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bent cam head
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climb-high


Jun 22, 2010, 9:35 AM
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bent cam head
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I just got this #0 master cam and the first day i took it out i placed it in a thin crack in a dihedral. I screwed up the move and fell with my knot maybe a foot above the cam, if not less. It was a very low impact fall almost like sitting down. when my partner followed and retrieved my cam it looked like this. this was the first time i placed it and kinda disappointed that the head bent so easily. Is this cam ready for retirement? I have yet to place it since, holding off because im just not sure if it is still safe. I have no problem retiring this piece but if this is something that happens with these little piece and is still fine i would like to know. if this has happened to anyone else please let me know what you think. there is no crack on the cam itself, everything look and works fine, except for the slight bend. let me know what you think
thanks


(This post was edited by climb-high on Jun 22, 2010, 9:36 AM)


climb-high


Jun 22, 2010, 9:41 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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Attachments: cam 1.jpg (131 KB)
  cam 2.jpg (88.6 KB)


acorneau


Jun 22, 2010, 9:43 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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FYI: yes, you can ruin a piece of gear on a single fall, even one as short as you describe. If you don't feel confident in it's ability to hold then you should retire it.

(edit to remove unnecessary content)


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jun 22, 2010, 9:56 AM)


patmay81


Jun 22, 2010, 9:46 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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send it back to metolius, or call them and see what they say about it.
oh, and i wouldnt climb on it if there is any doubt.


(This post was edited by patmay81 on Jun 22, 2010, 9:47 AM)


shoo


Jun 22, 2010, 9:49 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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As with most reputable gear manufacturers, the usual course of action is to send it in to the company so they can check it out. Give them your story to go with it. They'll usually send you back a new one free. Everyone wins: they get to check out how their gear is doing in the field, you get a brand new cam back.

A little more info about the placement would be helpful. Was this a vertical crack? When placed, how was it angled?

I could see this kind of force happening if you placed it in a vertical crack, angled too far outwards rather than for a downward pull. If that's the case, it's not a great placement, and strange things can happen.


gmggg


Jun 22, 2010, 9:51 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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What was the placement like? Was the fall outward on a slabby dihedral? Might help someone in the future think about what to avoid...


gmggg


Jun 22, 2010, 9:54 AM
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Re: [shoo] bent cam head [In reply to]
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Nice GU


Rudmin


Jun 22, 2010, 11:12 AM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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It looks like it was placed with the head of the cam against the back of a crack or some constriction and not aligned with vertical. So maybe when you fell, the cam couldn't rotate into alignment. The top two lobes end up taking a huge force (hence the big gouges in them) and the stem is tweaked by the leverage of holding a fall at an angle.


the_climber


Jun 22, 2010, 2:22 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] bent cam head [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
It looks like it was placed with the head of the cam against the back of a crack or some constriction and not aligned with vertical. So maybe when you fell, the cam couldn't rotate into alignment. The top two lobes end up taking a huge force (hence the big gouges in them) and the stem is tweaked by the leverage of holding a fall at an angle.

That.... and dude took a fall on a #0 cam.


minibiter


Jun 22, 2010, 2:35 PM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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I'd probably bend it back and keep climbing on it. It doesn't look too bad.

Look at it this way - it did it's job and you got it back! If it caught you then I say it was worth the $60.

I've taken plenty of falls on my 0 and 00 C3's, they're still kicking.

Of course, the safe bet is to send it back to Metolius and have them take a look at it. If they deem it safe they'll do a fabulous job cleaning and restoring it and then send it back to you. It'll take a few weeks and cost you $5-$10, but that' s a small price to pay for peace of mind.


dugl33


Jun 22, 2010, 3:18 PM
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Re: [climb-high] bent cam head [In reply to]
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Is the action still good on the lobes? I probably wouldn't worry about it. If you're not placing your gear in line with the direction of pull, try to work on this.

If its the only gear you can get in, placing it is certainly safer than not placing it.


rightarmbad


Jun 22, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Placement produced.
I can see no reason for a manufacturer to replace this except for being super nice.

Little cams bend easy when used loaded in a way not intended, reality.


patmay81


Jun 23, 2010, 9:28 AM
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Re: [rightarmbad] bent cam head [In reply to]
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rightarmbad wrote:
Placement produced.
I can see no reason for a manufacturer to replace this except for being super nice.

Little cams bend easy when used loaded in a way not intended, reality.
this is very true. I doubt that metolius would replace it, but they would be the experts as to if it is still safe to climb on.
to cover their asses, however, they will most likely tell you to retire it.


jhernand


Jun 23, 2010, 9:37 AM
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Re: [patmay81] bent cam head [In reply to]
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patmay81 wrote:
rightarmbad wrote:
Placement produced.
I can see no reason for a manufacturer to replace this except for being super nice.

Little cams bend easy when used loaded in a way not intended, reality.
this is very true. I doubt that metolius would replace it, but they would be the experts as to if it is still safe to climb on.
to cover their asses, however, they will most likely tell you to retire it.


I am going to have to disagree... met is very good about customer service, and they will go above and beyond in an effort to help you out. Call em up... send it back and i promise you that you will be surprised on how they will go out of their way to help you.


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