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kjaking
Jul 1, 2010, 8:46 PM
Post #26 of 38
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Registered: Sep 13, 2009
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mtkinji wrote: Listen dude, if you're mad then go take it out on your dog - this is a gear forum.
Hey, that dog doesn't understand his anger at a carabiner either - let the guy try punching the rock to get rid of stress
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csproul
Jul 1, 2010, 9:26 PM
Post #27 of 38
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rtwilli4 wrote: mtkinji wrote: 4) Mad Rock probably doesn't expect you to switch all of your rack's rope-side carabiners - these are intended more for crux draws. These are made to eliminating that extra second or two of fumbling with that difficult clip. You'll be happy you had some when you send your project. They DO work for that. 5) Easier than normal draws to stick clip - now all you need is a stick and a rubber band. Summary: You don't have to like them, or even think they're functional enough to buy - but you'd better actually use them before you pass an opinion on how they really function. The bottom line is that they can only improve your climbing.
It's sport climbing. Why would you be grabbing draws off your harness for the send...they should already be hung!
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rtwilli4
Jul 2, 2010, 9:32 AM
Post #29 of 38
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mtkinji wrote: Listen dude, if you're mad then go take it out on your dog - this is a gear forum.
I'm not angry I just think that it is a ridiculous product that is purely an attempt on making money, and not helping climbers in any way. Bottom line, if you can't clip a quick draw properly then you shouldn't be climbing.
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rtwilli4
Jul 2, 2010, 9:37 AM
Post #30 of 38
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csproul wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: mtkinji wrote: 4) Mad Rock probably doesn't expect you to switch all of your rack's rope-side carabiners - these are intended more for crux draws. These are made to eliminating that extra second or two of fumbling with that difficult clip. You'll be happy you had some when you send your project. They DO work for that. 5) Easier than normal draws to stick clip - now all you need is a stick and a rubber band. Summary: You don't have to like them, or even think they're functional enough to buy - but you'd better actually use them before you pass an opinion on how they really function. The bottom line is that they can only improve your climbing. It's sport climbing. Why would you be grabbing draws off your harness for the send...they should already be hung!
I know that's common practice but I don't usually do it. I've never left gear on a route unless I was fixing lines or re-bolting. And I generally get on climbs that I can do it a few tries, then I move on to other routes. No point climbing the same route over and over again. Most of the hardest routes I've done were either trad. or sport climbs that I'm trying to onsite.
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bill413
Jul 2, 2010, 2:13 PM
Post #31 of 38
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Looked more like 5 seconds to me.
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caughtinside
Jul 2, 2010, 9:39 PM
Post #32 of 38
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rtwilli4 wrote: 5 - Since when do you ever need anything but a stick and a rubber band?
what's the rubber band for?
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moose_droppings
Jul 3, 2010, 1:33 AM
Post #33 of 38
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rtwilli4 wrote: 4 - So instead of just grabbing the draw off my harness and clipping, I'll have to LOOK DOWN AT MY HARNESS AND CHOOSE THE CORRECT DRAW!
Why would you have to look down to know whats where on your harness?
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rtwilli4
Jul 3, 2010, 7:56 AM
Post #34 of 38
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moose_droppings wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: 4 - So instead of just grabbing the draw off my harness and clipping, I'll have to LOOK DOWN AT MY HARNESS AND CHOOSE THE CORRECT DRAW! Why would you have to look down to know whats where on your harness?
he said you only need one for the crux clip. Well, if you have ONE of these madrock things and 7 other draws on your harness, you'd spend just as much time picking the madrock draw out of the set then it would take you to just clip a normal draw.
If yo guys want to use this piece of junk then go for it. Just don't expect any climbers to join you.
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I_do
Jul 3, 2010, 10:32 AM
Post #35 of 38
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Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232
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rtwilli4 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: 4 - So instead of just grabbing the draw off my harness and clipping, I'll have to LOOK DOWN AT MY HARNESS AND CHOOSE THE CORRECT DRAW! Why would you have to look down to know whats where on your harness? he said you only need one for the crux clip. Well, if you have ONE of these madrock things and 7 other draws on your harness, you'd spend just as much time picking the madrock draw out of the set then it would take you to just clip a normal draw. If yo guys want to use this piece of junk then go for it. Just don't expect any climbers to join you.
You are right because it is unpossible to know where you racked it without looking.
I'd like one for stick clip functions, of the things I need to improve in my climbing saving a second or so clipping the crux is very low on my list somewhere below not stepping on an ant nest before my next attempt.
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Ohjolt2
Jul 9, 2010, 2:55 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: Aug 28, 2009
Posts: 2
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I actually got a couple of these in the mail yesterday.
They looked interesting on the site and i was allready ordering a bunch of biners anyway.
Initial impressions:
These are well made, the fit and finish is better than i expected. The mechanism is solid and it is a nice biner overall regardless of the trigger wire.
The trigger wire itself isn't flimsy and has a good spring to hold it out of the way.
The first thing i did was see how hard you have to hit it to get it to release. It will only trip the mechanism if you hit it directly against the spine (fairly hard). You can hit them sideways, top, bottom, and gate sides and it will not spring itself. I can't see that it would trigger while hanging from your harness, unless you just took an amazing whipper or some how got it to really smack the rock hard and in just the right way.
I haven't had a chance to field test it but i did some mock clipping in the living room and it snaps shut the instant the rope touches it, of you clip it on a bolt.
You can also work it with one hand fairly easily.
You guys can argue the usefulness of this thing all day, i will stay out of that, but i will say that it is well made and it stays open when you want it to.
jake
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MS1
Jul 9, 2010, 9:46 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560
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I_do wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: 4 - So instead of just grabbing the draw off my harness and clipping, I'll have to LOOK DOWN AT MY HARNESS AND CHOOSE THE CORRECT DRAW! Why would you have to look down to know whats where on your harness? he said you only need one for the crux clip. Well, if you have ONE of these madrock things and 7 other draws on your harness, you'd spend just as much time picking the madrock draw out of the set then it would take you to just clip a normal draw. If yo guys want to use this piece of junk then go for it. Just don't expect any climbers to join you. You are right because it is unpossible to know where you racked it without looking. I'd like one for stick clip functions, of the things I need to improve in my climbing saving a second or so clipping the crux is very low on my list somewhere below not stepping on an ant nest before my next attempt.
The stick clip function seems even less useful than the crux clip use. If you find it hard to stick clip using a regular biner than you are doing it wrong.
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ColinCunningham
Jun 13, 2012, 4:00 PM
Post #38 of 38
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Registered: Jun 13, 2012
Posts: 1
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Wellll.... Seems like everyone has the same question here, and I did too, so I did some digging. As to the whole "staying racked while climbing thing" I found this video and I can now say that I will have a few. I also picked one up and tried to slam it closed, it takes a significant amount of force in any direction for it to close, except the trigger. I dropped it from my head height at 6 feet and it still stayed open as well. But check out the video.
http://vimeo.com/9792152
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