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boethius61
Jul 19, 2010, 6:05 PM
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Hi, my wife and I are Canadians climbers coming down to Montana for the first week of August (between boring in-law engagements - yuk).
We have about 4 days to do some awesome climbing before we have to head back up. We will be coming down from eastern Alberta . . . so kind of straight down toward Great Falls.
We climb sport. My lead limit is about 11b or c (she can climb it if I can lead it). Though, we don't mind tooling about in the 10s.
So Montana climbers . . . where should we go? What is that one place, "you just gotta climb . . ."? You have 4 days to wow us with Northern Montana's best. We don't have time to go too far South. Blackleaf looks promising.
Finally, where can we pick up guidebooks (local shops etc) for the areas you are about to recommend?
Thank you.
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dynobelay
Jul 19, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Blackleaf Canyon, everything else pales in comparison.
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sandstoned
Jul 19, 2010, 10:09 PM
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It sounds like you already know the answer; Blackleaf is def your best bet for Northern MT, assuming the weather is good. Temps near the canyon are about 10deg cooler than in Bynum, the closest town, and it can be MUCH windier. Many good routes in your range, including several multipitch routes. The guidebook that you are looking for is "Central Montana Rock Climbing" by Jake Mergenthaler. There are quite a few single pitch routes that have been put up since the guidebook, a few of them can be found at http://www.rockclimbingblackleafmontana.com/ Have a blast and follow the etiquette guidlines in the guidebook. From what I understand management plans for that area are under review, so be good.
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boethius61
Jul 20, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Thanks folks.
Blackleaf seemed good from the net search but I never trust the net only for climbing. Been burned before :( (One of the reasons I joined this community, actually. That way I can help submit stuff and help solve the problem.)
Is there a shop in Bynum that carries the guidebook, "Central Montana Rock Climbing" by Jake Mergenthaler?
If not what about Shelby or Conrad, we should be passing by both of those (at least according to yahoo maps).
Thanks again.
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sandstoned
Jul 20, 2010, 3:08 PM
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You won't be able to find the guidebook anywhere on your way down. Your best bet would be to call the Basecamp (a gear store, 406-443-5360) in Helena, they have many copies in stock and would probably be able to send you one in time for your trip. If for some reason that won't work there is some good route info here that you could print/copy before you leave: http://www.libertypages.com/chris/rock/blackleaf.html
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boethius61
Jul 20, 2010, 5:20 PM
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Thanks Sandstoned!
The guy at Basecamp was really helpful. They are shipping it out today and it should reach me in time for our holiday. Yay!
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sandstoned
Jul 20, 2010, 5:39 PM
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Cool man, glad that worked out with the guidebook. Have fun, pull down hard, and wear a helmet, especially when pulling your rope. There are more than a few ledges with loose rocks on them.
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boethius61
Jul 20, 2010, 7:59 PM
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No worries. We ALWAYS wear our lids. I snapped off an 18lb rock and dropped it 12m (36 ft) on my wife's head. That 3mm of plastic and webbing was the difference between both of us being dead and her leading the next route. Neither of us have climbed without one since.
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