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tradmanclimbs
Jul 8, 2010, 4:02 AM
Post #26 of 45
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Also a lak=ck of interest in some of the climbs. guys that can and do enjoy some of the climbs may have no interest in others. I know there are quite a few in there that would not interest me yet there are others that I drool over. Still think it's a pretty cool list after all these years..
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rangerrob
Jul 8, 2010, 12:17 PM
Post #27 of 45
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I understand what Tradman is saying. Your average recreational climber does not have the skillset to to do all these routes. When you round up all the climbers in this country, I'm guessing less than 1% would have the skills to get up all these routes.
Colin and Josh, are by no means obscure climbers. They are getting in the press, getting funding, etc. They are the cuttin gedge of Alpinism. They are in the 1%.
However I also agree with Chas as well. There are some pretyy badass people out there walking in and among us and you would have no idea what they have done. I was flapping my gums one day at Rumney and i did what I always tell myself not to do. I saw some gumby looking guy dressed very awkwardly and thrutching his way up a not so hard 5.10. I judged him before I even spoke to him. As it turned out, when I did come aroun dot striking up a conversation, I found out that the previous year he had been up the North Buttress of Hunter. For those of you who don't know...that route requires exactly the skill set we are talking about. Aid, hard rock, and harder ice. I was humbled, and quite embarrassed at how I had acted before getting to know the facts.
RR
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kachoong
Jul 8, 2010, 12:38 PM
Post #28 of 45
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kaizen wrote: I wouldn't hold my breathe on this. Hummingbird Ridge has never seen a repeat, and that includes attempts from teams far more skilled and experienced than the Smiley's appear to be. EDIT for clarity.
I find it odd that something that's never seen a repeat ascent is considered a "classic"...
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 8, 2010, 2:25 PM
Post #29 of 45
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That book is a slice of history. I also find it interesting that they considered a stunning line a classic even if it had only been climbed once. these days we conside a classic to be the climb that gets the most traffic.
The book was written in an era when most climbers were versitile in all aspects of climbing and the mountains were the ultimate goal.
Harvard students honed their skills at the gunks, cathedral, white horse, Cannon and Mt washington's Hunnington Ravine. When summer came and school was out they went to Alaska and put up new routs on big mountains.
These days most college kids in the NE hone their skills @ rumny with dreams of going to to Tailand to live in a bungalo for 6 weeks and smoke bales of weed while cranking limestone over bad bolts.
There are still a lot of real climbers out there but I venture a guess that they are in the minority..
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dynosore
Jul 8, 2010, 2:47 PM
Post #30 of 45
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tradman, that is an insightful post.
I may never climb 5.12, but I sure hope to climb Devil's Thumb someday. Getting out in the big mountains is what I see as adventure. Standing in line at the base of a 1 pitch polished "classic" has no appeal to me. To each their own.
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kachoong
Jul 8, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #31 of 45
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tradmanclimbs wrote: That book is a slice of history. I also find it interesting that they considered a stunning line a classic even if it had only been climbed once. these days we conside a classic to be the climb that gets the most traffic.
Good point... I can see too that a climb can be viewed as "classic" in terms of aesthetics. I know I've seen a line in the past and thought it to be classic-looking, even if I hadn't been on it.
tradmanclimbs wrote: These days most college kids in the NE hone their skills @ rumny with dreams of going to to Tailand to live in a bungalo for 6 weeks and smoke bales of weed while cranking limestone over bad bolts.
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wmfork
Jul 8, 2010, 4:36 PM
Post #32 of 45
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tradmanclimbs wrote: That book is a slice of history. I also find it interesting that they considered a stunning line a classic even if it had only been climbed once. these days we conside a classic to be the climb that gets the most traffic.
For some of of free climbs in that book, there are many more climbs of higher quality in the same area. It has been more than 30 years since the book was first published, a lot has happened in free climbing.
(This post was edited by wmfork on Jul 8, 2010, 4:52 PM)
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 8, 2010, 5:09 PM
Post #33 of 45
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Relax dude, we are talking about a cool old book that is a part of our climbing history. You got a problem with that?
