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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2010, 3:23 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too.
That is no accident.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 28, 2010, 3:57 PM
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caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too. That is no accident.
I know
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mojede
Jun 28, 2010, 4:07 PM
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Sorry 'bout that, Blue--I didn't click on the "look inside" to see the actual list of climbs, my bad.
Nope, haven't done any in that book--but could certainly add 5 or so of my own FA's that would rival some of them:-)
..assuming that one likes long, free climbs on bomber grandiorite.
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welle
Jun 28, 2010, 5:00 PM
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bandycoot wrote: I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route. Josh
It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...
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hafilax
Jun 28, 2010, 5:42 PM
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Of the 50 Favorites I have done the Grand Wall is my favourite although it's also the only one I've done. I liked it so much I would like to repeat it this summer.
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hafilax
Jun 28, 2010, 6:22 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall. The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet. It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal.  Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 28, 2010, 11:03 PM
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hafilax wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall. The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet. It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Josh If you're coming to Squamish make sure you bring the sun with you.
Nevermind that. I coming, so you better have it ready for me 
Josh
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macherry
Jun 29, 2010, 4:28 AM
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camhead wrote: I've wanted to get that book for a while, definitely a cool list of routes there. I've only done two of them, the Original Route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, and Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands. I almost did the Grand Wall, but rain messed up our plans. That list does seem a bit skewed toward Red Rocks, too.
i got this book for 50 cents last year at a thrift store. actually, i bought two at that price and gave one to my favorite climbing partner. some book store must have dumped some copies, because there were five on the shelf!!!
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flamer
Jun 30, 2010, 10:07 PM
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welle wrote: bandycoot wrote: I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route. Josh It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...
There is no probably about it.....Alex Lowe held the speed record for the GT for a long time.
It took super alpinist Rolando Garibotti and a 3 times in 2 weeks effort to break it.....well smash it really. Rolo's time is fairly amazing.
josh
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welle
Jul 1, 2010, 2:43 PM
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Thanks for the info. I just did some search and found Rolando's personal account of it: http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?slc=en_US&sct=US&assetid=29179
my hips and knees just cringed reading it!
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cchas
Jul 1, 2010, 7:42 PM
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Only 6 of them.
I hate to be a boob (actually no pun intended since its on Bobbi Bensmans choice), but I thought that Rainbow Wall Original was ok at best ....maybe I was just expecting more from it. The Rostrum was good IMHO. I'm surprised no one mentioned Moonlight Buttress.
Many of the other routes are very high on my list such as, All Along the Watchtower, Romantic Warrior, Bird Brain,
(This post was edited by cchas on Jul 2, 2010, 1:47 PM)
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rangerrob
Jul 2, 2010, 12:41 PM
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You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.
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cchas
Jul 2, 2010, 1:47 PM
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rangerrob wrote: You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.
you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????
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rangerrob
Jul 3, 2010, 3:08 PM
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Sure it does Chuck! It's right there with Disneyland as the best 5.6 in the country!
If only you could see dripping sarcasm on the internet.
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cchas
Jul 4, 2010, 4:00 AM
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I saw the pool, but I was going to put "Hi E" in the bottom 50 for the Gunks.......
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camhead
Jul 5, 2010, 1:54 PM
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cchas wrote: rangerrob wrote: You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated. you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????
I was going to do High E on my last gunks trip, but I had forgotten my knife and figured I should just stay off it.
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guangzhou
Aug 3, 2012, 5:37 AM
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Wonder if anyone has made progress in a decade.
The List
Alaska and the Yukon
1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge
3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6 Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3
Western Canada
9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6
13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7
14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6
15 Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
16 Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7
17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6
18 Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
The Pacific Northwest
19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
28 Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8
29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30 Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34 Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35 Longs Peak, The Diamond V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36 Shiprock III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38 The Titan IV 5.8 A3
California
39 The Royal Arches III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40 Lost Arrow Spire III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43 Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44 El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall VI 5.10 A3
46 Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47 Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49 Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Aug 3, 2012, 5:38 AM)
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Marylandclimber
Oct 10, 2012, 7:52 PM
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Well I enjoyed Three Pines at the Gunks if that means antyhing.. xD
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