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brachialis
Jul 30, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2008
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I've been climbing for many years now, mostly bouldering, but have never experienced pain in this area. I am not sure if it's in the muscle belly or a tendon.
Whatever the case, the pain is felt in a tissue responsible for finger flexion, just below (distal) the medial epicondyle of the humerus bone, and strangely, it goes away after warming up. I've noticed this for a few sessions now (so it began only this week). Just prior I began training by practicing mono dead-hangs from my hangboard, using tips of either the third or fourth fingers.
Years ago I experienced pain (on two occasions) in flexor tendons in the forearm. No doubt whatever's causing me pain now is also responsible for flexion, but it's at the other end of the muscle (near the elbow, instead of the hand).
The pain is not at all debilitating, but it is different from ordinary muscle soreness or tendonitis, so I don't know what to make of it.
Thoughts?
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mtselman
Jul 30, 2010, 4:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2002
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The obvious first advice is to consult with a medical practitioner.
Beyond that:
Search for "medial epicondylitis" (also known as "golfer's elbow") on this forum and elsewhere on the net. Lots of info.
I have been dealing with the same problem for the last couple of month. Also had it about 5 years ago (it went away after I stopped climbing for a couple of months). The only solution that seems to work is to absolutely get off climbing for a while and try not to aggravate the condition with other routines.
If the condition is acute, then the usual RICE, and potentially some NSAID (Ibuprofen or the like) may be used, but consult with the doctor on the latter.
Then you start appropriate stretching and strengthening exercises.
Whatever you do, do not let the condition to become a chronic one by ignoring it and climbing through the pain.
Good luck!
PS. I found "Thera-Band" to be useful utilizing this excercise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtR8fYEUnXI. I bought Thera-band for about $15 - just search on google for various shops that sell it. (they come in different stiffness ratings - the green one works well for me)
(This post was edited by mtselman on Jul 30, 2010, 5:38 PM)
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brachialis
Aug 1, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Registered: May 4, 2008
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Thanks. You've got it right, I believe. Although about the suggestion of visiting a medical practitioner, I generally doubt their expertise for climbing-specific troubles, unless the physician climbs himself.
I may purchase the band you suggested. For now I'm just going to take a break from training on my board (at least on the holds that aggravate the injury) and spend more time on rock :)
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brachialis
Aug 12, 2010, 5:31 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2008
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As an update, I believe this may have resulted from large quantities of typing for work (using a laptop keyboard that is NOT ergonomically designed). Then given the monotonous yet increasingly intense training for climbing, injury resulted. I suggest this because computer usage tends to aggravate the injury more than climbing.
I'm now going to pick up a proper keyboard, decrease the volume of typing and training, and practice some regular stretching & hot/ cold treatments.
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