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waveknave
Jul 30, 2010, 7:59 PM
Post #26 of 40
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Okay thanks. I'll give it a try this weekend and see if it helps or hinders. Most of the stations I encounter are nearly identical or have no anchors at all. Hope I don't die.
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waveknave
Jul 30, 2010, 8:07 PM
Post #27 of 40
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Thanks for the feedback. I am not trying to limit extension. I am trying to fix the biners so that I can have some order in my life. I need order in my life. This dialog has gone full circle in a mis-happened way as is the nature of forum one liners. Then all the talk about wheels is a tangent that went astray. What wheels?
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bill413
Jul 30, 2010, 11:49 PM
Post #28 of 40
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wk - I'm amazed by the erroneous statements in this thread generated by misapprehension of what you are doing.
It sounds to me that if you are multi-pitching, this is ok (but see below). If you are TR'ing off this setup, I'd like 2 biners at the master point.
Since you have the 2 anchor biners clove hitched in, do you retie the powerpoint knot each time to attain equalization ( which would seem to me to be quick) or do you adjust the clove hitches?
I carry my cordellette without any permamanent knots (except the one forming it into a loop). An equallette is a bit different in terms of carrying...the two extension limiting knots tend to stay in. But, again, the biners that will be out at the anchor are not left in the system as I'm carrying it.
If you know you have two bolts as the anchor, either cordellete or equallete seem overkill - for TR off it, two draws & their biners seem pretty good.
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waveknave
Jul 31, 2010, 12:12 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Hello Bill. Thanks for the concern. Most of the anchors I come across will be nearly identical and I intend to retie the power point for those that are different. As your post brings up, I should re-evaluate each station but for most cases loosening the power point then re tightening may be sufficient. I won't be using the clove hitches to equalize the power-point. My greater concern is to equalize each arm from each clove hitch so that each strand can share the load. This is my primary concern with using this set-up. There is a potential to load one strand more than the other. If I put limiting knots near the hanger biners, this would eliminate this problem and allow me to keep the biners in place while carrying albeit not as well.
I prefer to use the equalette because sometimes the bolts are not horizontal. They are sometimes one above the other.
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vegastradguy
Jul 31, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #30 of 40
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bill413 wrote: It sounds to me that if you are multi-pitching, this is ok (but see below). If you are TR'ing off this setup, I'd like 2 biners at the master point.
sorry, i cant resist. i tried, i really did.
so, one locker is okay if you're multipitching, where lead falls onto anchor are possible, but two lockers is necessary for top roping?
to the OP: you're overthinking this if you're only using bolted anchors. two lockers, clove into each one with the rope, done. (assuming you swap leads)
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jbro_135
Jul 31, 2010, 12:25 AM
Post #31 of 40
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top-roping is the most dangerous form of climbing because boyscouts' lives are on the line
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bradley3297
Jul 31, 2010, 12:28 AM
Post #32 of 40
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you can use a clove hitch setup to set up a gear anchor. just make sure you equalize it. there is text you can find on how to do it. overall same concept except with clove hitches. I think it really depends on the situation and the placement of your gear pieces that determines which system is faster/better. i usually just use my personal anchor on one bolt and clove hitch my end of the rope to the other bolt on multi-pitch. Super fast. But depends what your doing. fast for swapping leads.
(This post was edited by bradley3297 on Jul 31, 2010, 12:33 AM)
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redlude97
Jul 31, 2010, 12:30 AM
Post #33 of 40
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vegastradguy wrote: bill413 wrote: It sounds to me that if you are multi-pitching, this is ok (but see below). If you are TR'ing off this setup, I'd like 2 biners at the master point. sorry, i cant resist. i tried, i really did. so, one locker is okay if you're multipitching, where lead falls onto anchor are possible, but two lockers is necessary for top roping? to the OP: you're overthinking this if you're only using bolted anchors. two lockers, clove into each one with the rope, done. (assuming you swap leads)
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waveknave
Jul 31, 2010, 12:56 AM
Post #34 of 40
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Damn it I like that setup. I guess you then create a power point off the rope for the belay device?
