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Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville
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Dip


Jul 9, 2010, 2:58 PM
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Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: Roped_Climbing: New_River_Gorge_Region: Gauley_River___Tributaries__Summersville_: Summersville_Lake)
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So i'm headed to the New this Sunday, and i'm pretty damn psyched about it. I've been solid on 11's for about a year now, and although there's still a few of those i'd like to clean up from my last trip down this past october, i was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a first 5.12. Not even necessarily a soft 12a, but a good one (or more) to work on and see how it goes. I know this question is arbitrary and there will be some different answers, based on personal preference, etc, and i'm assuming the new guide has the good ones highlighted, but i'm asking for your favorite. Suggestions?


Edit for poor grammar


(This post was edited by Dip on Jul 9, 2010, 5:22 PM)


cclarke


Jul 9, 2010, 8:33 PM
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Re: [Dip] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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Stratagem at the Bridge Buttress is a cool route but it is on the border of 11+/12a.

Freaky Stylee is fun with a short thin but powerful crux.

You have tons of options depending on what style you like to climb.

Shade might be a big factor to consider . . .


Dip


Jul 9, 2010, 8:46 PM
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Re: [cclarke] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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No doubt it'll be warm, although i think it's supposed to be better than it has been this past week. I think i saw 80 for Sunday. Regardless of that, shade would be ideal.


joeforte


Jul 10, 2010, 5:19 AM
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Re: [Dip] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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Under the milky way is 11.d if I remember, but awesome thin climbing up an Arete.

Mensa is a beautiful crimpy face climb at somewhere around 12.a.

Are you specifically chasing 5.12, or just looking for good climbs around that level?


camhead


Jul 10, 2010, 6:13 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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Team Machine at Bridge Buttress is my favorite. Very techy slab with a defined crux, a tiny bit heady, and great position.

Honorable mention would go to Fall Line at Fern Buttress (enduro), Pockets of Resistance at Rico (bouldery), and Push at the Meadow's First Buttress (a bit of everything).


RyanJames1984


Jul 10, 2010, 6:19 AM
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Re: [Dip] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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As someone mentioned, Under the Milkey Way is a great climb at Summersville. Although only 11d, it defines the word "classic." Another really fun one at Summersville is Narcisus (wrong spelling).

If you are around Kaymor, you should check out Out of the Bag (once rated 11c, more like 12a - guide book suggests 11d) and also Lost Souls, perfect rock and great movement.

The one I recommend most though, and my favorite 12a at the New, is Psycho Wrangler at Cotton Top. I rarely give five stars to any climb but that one deserves every one! Definitely a classic!

Being the New however, almost any climb you get on is going to be classic. Have fun!
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Dip


Jul 10, 2010, 8:07 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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More good climbs around that number. I mean, i'm trying not to chase numbers, but at the same time i'd like to come home wednesday having at least tried (and ideally sent) something harder than i have before. You're not the first person to recommend mensa. I might check that out.

On a side note, if things work out that i have a free weekend i'm going to try to attend your boxcar trail day in september. Have to see how things go.


Dip


Jul 10, 2010, 8:09 AM
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Re: [RyanJames1984] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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YES! Psycho Wrangler. Heard about it. It's on my list. It looks really good.


minibiter


Jul 10, 2010, 8:14 AM
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Re: [Dip] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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Some that I've been on and like:

Brown Star - Brilliant Pebble at the Meadow
Low Brow - The Other Place (?) at the Meadow
Reckless Abandon - The Coliseum at Summersville
Narcissus - Long Wall / Narcissus Cave at Summersville

Don't get picky! There are awesome routes everywhere at the New.


joeforte


Jul 10, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Re: [Dip] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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Dip wrote:
On a side note, if things work out that i have a free weekend i'm going to try to attend your boxcar trail day in september. Have to see how things go.

Definitely try to attend. There are a lot of good routes there you will enjoy. We won't just be cleaning ya know...


Dip


Jul 10, 2010, 12:34 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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yeah i've been there a couple times, though it's been a while. It's actually where i did my first gear lead, scary as that place is for that. If i can get someone to watch my kid for the day i'm in.


Partner j_ung


Jul 10, 2010, 1:33 PM
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Re: [minibiter] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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minibiter wrote:
Some that I've been on and like:

Brown Star - Brilliant Pebble at the Meadow
Low Brow - The Other Place (?) at the Meadow
Reckless Abandon - The Coliseum at Summersville
Narcissus - Long Wall / Narcissus Cave at Summersville

Don't get picky! There are awesome routes everywhere at the New.

I just saw Low Brow for the first time a couple weeks ago. Didn't climb it, but walked away thinking it was one of the most attractive looking climbs I've ever seen. A buddy got on Brown Star the other day and really liked it, too.


Dip


Jul 10, 2010, 3:44 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Your favorite 12a at the New/Summersville [In reply to]
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I've never been to the meadow. Didn't really have it worked into the itinerary for this trip either, but maybe i'll have to change some plans.


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