes - 80 foot two bolt death routes sandbagged all to hell. I'm sure there are some safe bolted routes. Maybe locals can suggest some actual sport routes there?


oklahoma


Jun 22, 2010, 2:16 PM
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Re: [jolery] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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The wichitas isn't as run out as alot of people say. After talking to alot of people about "run out" climbs, they are talking about mixed climbs. There are several out there that the original bolter probably threw some pro in and didn't bolt sections. Baptist on a rampage out on lost dome isn't one of these. That shit is just run out. but there are still tons of full sport, not run out climbs.

Quartz Mountain is another story. That place is run out to hell. The setters think climbing runout shit has something to do with testicle size. Go figure

To the OP, how long did you plan on climbing while you were there? 1 day, a few days, camping at WMWR, driving from OKC, stopping on your way through??


miumiumojo


Jun 22, 2010, 7:29 PM
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Re: [oklahoma] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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Thanks for all ya'lls info and suggestions. Looks like WMWR is a hard one to crack eh?

We're planning to get to WMWR this next Monday afternoon. Camping one night, maybe two in the park (er... reserve). But hearing ya'lls replies, it sounds like wichita mnts isn't a good place to start for out-of-towners? top rope and sport climb seem to be hard to come by if we're not local and familiar with the routes?


northfacejmb


Jun 22, 2010, 8:33 PM
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Re: [miumiumojo] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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If you don't mind walking 15-20min, Echo Dome offers some really good moderate sport climbs and there are several cracks that end at the same anchors so you can very easily set up a TR for those.

http://www.mountainproject.com/...ns_gardens/105914624


agparker


Jun 22, 2010, 11:05 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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There are plenty of top rope areas available. I guess I don't know much about the sport climbing there. Either way, a trip to Wichita is worth it just to see the place...the wildlife is amazing...bison everywhere. You will certainly enjoy your stay there.


oklahoma


Jun 23, 2010, 4:19 PM
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Re: [miumiumojo] Sports climbing in WMWR? [In reply to]
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The other sport climbing I was talking about is called the Rock of Ages Quarry. If you can't lead 5.12 consistently it isn't really worth your time. 90% of the climbs out there are .12 or harder. No lie.

If that sounds like something that you want to hit up, it's off highway 183 in Mountain Park. Head west on road 1600. The road turns north and heads right to the quarry.


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