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bill413
Jul 31, 2010, 2:03 AM
Post #35 of 40
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redlude97 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: bill413 wrote: It sounds to me that if you are multi-pitching, this is ok (but see below). If you are TR'ing off this setup, I'd like 2 biners at the master point. sorry, i cant resist. i tried, i really did. so, one locker is okay if you're multipitching, where lead falls onto anchor are possible, but two lockers is necessary for top roping? to the OP: you're overthinking this if you're only using bolted anchors. two lockers, clove into each one with the rope, done. (assuming you swap leads) I think the usually stated reason for 2 lockers as opposed to one for a TR is that you can't be visually checking the lockers on the TR at all times and retighten until you reclimb the route, while with a multipitch anchor used to clip into your harness you can always reach the locker and make sure it stays locked.
VTG - yeah, this is the reason. At some point, I have to trust the biners (at least I tell myself that). If I'm monitoring it, I'm ok with one biner...if it can't be seen (or is in a not so good situation) I want two to make sure they don't come open.
Yeah - I'd rather have two all the time. But, I'd also like to have more money...given the choice...ummm....
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redlude97
Jul 31, 2010, 2:57 AM
Post #36 of 40
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bill413 wrote: redlude97 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: bill413 wrote: It sounds to me that if you are multi-pitching, this is ok (but see below). If you are TR'ing off this setup, I'd like 2 biners at the master point. sorry, i cant resist. i tried, i really did. so, one locker is okay if you're multipitching, where lead falls onto anchor are possible, but two lockers is necessary for top roping? to the OP: you're overthinking this if you're only using bolted anchors. two lockers, clove into each one with the rope, done. (assuming you swap leads) I think the usually stated reason for 2 lockers as opposed to one for a TR is that you can't be visually checking the lockers on the TR at all times and retighten until you reclimb the route, while with a multipitch anchor used to clip into your harness you can always reach the locker and make sure it stays locked. VTG - yeah, this is the reason. At some point, I have to trust the biners (at least I tell myself that). If I'm monitoring it, I'm ok with one biner...if it can't be seen (or is in a not so good situation) I want two to make sure they don't come open. Yeah - I'd rather have two all the time. But, I'd also like to have more money...given the choice...ummm....
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ajkclay
Jul 31, 2010, 4:11 AM
Post #37 of 40
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
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hafilax wrote: dagibbs wrote: majid_sabet wrote: waveknave wrote: Hello all. I am getting into the practice of using 7mm cordelette to set up my anchors for top rope and multipitch belays. Virtually all of the stations I come across are bolted. My question is about using setup that I would find convenient. Using a 3.5m cordelette, I lock biners onto two hangers and overhand knot with one locking biner to create the maser point. On the hanger end, I want to keep these two biners clove hitched to the rig so it's easier to carry and faster to set up. See any problems with this? you are going to DIE Was 3.5m too long? Or too short? Just curious... My guess is that majid somehow interpreted 3.5m as 3.5mm in diameter.
my guess too; stupid, useless and not considered or constructive criticism in a beginners forum.
Majid either be helpful in your comments or be helpful in your silence.
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theguy
Jul 31, 2010, 5:16 AM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
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hafilax wrote: dagibbs wrote: majid_sabet wrote: you are going to DIE Was 3.5m too long? Or too short? Just curious... My guess is that majid somehow interpreted 3.5m as 3.5mm in diameter.
"Prophetic opinion"?
Check
"pagan glossolalia"?
Check
"attending priest would then interpret the language for the inquirer’s benefit"?
Check
"Any inconsistencies ... were dismissed as failure to correctly interpret the responses—not an error of the oracle"?
Check
Finally, it's all clear: the wabbit is an oracle, probably of the Delphic influence, and hafilax one of his interpreters.
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ajkclay
Jul 31, 2010, 5:23 AM
Post #40 of 40
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theguy wrote: ajkclay wrote: Majid either be helpful in your comments or be helpful in your silence. Going to be a whole lot of silence then 
heh heh, if only 
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