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hospital


Jul 17, 2010, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2008
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irregularpanda


Jul 17, 2010, 4:13 PM
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Re: [hospital] help [In reply to]
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hospital wrote:
Will you share your thoughts or horror stories. Am I over-reacting?

No, I will not share my horror stories. You have to get me drunk first.

You are probably overreacting. Everybody dies eventually. What's the point in hiding from your dreams? There is definitely a safer way to do this, but unless you know a patient, experienced climber to mentor them both, then it's not gonna happen.


What's most likely to happen is that they will get 1-2 pitches up something and realize they have no idea what they are doing. And hopefully get down safely. They are probably thinking of doing the west ridge of pigeon spire, in which case they will run across 300 other people with more experience than them.

Or....they will learn a bunch before they get there and then have an epic, scary, adventure. And get down from it @ 4 in the morning tired and scared, lucky to be alive. We've all had them at least once.

Either way, they're going on a road trip. Let them eat cake.


bill413


Jul 18, 2010, 6:31 PM
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Re: [hospital] help [In reply to]
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hospital wrote:
I have two friends that have minimal experience rock climbing. They are planning a trip to the bugaboos this summer. Neither have extensive experience leading....even sport climbs. Both claim that there are routes there "within their limits" and that I need not worry. They think that taking the two weeks prior to the trip and climbing around new england will prepare them for the bugs. Will you share your thoughts or horror stories. Am I over-reacting?

First: Nothing prepares you for bugs.

Hopefully, they will practice some retreat skills; or at least learn about them. Good luck to all.


builttospill


Jul 22, 2010, 8:04 AM
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Re: [bill413] help [In reply to]
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They could climb the W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire and a couple of 4th class scrambles. If that's all I planned to do in the Bugaboos, I wouldn't feel it was worth the drive, personally, especially from New England.

When I was on the W. Ridge of Pigeon we only saw one other party on the route, so I wouldn't suggest counting on others up there. I hope they know how to retreat, and are decent at routefinding to keep the routes to their guidebook ratings.

Moreover, getting to the W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire involves glacier travel and the glacier can be reasonably open depending on the time of year. Better make sure they are prepped for that with lightweight crampons, axes, and the necessary skills (not hard to learn, really).


sungam


Sep 11, 2010, 12:28 PM
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Uh, Eastpost Spire? Pidgeon is super easy, and well worth the drive from NE in my opinion, the hard part is that fukkin col. There were a lot of trekkers around when I was there, maybe they're just going to have a look and scope it out before a big trip later?
Then again, if they do epic it might give the staff/guides in the area something to actually talk about instead of "embellishing" the DS situation with utter shite.


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