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clarkenstein


Aug 4, 2010, 3:06 PM
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Feedback on my plan plz
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Hey all - just a little background on myself. I used to climb - years ago. I bouldered around the V5 grade at my best. I would like to get back into it this fall, and came up with a plan that I could do at home to "prep" myself before I got back into the gym. I have a kid and another on the way, so time at the gym is very difficult, so I need to do something like this so I can do whatever I can at home, so when I do get to go to the gym, I can do more than flail, get discouraged, and not climb again.

Here's the plan - 6 base weeks of the following, then ramp it up to actual climbing stuff (like hangboard work or something else someone smarter/more experienced knows of):

Base week:
1. Stretch everyday
2. On the bike 2x a week for cardio (I mountain bike regularly)
3. 2 days of yoga a week (45 minutes to an hour)
4. 3 days of pull up & push up type exercises a week
5. 2 days that work on calf/toe strength

I started this last week and have been doing my pull ups open handed or crimped on the bar, and also some sets are done with a foot up on a chair back to simulate steep routes. My forearms get a little pumped by the time I am done. I do 6 sets of these pull up-type things until failure. I have also been doing 100 push ups every other day and ab work every other day.

Do you think this will work for a dad in his 30's with very little time to actually or should I give up and just accept that I now have play golf like the rest of my lame friends?


Rudmin


Aug 4, 2010, 3:09 PM
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It probably will help your overall fitness but do very little if anything for your climbing.

EDITED: Missed the chin up parts. Grip and forearm strength will help you jump back in. Usually that's what holds back anyone who doesn't climb.


(This post was edited by Rudmin on Aug 4, 2010, 3:11 PM)


onceahardman


Aug 4, 2010, 3:49 PM
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Build a woodie, and use that instead of some of your other training time, or do some buildering.

Even some creative tree climbing (don't laugh too hard) can have some positive effect.


johnwesely


Aug 4, 2010, 4:04 PM
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clarkenstein wrote:

Do you think this will work for a dad in his 30's with very little time to actually or should I give up and just accept that I now have play golf like the rest of my lame friends?

If the only thing that matters to you about climbing is performance, then maybe you should find something that you actually like to do.


Bag11s


Aug 4, 2010, 6:46 PM
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Dad in your 30s- Just work out a deal with your wife such that you can go to the nearest climbing gym twice a week, in the evenings or sunday afternoon, whatever. Just start bouldering again, no need to worry about flailing- no one is going to care- if you bouldered V5 before, you can do it again. If you want it to be, this could be the beginning of a twenty five or more year block of fun climbing adventures- forget about golf, that's just lame except as a distracting diversion.


rtwilli4


Aug 4, 2010, 7:48 PM
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If you regularly mountain bike then you are probably in decent shape for climbing. Hell, your probably in better shape than me!

Anyway, if your time is that valuable then you should go ahead and start climbing right away instead of wasting it doing exercises that aren't going to help your climbing.

Yoga is good if you feel like your body needs a wake up call, but it will only help your climbing if you are actually climbing along with the Yoga.

Just go to the gym as much as you can. You can get a good workout in just an hour if you are efficient.

And don't worry about flailing. Every climber does that. For the last three years I have been moving a lot and every time I leave one area and go to another, my climbing grade goes down like 3 numbers for a few weeks until I get used to the new rock. Embarrassing to let the new group of potential partners watch me flail... but who gives a shit!


clarkenstein


Aug 4, 2010, 8:14 PM
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i do feel like my body needs a wake up call. its been a while. thanks for the feedback everyone. i appreciate it. i think i'll do some base work, then just get into the gym. i look forward to getting back into it. i miss the feeling.[


potreroed


Aug 4, 2010, 9:56 PM
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Get on real rock asap.


bustloose


Aug 5, 2010, 8:29 AM
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regretted posting on here yet? the above string of pointless drivel is about on par.

if you are looking at doing 6 weeks worth of "training" before stepping back into the gym, you're on the right track, but could be a bit more focused.
for instance, calf and toe work is absolutely not required in isolation, even if you didn't ride a bike regularly.

stretching for the sake of stretching is probably not necessary if you are doing yoga, and you should remember not stretch cold muscles.

if you don't have a hangboard, then pull ups are of course very helpful. vary the width of your grip and always move slow and controlled, through the full range of motion. you should also be focused on chin ups (palms facing out) as opposed to pull ups (palms facing in). if you're still strong, you should consider adding weight.

wrist curls with weight will help isolate your forearms, either with a bar, or rolling up a weight on a string handing from a rod.

if you have a hangboard, then look up various hangboard workouts, just be cautious of over working your fingers too quickly.

this is of course just a quick overview, you really should be adding structure to your workouts and your overall plan...


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 8:48 AM
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bustloose wrote:
regretted posting on here yet? the above string of pointless drivel is about on par.

if you are looking at doing 6 weeks worth of "training" before stepping back into the gym, you're on the right track, but could be a bit more focused.
for instance, calf and toe work is absolutely not required in isolation, even if you didn't ride a bike regularly.

stretching for the sake of stretching is probably not necessary if you are doing yoga, and you should remember not stretch cold muscles.

if you don't have a hangboard, then pull ups are of course very helpful. vary the width of your grip and always move slow and controlled, through the full range of motion. you should also be focused on chin ups (palms facing out) as opposed to pull ups (palms facing in). if you're still strong, you should consider adding weight.

wrist curls with weight will help isolate your forearms, either with a bar, or rolling up a weight on a string handing from a rod.

if you have a hangboard, then look up various hangboard workouts, just be cautious of over working your fingers too quickly.

this is of course just a quick overview, you really should be adding structure to your workouts and your overall plan...

The above string of pointless drivel is about on par.


clarkenstein


Aug 5, 2010, 8:49 AM
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bustloose wrote:
regretted posting on here yet? the above string of pointless drivel is about on par.

haha definitely not.


bustloose wrote:
this is of course just a quick overview, you really should be adding structure to your workouts and your overall plan...

thanks for the post - very helpful stuff.

i've been switching both hand position on the bar - it has a cross bar set up, so i have been doing undercling, overhand and my hands parallel to my body for the different sets. also, during a set i'll hold a position, and sometimes change hand positions while holding that position, trying to mimic switching hands, or matching grip.

thanks for the heads up on the hangboard ideas. i'm gonna search for some that info.

but getting an injury is something i feel like i could definitely do. i feel like if i just jumped into what i think i should be able to do, i'll end up doing something stupid and pop something.

as far as my structure goes i did lay out a plan (i won't bore you with the details). i think i have to tweak it a little tho, maybe add a rest day. i am feeling sore in the good way tho, in my forearms, arms, shoulders, core. so something is happening. i have no idea if its a good something for climbing, but i am definitely waking up the body.


xaniel2000


Aug 5, 2010, 8:54 AM
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I think what you're doing is a good idea. More power to ya


sidepull


Aug 5, 2010, 9:16 AM
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I'd ignore getting a hangboard or doing your training program as outlined. I think you'd be better served by going to a gym 2-3 times a week and following a plan laid out in The Self Coached Climber.

If you're concerned about general fitness then do a scaled Crossfit Workout, The Workout From Hell, or P90X. None of those will help you climb better per se, but they'll help you loose some weight and possibly stave off injury.

Why these things instead of your plan? Well, your plan doesn't have enough variety - you'll get burned out in 3 weeks.

In sum, start climbing in the gym in a very structured way. If you can't do that, then get in shape. If you need to do both, then mix them together allowing a preference for the climbing days in terms of how you rest and allocate time.

Finally, don't do anything that feels tweaky or potentially injurious. Listen to your body and enjoy getting back into a groove (i.e., don't feel like you have to climb V5 out of the gate, a month of V0-V2 can be a lot of fun).

As an anecdote, I hadn't climbed for about 6 months as I finished my dissertation. Right after graduation I spent 2 months in Sheffield. For the first 6 weeks I just circuited easy problems 3-4 days a week (or climbed in the gym on rainy days; my protocol was to start on the easiest problems and then just work my way up). I supplemented this with some modified crossfit stuff at a local park 2-3 days a week. Through out the whole process I was super patient and always backed off of things if I felt I was getting close to an over-use injury. At the end of my trip I was able to climb Deliverance in a single session.

Good luck!


bustloose


Aug 5, 2010, 12:21 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
bustloose wrote:
regretted posting on here yet? the above string of pointless drivel is about on par.

if you are looking at doing 6 weeks worth of "training" before stepping back into the gym, you're on the right track, but could be a bit more focused.
for instance, calf and toe work is absolutely not required in isolation, even if you didn't ride a bike regularly.

stretching for the sake of stretching is probably not necessary if you are doing yoga, and you should remember not stretch cold muscles.

if you don't have a hangboard, then pull ups are of course very helpful. vary the width of your grip and always move slow and controlled, through the full range of motion. you should also be focused on chin ups (palms facing out) as opposed to pull ups (palms facing in). if you're still strong, you should consider adding weight.

wrist curls with weight will help isolate your forearms, either with a bar, or rolling up a weight on a string handing from a rod.

if you have a hangboard, then look up various hangboard workouts, just be cautious of over working your fingers too quickly.

this is of course just a quick overview, you really should be adding structure to your workouts and your overall plan...

The above string of pointless drivel is about on par.

you really are awesome.

please explain how this was helpful...
In reply to:
If the only thing that matters to you about climbing is performance, then maybe you should find something that you actually like to do.


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 12:26 PM
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bustloose wrote:

please explain how this was helpful...
In reply to:
If the only thing that matters to you about climbing is performance, then maybe you should find something that you actually like to do.

Because if he really is not sure if he wants to get back into climbing because he doubts he will climb v5 again, then he probably doesn't really like climbing that much. I was being helpful by potentially saving him time and a costly gym membership.


bustloose


Aug 5, 2010, 12:38 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
bustloose wrote:

please explain how this was helpful...
In reply to:
If the only thing that matters to you about climbing is performance, then maybe you should find something that you actually like to do.

Because if he really is not sure if he wants to get back into climbing because he doubts he will climb v5 again, then he probably doesn't really like climbing that much. I was being helpful by potentially saving him time and a costly gym membership.

words fail me.


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 12:55 PM
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bustloose wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
bustloose wrote:

please explain how this was helpful...
In reply to:
If the only thing that matters to you about climbing is performance, then maybe you should find something that you actually like to do.

Because if he really is not sure if he wants to get back into climbing because he doubts he will climb v5 again, then he probably doesn't really like climbing that much. I was being helpful by potentially saving him time and a costly gym membership.

words fail me.

Obviously.

I was, after all, answering his question.

clarkenstein wrote:
Do you think this will work for a dad in his 30's with very little time to actually or should I give up and just accept that I now have play golf like the rest of my lame friends?


sp00ki


Aug 5, 2010, 1:36 PM
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This is so weird.
If you want to get back into climbing, why not start by going back to the gym and climbing?

I'm willing to bet that a week of bouldering is going to get you into better climbing shape than even a month of that other stuff.

This is the equivalent of training for track season by playing tennis.


bustloose


Aug 5, 2010, 2:08 PM
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FFS, did ANY of you read the part where he mentions that getting to the gym is difficult??


oh and John, you're a waste of space, why don't you just go away??


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 2:11 PM
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bustloose wrote:
FFS, did ANY of you read the part where he mentions that getting to the gym is difficult??


oh and John, you're a waste of space, why don't you just go away??

Thanks a bunch for the love. I am sorry I hurt your feelings earlier.


Bag11s


Aug 5, 2010, 6:23 PM
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I disagree with Bustloose and his conservative, cautious, and boring approach. It just seems like it would suck all the life out of your renewed interest and energy. I would way prefer going with Potrero Ed, who has the best advice- just get outside soon as you can, and get climbing.


sidepull


Aug 5, 2010, 6:46 PM
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The notion that training somehow sucks the life out of sports in general and climbing in particular is an unfortunate myth that is grounded in praising the genetics of elite climbers that often chant "I don't train" and in a general - perhaps even American - distaste for hard work and discipline. Alex Lowe was in the gym before most people got up. Tommy Caldwell punishes his body in the gym before he takes it to Yosemite. Paxti ... you get the point. Most elite climbers don't "just climb" - they sacrifice through training so that "just climbing" means something more. People that argue otherwise are the same ones waiting for a pill to make them smarter, sexier, thinner, stronger, etc. Keep waiting. The rest of us will train and go climbing more.