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mr.tastycakes
Jul 8, 2010, 6:53 PM
Post #34 of 45
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Deep water soloing and smoking bales of weed for 6 weeks in Thailand sounds much better than freezing my balls off in Nowhere, Alaska.
Aww schucks, I guess I'll never be a real climber.
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 8, 2010, 7:23 PM
Post #35 of 45
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Ya, Real climbers take those Thiland beach party trips to wind down and relax after the crazy new bigwall in Kashmir...
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wmfork
Jul 8, 2010, 7:27 PM
Post #36 of 45
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Relax dude, we are talking about a cool old book that is a part of our climbing history. You got a problem with that? |
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olderic
Jul 8, 2010, 8:56 PM
Post #37 of 45
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wmfork wrote: tradmanclimbs wrote: Relax dude, we are talking about a cool old book that is a part of our climbing history. You got a problem with that? I'm not the one preaching "real" climbing (which by your definition means a lot of mountaineering, mixed climbing & aid) in a free climbing forum.
I think most trad climbers are much more likely to be well rounded and pursueing alpine, ice and aid - much more then you give them credit for. Some cockamaney definition that involves "free" climbing and dosen't include pins is not really where its at. Unless you are some noob who just bought a couple of shiney cams and is out to show that trad is rad.
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wmfork
Jul 8, 2010, 9:28 PM
Post #38 of 45
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olderic wrote: I think most trad climbers are much more likely to be well rounded and pursueing alpine, ice and aid - much more then you give them credit for.
olderic wrote: Some cockamaney definition that involves "free" climbing and dosen't include pins is not really where its at.
olderic wrote: Unless you are some noob who just bought a couple of shiney cams and is out to show that trad is rad. |
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 8, 2010, 9:57 PM
Post #39 of 45
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STFU NoooooB real climbers know how to swing a hammer
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 9, 2010, 12:55 AM
Post #40 of 45
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Sorry, i could not resist that
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 9, 2010, 2:44 AM
Post #42 of 45
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It was a joke .... I am sure you are strong like bull but you are obviously uptight as well. We were talking about some cool ancient history here and you jump in and belittle the climbs over ethics so i gave you some wise assed remarks meant as a joke. WTF were you thinking anyways? that shit came out of left field...
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olderic
Jul 9, 2010, 1:33 PM
Post #43 of 45
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I think "smart like bull" might be more descriptive. Seems quite confused regarding the correlation of fixed gear and aid and free. Or fixed gear related to trad or sport. Presumably is one of those that think bolted 5.9's in the Meadows (that would be Tuolumne not Rumney - as any trad climber would know) must be easy sport climbs. Probably thinks "ground up" refers to pepper.
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wmfork
Jul 9, 2010, 5:08 PM
Post #44 of 45
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olderic wrote: Presumably is one of those that think bolted 5.9's in the Meadows (that would be Tuolumne not Rumney - as any trad climber would know) must be easy sport climbs. Probably thinks "ground up" refers to pepper. |
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builttospill
Jul 12, 2010, 6:10 PM
Post #45 of 45
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wmfork wrote: olderic wrote: Presumably is one of those that think bolted 5.9's in the Meadows (that would be Tuolumne not Rumney - as any trad climber would know) must be easy sport climbs. Probably thinks "ground up" refers to pepper. That reminds me of when I was in Alaska and a kayak guide told us about a couple from San Francisco that kept referring themselves as from "the bay area". 5.9? yawn, what year is it again? On second thought, you are the same guy who wants to inject you ethic 2 cents on Vedauwoo to Justin and John, why did I even bother to reply?
Why is that funny? Because someone chose to refer to their home by a major geographical feature and incredibly common name which is accepted near-universally and is only ambiguous to some literal-minded jackass because there happens to be multiple "bays" in the world? Someone better tell the people on the "Gulf Coast" that they're amusing to all the people that live in Saudi Arabia, Somalia and Iran. And all the people that say they live on the "East Coast," well, they're hilarious to all of East Africa, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina and a good chunk of Asia too.
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