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Switching from Sport to Trad
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p8ntballsk8r


Jul 11, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Switching from Sport to Trad
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I see that the general consensus is to learn from a guide or class, so I'll start looking into that. Any suggestions for good places to learn in Minnesota or Colorado?

A few questions about trad climbing that I have:

Usually how many grades do you drop when you trad? I can guess not many people trad 5.11's and 5.12's because they don't want to fall above gear.

If this is not true, when you fall on a nut how long do you usually have to work on getting it out, or does that all depend on the placement.

My next question: when you get to the top of something you are not walking off of, how many pieces do you build an anchor out of? Sport climbing only uses two, but I would say 3 for redundancy?

Finally, how do tri cam's work for trad climbing? I really like the way tri-cams work and would like to pick up a lot of them


Partner j_ung


Jul 11, 2010, 10:25 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
I see that the general consensus is to learn from a guide or class, so I'll start looking into that. Any suggestions for good places to learn in Minnesota or Colorado?

A few questions about trad climbing that I have:

Usually how many grades do you drop when you trad? I can guess not many people trad 5.11's and 5.12's because they don't want to fall above gear.

Certainly, there are fewer people climbing 5.11 and 5.12 trad than 5.9 and 5.10, but maybe more than you think. There have been times when I've been climbing harder trad than sport, because that's what I was used to. But really, it depends on a lot different factors.

In reply to:
If this is not true, when you fall on a nut how long do you usually have to work on getting it out, or does that all depend on the placement.


Yes it all depends on the placement and several other factors.

In reply to:
My next question: when you get to the top of something you are not walking off of, how many pieces do you build an anchor out of? Sport climbing only uses two, but I would say 3 for redundancy?

A well-traveled area will have established descent options, which, hopefully, won't require me to leave any gear. In the event that I'n in an area where there are no such options... heh heh... it depends on several factors.

In reply to:
Finally, how do tri cam's work for trad climbing? I really like the way tri-cams work and would like to pick up a lot of them


I don't understand. You like the way they work, but you don't know how they work? They work just fine for trad climbing -- certainly better than for, say, sport climbing. Tongue Sometimes, especially in irregular placements, they work better than anything else. Sometimes a nut is a better option. Sometimes an SLCD is better.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jul 11, 2010, 10:26 AM)


bill413


Jul 11, 2010, 2:29 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Finally, how do tri cam's work for trad climbing? I really like the way tri-cams work and would like to pick up a lot of them


I don't understand. You like the way they work, but you don't know how they work? They work just fine for trad climbing -- certainly better than for, say, sport climbing. Tongue Sometimes, especially in irregular placements, they work better than anything else. Sometimes a nut is a better option. Sometimes an SLCD is better.

I find threading a number 1.5 through the hanger works pretty well. Wink With SLCD's, it tends to mess up the stem. Frown


cruxstacean


Jul 11, 2010, 4:04 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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In reply to:
when you fall on a nut how long do you usually have to work on getting it out, or does that all depend on the placement.

2 mind 23 sec. After that period you are obligated to leave it stuck on the route....


bandycoot


Jul 11, 2010, 9:37 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Usually how many grades do you drop when you trad?

I typically "drop" negative one letter grade.


airscape


Jul 12, 2010, 8:45 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Usually how many grades do you drop when you trad?

I typically "drop" negative one letter grade.

Isn't dropping a negative one the same as -(-1)

You add a grade?

Hardcore!


bandycoot


Jul 12, 2010, 9:21 AM
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Re: [airscape] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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Yup, it's been like that for years. I had three A2 pulley injuries early in my climbing but still wanted to push my limits. I ended up climbing exclusively crack for quite some time. My hardest redpoint and onsight stays about one letter grade harder on gear than when clipping bolts. Currently my hardest onsight and redpoint are both on gear.

Josh


sspssp


Jul 12, 2010, 4:05 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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I didn't start trying to "redpoint" trad routes until I got to the 10+/11- level. It is hard to find 5.8's that are steep and clean enough that you really want to go for it and take a real fall.

At the end of summer, I am usually leading harder trad than sport. At the end of winter, I am usually leading harder sport than trad.

I can't remember the last time I took a fall on a nut. But with a nut tool, it should usually only take a few whacks to get it out.

I usually leave one sling that is wrapped around a tree or horn. Outside of sketchy alpine raps, I can't think of when I have left 3 pieces to rap off of.

I will sometimes make a rap anchor where I have a piece in for a backup that is not being weighted while the first person raps and then remove it before the second raps.

Tri cams work great. They are fiddly to place. If you are standing on a ledge, they aren't bad. If you are pumping out off a finger jam, good luck with that...


(This post was edited by sspssp on Jul 12, 2010, 4:15 PM)


hafilax


Jul 12, 2010, 4:21 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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The time it takes to get a nut out that's been fallen on completely depends on the placement. IME, the more contact area, the easier it is to get out.

I fell 3 or so times on a nut placed in a giant flake which I was standing on while belaying him up. Took my partner a couple of minutes to get it out hammering on it with a nut tool and when it finally popped out we could feel the whole flake vibrate.


brokesomeribs


Jul 12, 2010, 9:54 PM
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Re: [hafilax] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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I'm 99% sure the OP is a massive troll. And a good one too.

Every single thing he posts is stupid, but just stupid enough to be believable.

This troll gotz mad skillz.


bergbryce


Jul 13, 2010, 4:37 PM
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Re: [cruxstacean] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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leave all gear that is tricky to remove on the route.


bill413


Jul 13, 2010, 7:51 PM
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Re: [bergbryce] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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bergbryce wrote:
leave all gear that is tricky to remove on the route.

You must do mostly single-pitch.


bergbryce


Jul 14, 2010, 10:26 AM
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Re: [bill413] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
bergbryce wrote:
leave all gear that is tricky to remove on the route.

You must do mostly single-pitch.

You must be a retard. I'm trying to get us some booty.


kennoyce


Jul 14, 2010, 12:00 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Switching from Sport to Trad [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Switching from Sport to Trad

What's the point, everyone knows that trad is just a waste of money with all of the amazing bolted sport routes out there. Save the cash and keep climbing all the gr8 sport routes.


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