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nicholsandrew
Jul 23, 2010, 4:52 PM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2003
Posts: 13
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Sorry if this is a repeated post, but I am surprised how much difficulty I am having finding information. Is there any one shop in the Tahoe area to check in for cragging/aspect beta? We are going to the area for a 2 week trip, mostly to crag, sport and trad from 5.6 - 5.12.
For example, I am having the hardest time finding beta on smaller crags such as True value and Luthor rock in regards to their aspects.
We would be happy to contribute to the local economy by buying supplies and a guide book or two if anyone could please help us out.
Thanks, Andrew.
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irregularpanda
Jul 23, 2010, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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nicholsandrew wrote: mostly to crag, sport and trad from 5.6 - 5.12. For example, I am having the hardest time finding beta on smaller crags such as True value and Luthor rock in regards to their aspects. We would be happy to contribute to the local economy by buying supplies and a guide book or two if anyone could please help us out.
5.6 to 5.12, that's a broad range. It would help if you specified what exactly you want to do. If this is truly your range, you won't find much above 5.11 unless you come to donner summit. If your upper limit is more in the 5.10 to 5.11 range, you'll be able to climb everywhere.
Luther rock faces west, as does luther spires. Afternoon heat is definitely a bumer there, depending on what you can handle.
Have you tried buying a guide book yet? That will be the best way to find this info, considering that this http://www.supertopo.com/.../southlaketahoe.html guidebook is loaded with an absurd amount of beta.
Also, were you planning on climbing at south lake or north lake during your 2 week stay....or both?
Also, it seems to me like you are, shall we say concerned, with the aspect of the climbing. Why? Go to lovers leap or donner summit if you want to be able to chase shade all day. You'll move around a bunch, but it'll be possible.
If you want to climb at other places that aren't included in the above book, then you'll want this book: http://www.amazon.com/...rville/dp/157540088X
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caughtinside
Jul 23, 2010, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Luther Rock: faces west, good morning shade
Luther Spires: west/south? skip it, it sucks
True Value: Never been
Lover's Leap: Faces North. Generally good summer temps
Sugarloaf: Faces South. Too hot to climb in summer
Phantom Spires: On south aspect of hill, but they are spires so you can chase shade around them I guess. I think it's too hot in summer, but others go.
Mayhem Cove: faces East, good PM shade (an ok sport climbing linkup with Luther rock if you don't mind the drive.)
Wright's Lake: Faces West
Eagle Lake Cliff: Faces Northy? Morning Shade.
Donner summit, Black Wall: faces east
Donner summit, Snowshed: Faces north
Donner summit, star walls, face east
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irregularpanda
Jul 23, 2010, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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caughtinside wrote: Phantom Spires: On south aspect of hill, but they are spires so you can chase shade around them I guess. I think it's too hot in summer, but others go.
On windy days the heat is tolerable. Often windy there.
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