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dindolino32
Jul 29, 2010, 4:12 AM
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Ok, I just got back from Vedauwoo Wy and got my ass kicked. It was a fun ass kicking but I found my OW skills lacking. I could not figure out what parameters I should use to figure out what arm to start with in the crack. After searching for a while, I came up with only a few parameters.
1. Look for a side with holds
2. Face the good/sharp edge
3. Whichever feels better.
Now I tried both left and right starts and they both felt wierd and crappy. The crystals were on both sides but the crack leaned right, so I put my left arm in thinking that I would have better feet. I also realized that I was stuffing too much of my body in the crack to efficiently move. Are there any Guru OW climbers out there that can give better parameters? I just couldn't feel it. I had a blast and would like to increase this OW weakness.
Oh, Lastly, dont give me the Wide Fetish Link. I already read all of that and didnt get much as for selection of arm in crack.
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climbingaggie03
Jul 29, 2010, 6:21 AM
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So I'm definitely not an OW guru, but I think that depending on how much the crack leans to the right, it's easier to go right arm in. If you go left arm in, the wall is pushing you forward and off balance, If you go right arm in, you can kind of lean against the wall.
every situation is different, what size are we talking? off fist? chicken wing? funky chimney?
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dindolino32
Jul 29, 2010, 5:42 PM
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well, it definitely wasnt wide enough for chicken wings. id say off fists. Also, I already checked out wide fetish. they gave the jamming techniques, but not arm selection. I was just looking for more info. Maybe there are no other ways for arm selection?
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johnwesely
Jul 29, 2010, 6:04 PM
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dindolino32 wrote: well, it definitely wasnt wide enough for chicken wings. id say off fists. Also, I already checked out wide fetish. they gave the jamming techniques, but not arm selection. I was just looking for more info. Maybe there are no other ways for arm selection?
There are forums on Wide Fetish.
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petsfed
Jul 29, 2010, 8:10 PM
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Which route?
Basically, you're not going to know until you get up there. Strawberry Jam is a good example of this. The first part of the offwidth goes most easily as a right-side in crack, but at the crux, you have to turn around. Fantasia really rewards a right side in down low, but it takes more advanced technique to stay right side in up high, and you can't turn around without hanging. In general, if its in a dihedral, I put my back against the wall that goes into the crack. If its not, look for an offset. Basically, you want to try to chimney the beast first, then worry about more advanced technique. Upper Slot Left is most easily done by chimneying between the lip of the crack and the face itself, while using the offwidth for protection. Same thing with Satterfield's, although you can just as easily layback off of deep fist jams and use those enormous face features for feet.
For off-fists, start straight on. It'll make the knee-locks easier.
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bill413
Jul 30, 2010, 12:53 AM
Post #7 of 18
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dindolino32 wrote: Ok, I just got back from Vedauwoo Wy and got my ass kicked. It was a fun ass kicking but I found my OW skills lacking. I could not figure out what parameters I should use to figure out what arm to start with in the crack. After searching for a while, I came up with only a few parameters. 1. Look for a side with holds 2. Face the good/sharp edge 3. Whichever feels better. Now I tried both left and right starts and they both felt wierd and crappy. The crystals were on both sides but the crack leaned right, so I put my left arm in thinking that I would have better feet. I also realized that I was stuffing too much of my body in the crack to efficiently move. Are there any Guru OW climbers out there that can give better parameters? I just couldn't feel it. I had a blast and would like to increase this OW weakness. Oh, Lastly, dont give me the Wide Fetish Link. I already read all of that and didnt get much as for selection of arm in crack.
How to climb offwidth:
- Assess crack, decide which side should be in or out.
- Arrange rack to be on outside
- Start up crack
- Come down
- Shift rack to other side
- Start up crack
- repeat last few steps as needed.
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sspssp
Jul 30, 2010, 8:09 PM
Post #8 of 18
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dindolino32 wrote: well, it definitely wasnt wide enough for chicken wings. id say off fists. Also, I already checked out wide fetish. they gave the jamming techniques, but not arm selection. I was just looking for more info. Maybe there are no other ways for arm selection?
If it is slightly wider than fist, then I usually face straight in. I'll do hand/fist stacks and knee locks (sometime called levitation or something like that).
For wider cracks, if the crack offsets, your back goes to the side that sticks out further. If it leans, face up so the weight is on your back.
Otherwise, I look first to see if either side is friendlier for the feet. Nubbins, edges, etc. Next might be if one edge is easier to grip with the hands.
Also, try to study as much of the pitch as you can to see if you will get hosed at some point from facing the wrong way. If there is a chock stone/roof/constriction, it might make a huge difference which way you are facing. Sometimes you have to face the wrong way for most of the pitch just to be the easiest way for the crux.
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evanwish
Jul 31, 2010, 5:42 AM
Post #9 of 18
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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bill413 wrote: dindolino32 wrote: Ok, I just got back from Vedauwoo Wy and got my ass kicked. It was a fun ass kicking but I found my OW skills lacking. I could not figure out what parameters I should use to figure out what arm to start with in the crack. After searching for a while, I came up with only a few parameters. 1. Look for a side with holds 2. Face the good/sharp edge 3. Whichever feels better. Now I tried both left and right starts and they both felt wierd and crappy. The crystals were on both sides but the crack leaned right, so I put my left arm in thinking that I would have better feet. I also realized that I was stuffing too much of my body in the crack to efficiently move. Are there any Guru OW climbers out there that can give better parameters? I just couldn't feel it. I had a blast and would like to increase this OW weakness. Oh, Lastly, dont give me the Wide Fetish Link. I already read all of that and didnt get much as for selection of arm in crack. How to climb offwidth: - Assess crack, decide which side should be in or out. - Arrange rack to be on outside - Start up crack - Come down - Shift rack to other side - Start up crack - repeat last few steps as needed.
Perfect!! Of course sometimes you have to hang from your feet to switch the rack... that one's always exciting!
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jaybro
Jul 31, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #10 of 18
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Vedauwoo? Like Pets said, tell us the route, or show a photo, we won't steal it, And the answer will be forthcoming, though, why anyone would do any of Fantasia left side in, is a mystery...
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desertwanderer81
Jul 31, 2010, 8:49 PM
Post #11 of 18
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My trick is to start climbing, doing whatever you can to get friction and repeating over and over in your head the mantra: I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this.
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petsfed
Aug 1, 2010, 3:14 AM
Post #12 of 18
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jaybro wrote: Vedauwoo? Like Pets said, tell us the route, or show a photo, we won't steal it, And the answer will be forthcoming, though, why anyone would do any of Fantasia left side in, is a mystery...
I've seen a lot of photographs of people either stemming to, or even reaching to the good hand crack at the end of Cool Jet. Only really possible left side in. But you can't switch without hanging, so it only happens on toprope.
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dindolino32
Aug 1, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #13 of 18
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jaybro wrote: Vedauwoo? Like Pets said, tell us the route, or show a photo, we won't steal it, And the answer will be forthcoming, though, why anyone would do any of Fantasia left side in, is a mystery...
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bill413
Aug 2, 2010, 1:29 AM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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desertwanderer81 wrote: My trick is to start climbing, doing whatever you can to get friction and repeating over and over in your head the mantra: I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this.
And you lie to yourself why?
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petsfed
Aug 2, 2010, 1:58 AM
Post #15 of 18
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Finally allows you to stem and layback on. Mother #1 must be climbed directly. I honestly can't remember which side I went in on that one, since it was just above fists and too small for knee locks (for me). Fortunately, the size was such that I could change sides often, so I ended up doing that. I seem to recall preferring right side in, but like I said, I changed a lot because I could.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 3, 2010, 3:32 AM
Post #16 of 18
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bill413 wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: My trick is to start climbing, doing whatever you can to get friction and repeating over and over in your head the mantra: I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this, I am enjoying this. And you lie to yourself why?
If you pretend hard enough, it makes it true! It seems to work well enough for fundamentalists of various varieties.
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bearbreeder
Aug 3, 2010, 7:13 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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as long as u dun poop in someone's face like this ... http://vimeo.com/13831211
lol
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namascar
Aug 3, 2010, 9:44 PM
Post #18 of 18
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Registered: Aug 6, 2003
Posts: 55
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Awsome!!!
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