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 7:19 PM
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sidepull wrote:
The notion that training somehow sucks the life out of sports in general and climbing in particular is an unfortunate myth that is grounded in praising the genetics of elite climbers that often chant "I don't train" and in a general - perhaps even American - distaste for hard work and discipline. Alex Lowe was in the gym before most people got up. Tommy Caldwell punishes his body in the gym before he takes it to Yosemite. Paxti ... you get the point. Most elite climbers don't "just climb" - they sacrifice through training so that "just climbing" means something more. People that argue otherwise are the same ones waiting for a pill to make them smarter, sexier, thinner, stronger, etc. Keep waiting. The rest of us will train and go climbing more.

I don't see how there is anything unfortunate about it. It is not like there is any virtue in climbing "hard". A route at your limit is a route at your limit whether it is 5.6, 5.10, 5,12, or 5,15. It is true that getting stronger gives you a larger variety of routes to climb, but it is not like there are not billions of routes out there. You can train and sacrifice if you want, but everything else in life is so performance oriented that I prefer climbing not to be. I thoroughly enjoy the challenge of climbing and succeeding on a route right at my limit, but I think a lot of climbers, especially those that are my age, are so focused on performance that they kind of miss the point. I am not saying that is you or anyone else on this board, but is something that I notice quite frequently.

With that I will repeat my initial, and apparently quite stupid point. If you don't enjoy climbing for climbing's sake and feel the need to perform to make it a worthwhile pursuit, then there is probably something else in this world that you would like better. To me, it seemed that the OP only wanted to get back into climbing if he could perform at a level he deemed sufficient. If he really wants to climb, he should just go do it and enjoy it. If he can rarely get to the gym or the crag, it is unlikely he will meet his performance goals, but he can still have a lot of fun when he goes out.


clarkenstein


Aug 5, 2010, 7:35 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
With that I will repeat my initial, and apparently quite stupid point. If you don't enjoy climbing for climbing's sake and feel the need to perform to make it a worthwhile pursuit, then there is probably something else in this world that you would like better. To me, it seemed that the OP only wanted to get back into climbing if he could perform at a level he deemed sufficient. If he really wants to climb, he should just go do it and enjoy it. If he can rarely get to the gym or the crag, it is unlikely he will meet his performance goals, but he can still have a lot of fun when he goes out.

i think you read too much into my first post, but no worries. performance "level" isn't key. i was just providing some background for some "color" i guess. that said, it would be nice to go out and boulder. and like actually boulder.

i have "trained" for mountain biking. and it paid off. i was not just faster, but what was nice is i developed the fitness to do things i normally couldn't do. i could clean tough sections of trail that required technique and fitness. that makes my rides more enjoyable.

translate that over to climbing. some hard work (if not boring work) will hopefully allow some base level to exist, so when i go out i can send something, V0 or V5, that doesn't matter, but i'll be able to actually climb. but if you haven't stepped away from climbing for a while - like years like me - you don't understand how strong a climber "you" is. the older dad version of myself is not what i used to be.

i hope that makes sense...


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 8:07 PM
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clarkenstein wrote:

i think you read too much into my first post, but no worries. performance "level" isn't key. i was just providing some background for some "color" i guess. that said, it would be nice to go out and boulder. and like actually boulder.

i have "trained" for mountain biking. and it paid off. i was not just faster, but what was nice is i developed the fitness to do things i normally couldn't do. i could clean tough sections of trail that required technique and fitness. that makes my rides more enjoyable.

translate that over to climbing. some hard work (if not boring work) will hopefully allow some base level to exist, so when i go out i can send something, V0 or V5, that doesn't matter, but i'll be able to actually climb. but if you haven't stepped away from climbing for a while - like years like me - you don't understand how strong a climber "you" is. the older dad version of myself is not what i used to be.

i hope that makes sense...

I probably did read to much in too your first post, but I also enjoy playing devils advocate.

If I were you, I would just get to the gym or the crag and climb. It will come back soon enough. I also think there may be some danger in pre climbing training in terms of injury for a few reasons. If you come into climbing with really strong pull muscles, you will be less likely to rely of regaining your technique. This will put more weight on your fingers, not to mention that a misplaced foot is the easiest way to blow a pulley.

Don't get discouraged. Focus on the climbing instead of yourself 5 or 10 years ago, and you will have a lot more fun and be much more likely to stick with it.

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