Forums: Climbing Partners: US - MidWest:
Road trip to Devils tower
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for US - MidWest

Premier Sponsor:

 


DangerGir1


Jul 28, 2010, 7:21 PM
Post #1 of 24 (3029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24

Road trip to Devils tower
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

I am taking a road trip from Lansing to Devils tower the first week in September. I lead at about a 5.8 and will be doing easy sport and trad.


gillesalex


Aug 26, 2010, 8:46 AM
Post #2 of 24 (2928 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 21, 2010
Posts: 4

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Hi !
I'll be in Chicago on September 3-5. Psyched to go trad climbing to Devil's Lake again. You won't find any sport climbing there though.
Feel free to contact me at : gilles.alex@gmail.com.

Alex


yves


Aug 26, 2010, 10:57 AM
Post #3 of 24 (2917 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125

Re: [gillesalex] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Hi

Have also been looking to climb a route or two on Devil Tower. Not available before the 10-11 WE but could take one or two days off, if this would coincide with your trip. I have a good climbing experience including in Trad (see my profile).


DangerGir1


Aug 29, 2010, 9:22 AM
Post #4 of 24 (2885 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24

Re: [yves] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

I am still looking for a partner for the 5th to the 10th. I am not limited to Devils tower, so if your in need of a partner for any on the surrounding area climbs let me know.


yves


Aug 30, 2010, 5:12 AM
Post #5 of 24 (2865 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Am sending you a pm.


cornstateclimber


Aug 31, 2010, 7:03 PM
Post #6 of 24 (2839 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324

Re: [yves] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

lots of great climbing in the whole black hills area. cathedral spires brings a great time, many summits on granite spires, multi pitch. spearfish canyon, rushmore area, devils tower one could spend a long time there. durrance route a must tho. wish i could go with!


RMC


Sep 1, 2010, 7:37 AM
Post #7 of 24 (2829 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

hey DG, Im arriving on saturday 4th sept. Staying at the Devils Tower Lodge- to save $$$ I'm camping out.

Are you being guided up?

Rich
337-353-5057


RMC


Sep 1, 2010, 7:39 AM
Post #8 of 24 (2828 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

what type of gear are you coming with?

Rope?

cams?

Nuts?

Rich


DangerGir1


Sep 1, 2010, 2:34 PM
Post #9 of 24 (2810 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

I will be bringing
2 ropes
6 or so cams
1 set of nuts
2 sets plus of hexs

me

one dirt bike

2 helmets

and lots of other stuff!
Are you thinking about climbing with me?Sly
I still need a partner for earlier in the week, and I am open to climbing in other areas.


cornstateclimber


Sep 1, 2010, 9:12 PM
Post #10 of 24 (2805 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

durrance route is easiest and well trafficked route up the tower. goes at 5.7 i believe. it was a fun multi-pitch climb, 6 or so pitches. kind of a must do for devils tower moderates!


RMC


Sep 2, 2010, 7:12 AM
Post #11 of 24 (2795 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [DangerGir1] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Hell yea!

Have you read the guide book? Mostly trad- I guess there is some sport routes as well. Thats why Im hiring a guide for a few days.

When are you arriving Devils tower lodge?

Arrivial- 4th thru 11th sept

my rack- double set of BD cams
Hex's, nuts, slings, jumars ect ect ect


shrug7


Sep 2, 2010, 8:17 AM
Post #12 of 24 (2791 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [cornstateclimber] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

They bumped it to 5.8 because of how smooth it's gotten over the years


shrug7


Sep 2, 2010, 8:19 AM
Post #13 of 24 (2790 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

I didn't think there was a sporty route on it.


RMC


Sep 2, 2010, 8:37 AM
Post #14 of 24 (2787 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [shrug7] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

There are belay stations at some of the routes- either hanging or on a ledge- a double or triple rack is necessary on the the harder climbs, per what Ive read in Devils tower Guide book.


shrug7


Sep 2, 2010, 8:40 AM
Post #15 of 24 (2785 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Right... but you said
RMC wrote:
Mostly trad- I guess there is some sport routes as well.


RMC


Sep 2, 2010, 8:46 AM
Post #16 of 24 (2782 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [shrug7] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

hahah

should have used a question mark to read "mostly TRAD? :)

Rich


shrug7


Sep 2, 2010, 8:50 AM
Post #17 of 24 (2780 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

have fun, if you do Durance, try the Direct variation of it. Cool


RMC


Sep 2, 2010, 9:03 AM
Post #18 of 24 (2773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56

Re: [shrug7] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

looked at that for a warm up piece- El Matador/El Cracko Diablo routes look rad.

Rich


cornstateclimber


Sep 2, 2010, 10:43 AM
Post #19 of 24 (2759 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

when i was there i stayed only long enough for the durrance, but really wish i would of tried some of the other routes. some of those grooves were just incredible looking, and went on forever. well have a good time, im hoping to make it in oct, if all goes well


shrug7


Sep 2, 2010, 11:16 AM
Post #20 of 24 (2756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [cornstateclimber] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

Agreed, El Cracko looked fun.


DangerGir1


Sep 2, 2010, 2:30 PM
Post #21 of 24 (2741 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24

Re: [RMC] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

I can't wait to climb.
I should get there later on the 5th and will be staying till the 11th.


jackflash


Sep 3, 2010, 8:48 AM
Post #22 of 24 (2724 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 5, 2002
Posts: 483

Re: [shrug7] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

shrug7 wrote:
I didn't think there was a sporty route on it.

While traditional routes dominate the Tower, there are a number of sport routes as well. Everlasting, Fritz's Fantasy, and Buckspeck are a few of the very good bolted lines. Most of these follow aretes, are less than vertical, and rely heavily on footwork. There is one 5.9 sport route. Most are in the 5.10-5.11 range

The Tower is awesome, but anyone climbing it for the first time should be aware that pitches are long, typically 150 ft, and sustained. Moderate cracks tend to be hand size and up, while harder routes are thin hands down to seams so tight that only pure stemming will get you through. Two ropes and double sizes in nuts and cams are a good idea.

Have fun!

Sean


shrug7


Sep 3, 2010, 9:16 AM
Post #23 of 24 (2722 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [jackflash] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

huh. Well I learned something today. Cool


chadnsc


Sep 7, 2010, 9:48 AM
Post #24 of 24 (2659 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [shrug7] Road trip to Devils tower [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Private Reply | Can't Post

shrug7 wrote:
Agreed, El Cracko looked fun.

You're right, El Cracko is great fun! The 'ledge' at the end of the second pitch is a ledge only in spirit though . . . . Wink

It's more like a hanging belay with a good spot for your feet. Tongue


Forums : Climbing Partners : US - MidWest

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$17.06 (10% off)
$44.96 (10% off)
$123.30 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook