|
johnwesely
Jul 30, 2010, 3:51 PM
Post #226 of 241
(5494 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
mtselman wrote: John, Thank you for your fantastic trip reports! As a regular Gunks climber I can closely relate to specific routes you describe. Yet, beyond the specifics of the routes, you managed to capture the essence of the place, the people you met and the journey you had, all in a great style. Excellent read for both locals and outsiders! --Misha
Thank you very much.
|
|
|
|
|
markguycan
Jul 30, 2010, 3:55 PM
Post #227 of 241
(5493 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 136
|
John, & anyone else;
I am probably going to the Gunks (1st time)this October with my wife. I realize the ratings are generally pretty stiff. I don't want to put my wife on anything too hard. I see you listed some classics: "CCK, Frog's Head, Strictly from Nowhere, Son of Easy O, Disneyland, and High Exposure"
What classics do you recommend that actually feel like less than 5.9?
--thx-M
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Jul 30, 2010, 4:10 PM
Post #228 of 241
(5486 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
markguycan wrote: John, & anyone else; I am probably going to the Gunks (1st time)this October with my wife. I realize the ratings are generally pretty stiff. I don't want to put my wife on anything too hard. I see you listed some classics: "CCK, Frog's Head, Strictly from Nowhere, Son of Easy O, Disneyland, and High Exposure" What classics do you recommend that actually feel like less than 5.9? --thx-M
I didn't think that the grades were really that stiff when compared to the traditional climbing areas in the South East. Compared to sport ratings, I would add two number grades for everything 5.8 and under and a number grade for everything above that.
Of the ones you mentioned, I think the most problematic would be CCK. It is definitely under 5.9, but if your wife is easily spooked, you may encounter difficulties. Son of Easy O has a pretty thin start, but it is nothing you couldn't haul her up if necessary.
Have fun at the Gunks.
|
|
|
|
|
horseshoe
Jul 30, 2010, 6:37 PM
Post #229 of 241
(5452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2007
Posts: 41
|
I went to the Gunks for the first time this June--sadly only for one day. We did High Exposure and Madame G's. The grades seemed similar to western North Carolina, but the routes of corresponding grades might be steeper. Have a blast! The Gunks are great.
And John, thank you for an excellent trip report!
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Jul 30, 2010, 6:46 PM
Post #230 of 241
(5450 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
horseshoe wrote: I went to the Gunks for the first time this June--sadly only for one day. We did High Exposure and Madame G's. The grades seemed similar to western North Carolina, but the routes of corresponding grades might be steeper. Have a blast! The Gunks are great. And John, thank you for an excellent trip report!
Your welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
IsayAutumn
Jul 30, 2010, 7:30 PM
Post #231 of 241
(5439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355
|
Good thread, John.
Also...
"The way you get sponsored is... have a beat street attitude. Treat a comp like a bboy cypher. Head hunt for ppl like Graham, Sharma, Robinson, Woods, Miley Cyrus, Lisa Rands, etc... Do a route in front of them and even if you don't send, come down, get some chalk from your bag, palm it, then blow it all to their faces and say "YOU JUST GOT SMOKED, NIGGA, STRAIGHT STREET..." Then do a coin drop to halo's to a drill head spin and top rock outta the comp."
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Jul 30, 2010, 7:47 PM
Post #232 of 241
(5427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
IsayAutumn wrote: Good thread, John. Also... "The way you get sponsored is... have a beat street attitude. Treat a comp like a bboy cypher. Head hunt for ppl like Graham, Sharma, Robinson, Woods, Miley Cyrus, Lisa Rands, etc... Do a route in front of them and even if you don't send, come down, get some chalk from your bag, palm it, then blow it all to their faces and say "YOU JUST GOT SMOKED, NIGGA, STRAIGHT STREET..." Then do a coin drop to halo's to a drill head spin and top rock outta the comp."
That sounds like, uh, good advice...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
iknowfear
Aug 4, 2010, 8:00 PM
Post #234 of 241
(5319 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
|
Great trip report. I got sweaty hands reading. It really captures some of the essence of climbing...
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 4, 2010, 8:19 PM
Post #235 of 241
(5315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
iknowfear wrote: Great trip report. I got sweaty hands reading. It really captures some of the essence of climbing... Cheers!
Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 5, 2010, 10:04 PM
Post #236 of 241
(5266 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
still not reading that! ;)
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 6, 2010, 1:20 AM
Post #237 of 241
(5247 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
jakedatc wrote: still not reading that! ;)
Don't worry. Next time we meet, you can read my blog, and I will watch that car show.
|
|
|
|
|
davidnn5
Aug 6, 2010, 8:04 AM
Post #238 of 241
(5224 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2009
Posts: 348
|
As evidenced in other recent threads, John lied to me that Gunks 5.singledigit isn't completely sandbagged. And given he's not actually the lovechild of the previously mentioned climbers, I am doubly disappointed.
|
|
|
|
|
airscape
Aug 6, 2010, 12:03 PM
Post #239 of 241
(5218 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2001
Posts: 4240
|
Hey John
Awesome trip report, I'm almost half way done reading.
I'm printing the rest out to read on the crapper. (I'm all out of sudoku)
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 6, 2010, 2:13 PM
Post #240 of 241
(5185 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
davidnn5 wrote: As evidenced in other recent threads, John lied to me that Gunks 5.singledigit isn't completely sandbagged. And given he's not actually the lovechild of the previously mentioned climbers, I am doubly disappointed.
Where did I lie? When I said the grades were harder than sport climbing grades? I have never been to a traditional climbing area with sport climbing grades.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 6, 2010, 2:20 PM
Post #241 of 241
(5180 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
airscape wrote: Hey John Awesome trip report, I'm almost half way done reading. I'm printing the rest out to read on the crapper. (I'm all out of sudoku)
Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
