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Defective Holds
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jbk641


Jul 6, 2010, 1:08 AM
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Defective Holds
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I just removed a rock candy hold that seems to have decomposed for lack of a better word. It started to swell around the hole on the wall side, then it just started splitting apart internally...its the damndest thing...Anyone know what causes this??


ax


Jul 6, 2010, 4:48 PM
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Re: [jbk641] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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All of our old (one particular companies who's name I won't mention (not R.Candy)) holds eventually blow-out. Because they use lot's of fillers in their mix, the material under the washer eventually compresses and deforms, and the hold sometimes warp too. You can see it as a space/gap forms above the washer. Not sure about their new mix (if they have one) but we've had to retire hundreds of their holds over the last few years.

Could also be heat.. (polyurethane is really not very heat resistant)
Are the hold(s) in a hot shed... direct sunlight?

Could also be a bad mix (mfg. issue/defect, bad batch of chems, etc.)

Or maybe you're just squeezing it too hard. (lol ... jk)

Call up Nathan at R.Candy and let 'em know. I'm sure he'll offer some suggestions ... and/or a replacement. Smile I'd bet he'd would much rather hear it from you than stumble across it on an Internet forum. And he'd be able to help you with that better than anyone else here ...


('cept for maybe me that is) Wink

If anything like that every happened to any of our holds we'd certainly want to hear about it... in detail... and...
make it right / hook you up!


peace


Partner j_ung


Jul 6, 2010, 4:55 PM
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Re: [jbk641] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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jbk641 wrote:
I just removed a rock candy hold that seems to have decomposed for lack of a better word. It started to swell around the hole on the wall side, then it just started splitting apart internally...its the damndest thing...Anyone know what causes this??


Over torquing, textured walls, age... It's not necessarily defective.


rockcandyholds


Jul 7, 2010, 3:11 AM
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Re: [jbk641] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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Sorry to hear that happened. Vince is right, give me a call or email and we will figure out the what happened and make it right.

Nathan@rockcandyholds.com
330.289.2420


(This post was edited by rockcandyholds on Jul 7, 2010, 3:12 AM)


Partner j_ung


Jul 7, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Re: [rockcandyholds] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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^^ Good customer service! Right on, Rock Candy. Smile


sidepull


Jul 7, 2010, 1:51 PM
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Re: [ax] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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ax wrote:
All of our old (one particular companies who's name I won't mention (not R.Candy)) holds eventually blow-out. ...

I recommend mentioning the company. I think forums are designed for sharing exactly this type of information so that we can make more informed decisions about the products we buy. Please share.


ax


Jul 7, 2010, 2:43 PM
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Re: [sidepull] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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sidepull wrote:
I recommend mentioning the company. I think forums are designed for sharing exactly this type of information so that we can make more informed decisions about the products we buy. Please share.

I'd love to .. but the fact that I represent another company... I feel it would be inappropriate.

... maybe I can go find a few and snap some pics ... Wink


ax


Jul 7, 2010, 3:24 PM
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Re: [ax] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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Ok that was so easy it's almost scary... and to be more fair, not just one mfg. .. also ... weak washers and poor design compound the problem. ... check it out ...

See how there is a space above the washer here...

and how the hold has deformed.


This one was much worse.. poor design added to the prob.



and more ....





Of course... keep in mind.. holds don't last forever.. especially in a place with extremely high traffic. But some holds certainly last longer than others.

Here's another I pulled off the shelf... this one lived about 2 minutes.

Just plain bad design.

So with that...
> Be careful what you bolt to your wall and pull on.
> Fillers shorten hold life.
> Structural design matters more than most people think.
> Climbing is still fun, let's keep it that way!

peace


rschap


Jul 8, 2010, 3:13 AM
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Re: [ax] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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The problem I keep running into with my setters is putting the wrong bolt in the hold, when I read your description that was the first thing I thought. Some of our holds have had the wrong bolt in them so many times it’s hard to tell that it takes a flat head.


I still can't figure out for the life of me why hold companies can't just use one or the other.


(This post was edited by rschap on Jul 8, 2010, 3:15 AM)


ax


Jul 8, 2010, 1:30 PM
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Re: [rschap] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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rschap wrote:
The problem I keep running into with my setters is putting the wrong bolt in the hold, when I read your description that was the first thing I thought. Some of our holds have had the wrong bolt in them so many times it’s hard to tell that it takes a flat head.

I still can't figure out for the life of me why hold companies can't just use one or the other.

Yeah I hate it when that happens! And if they're not even using the right bolts... you know they probably used the mucked up ones too to creating cross threaded t-nuts / spinners / B.F.PITA! ..

To answer your first question.
That last hold pictured would have been fine if it had been designed to be used with a martini bolt. The washer had less than 1/8th" of material under it and it popped right off the wall on the very first usage.
Lower profile holds (foot holds mostly) don't have the room for a washer.. and sometimes if you do design it with a washer/cap screw .. the bolt head actually becomes better to step on than the hold.


jbk641


Jul 27, 2010, 10:23 PM
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Re: [rockcandyholds] Defective Holds [In reply to]
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Hi Nathan,
Thanks for the reply but I bought them from a guy that got them from a competition. So Im not looking for a refund or return from you. Thanks for being willing to though..Nice style!

Thanks
Jason


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