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universal rack, one fits all (almost)
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majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 4:37 PM
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universal rack, one fits all (almost)
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I am shipping several trad racks out to few climbing teams overseas and since these poor guys do not have the luxury of owning every model/brand trad gear, I got the task to put a universal trad kit together therefore what they get is what they get but I need to make sure they get the right stuff so I got tons of gear ,from nuts to cams to aiding gear so here is what they may have to deal with.

Unknown rock and ice wall, from 1000 feet to 17000 feet of elevation. Climbing can be from single pitch to five pitches long. Local climbers have some gear but this will be an addition in case they do not have the necessary gear.

for ice;
5 set of ice screws
2 sets of ice axe
4 sets of ice anchors

trads

*one set of cams (10 Piece) to support 1/2 " to 4" crack (if I need to include bigger then specify model and type of the cam)
* Set of hex ( 8 piece)
* set of tri-cams
* Set of nuts (stoppers) 10 piece
* bolting kit ( 1/4",3/8" drill bits) 30 bolts and hangers
* three sets of jumars
* Two sets of aiders
*Three sets of daisy
* 10 Piece slings ( 24" each)
*10 quick draws with biners
*20 non-locking biner
*15 locking biner
* 4 pulleys
* one wall-haulaer
* 10 prusik
* 2 dynamic rope 10.2/60 m
*1 static rope 10mm/60 m
* 100 feet of webbing
*100 feet of 6/7/8 mm cord
* one 2x A5 ledge with fly
* one haul bag
* set of pitons (10 piece) with hammer
* misc aid placement gear (hook, talons....etc)

anything else I need to add in the trad or ice kit ?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 21, 2010, 4:39 PM)


johnwesely


Jul 21, 2010, 4:46 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.


styndall


Jul 21, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.

They could just hang it from a tree and use it as a tent.


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 5:09 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.

in case they need to do an overnight for some sh*t out of luck operation


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 21, 2010, 5:10 PM)


johnwesely


Jul 21, 2010, 5:11 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.

in case they need to do an overnight for some sh*t out of luck operation

Seems like carrying a portaledge on II climbs would only increase the probability of such an occurrence.


acorneau


Jul 21, 2010, 5:37 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.

in case they need to do an overnight for some sh*t out of luck operation

Does that one fit in the "oh-shit kit under the helmet" or in the "oh-shit kit in a water bottle"?


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 5:52 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.








(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 21, 2010, 5:57 PM)


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 5:54 PM
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Re: [acorneau] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I know you are just messing with everybody, but I don't see why they need a double portaledge for 5 pitch routes.

in case they need to do an overnight for some sh*t out of luck operation

Does that one fit in the "oh-shit kit under the helmet" or in the "oh-shit kit in a water bottle"?

that SOl stuff is covered and already been shipped. I just need to put a rock and ice trad kit together and send it over.


bill413


Jul 21, 2010, 6:10 PM
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Maybe the double portaledge is to have enough room to hold the gear?


adatesman


Jul 21, 2010, 6:10 PM
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styndall


Jul 21, 2010, 6:11 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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Where'd you get all the old double-stem BD cams?


adatesman


Jul 21, 2010, 6:12 PM
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johnwesely


Jul 21, 2010, 6:15 PM
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Re: [adatesman] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I wouldn't be so sure... Majid's sent boxes of gear overseas before to help provide SAR teams with training gear, so the idea of him helping equip climbers back home doesn't strike me as all that odd. And if you do a bit of digging the idea of him doing this wouldn't be surprising at all.

I know he is actually sending the gear. I don't doubt that a bit, but he did purposefully pose this thread in a way that would be at least somewhat inflammatory.


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 6:17 PM
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adatesman wrote:
More importantly, all the A5 ledges! I seem to recall them being somewhat a rare (and sought after) item nowadays.
just got off ebay for $400, almost new


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 6:19 PM
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Re: [styndall] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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styndall wrote:
Where'd you get all the old double-stem BD cams?

Got them off ebay

is there something special about them I should know ?


acorneau


Jul 21, 2010, 6:24 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
adatesman wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
I wouldn't be so sure... Majid's sent boxes of gear overseas before to help provide SAR teams with training gear, so the idea of him helping equip climbers back home doesn't strike me as all that odd. And if you do a bit of digging the idea of him doing this wouldn't be surprising at all.

I know he is actually sending the gear. I don't doubt that a bit, but he did purposefully pose this thread in a way that would be at least somewhat inflammatory.

Yeah, that's Majid's typical M.O.

Oh, and nice cheeztit.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 21, 2010, 6:25 PM)


styndall


Jul 21, 2010, 6:34 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
styndall wrote:
Where'd you get all the old double-stem BD cams?

Got them off ebay

is there something special about them I should know ?

I just think they're cool.

These are great kits you're putting together.


healyje


Jul 21, 2010, 7:12 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
styndall wrote:
Where'd you get all the old double-stem BD cams?

Got them off ebay

is there something special about them I should know ?

Those are the only thing I wouldn't have shipped; I'd have shit canned them on the spot instead as the junk they are.


styndall


Jul 21, 2010, 7:27 PM
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Re: [healyje] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
styndall wrote:
Where'd you get all the old double-stem BD cams?

Got them off ebay

is there something special about them I should know ?

Those are the only thing I wouldn't have shipped; I'd have shit canned them on the spot instead as the junk they are.

Are they bad? I've climbed on them before.


healyje


Jul 21, 2010, 7:29 PM
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Re: [styndall] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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Bad to the point of collapse under a variety of circumstances. They were a really lousy design.


adatesman


Jul 21, 2010, 7:48 PM
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healyje


Jul 21, 2010, 7:50 PM
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I bet they were cagey; still a lot of those suckers around on peoples' racks. I free climb over a lot of marginal gear placements, but I'd never climb above one of those.


Partner climboard


Jul 21, 2010, 7:55 PM
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Re: [styndall] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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More fuel for the fire-

http://www.supertopo.com/...1473&f=0&b=0

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...orum.cgi?post=937487


(This post was edited by climboard on Jul 21, 2010, 8:17 PM)


dugl33


Jul 21, 2010, 8:25 PM
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Re: [climboard] universal rack, one fits all (almost) [In reply to]
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climboard wrote:
More fuel for the fire-
http://www.supertopo.com/...1473&f=0&b=0

BITD, I took some falls on a #1 chouinard camalot and put a crack in the aluminum block, similar to the pics. It held multiple falls, and never actually failed; I didn't notice the crack until later.

(I still have an old style no 2, 4, and the .5 and .75 jrs, so enough of this worry. I may need to sell my old stuff from the extras bag to Majid some day.)


majid_sabet


Jul 21, 2010, 8:31 PM
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healyje wrote:
Bad to the point of collapse under a variety of circumstances. They were a really lousy design.

ok, I will mark those for training only so boys could build anchors on the ground while using them.

MS

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