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vishnuepie
Nov 12, 2001, 2:16 AM
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is 4mm cord enough for a belay? about how strong is it? do u need to tie a triple fishermans if your going to use 4mm
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jbur
Nov 12, 2001, 2:33 AM
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Are you talking about for use as a cordelette? If you are, I would say no. For nylon cord, 7mm and 8mm are considered the standard for cordelettes. According to Black Diamonds website the strength of 4mm is 740lbs. The strength of 7mm and 8mm is 2100lbs and 3150lbs. A double fisherman should be adequate for nylon accessory cord.
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vishnuepie
Nov 12, 2001, 2:57 AM
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so whats 4mm used for then?
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rrrADAM
Nov 12, 2001, 3:04 AM
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Prusiks and some people use them as cordalettes.
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aulwes
Nov 12, 2001, 3:20 AM
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What about 5.5mm kevlar cord? what would that be used for? It it good or ok for cordallette, or it better for just nuts? I bought 20' of it for $4 - normally $20
[ This Message was edited by: aulwes on 2001-11-11 22:36 ]
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darkside
Nov 12, 2001, 3:50 AM
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4mm cord!!! You mean 4mm a.k.a. ACCESSORY cord.
Anchors, cordallettes, prussics? Accessory cord is just that. Hang your gear on it before putting it back in your pack, use it to sling a water bottle, tie your chalk bag on with it but for heavens sake don't put your life on it unless you're planning on making a noose with it.
OK now on a similar note. I have 8m of 5mm kevlar cord(sometimes referred to generically as spectra-cord). It has a kevlar core in a nylon sheath and therefore a high tensile strength. I understand kevlar becomes brittle with repeated flexing though, who else has heard similar or contrary? There is also a relatively new cord known as tech-cord which does not have this drawback. Has anyone used this?
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aulwes
Nov 12, 2001, 4:44 AM
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All of my hexes are strung with spectra... but i'm interested in what "darkside" said "kevlar becomes brittle with repeated flexing" is this true? and how often should I replace my cord?
[ This Message was edited by: aulwes on 2001-11-11 22:37 ]
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jbur
Nov 12, 2001, 6:28 AM
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Check out this site www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing
It has info on weakening by repeated bending of different cords. It's listed under "comparative testing of high strength cord"
[ This Message was edited by: jbur on 2001-11-11 22:30 ]
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aulwes
Nov 12, 2001, 6:55 AM
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Thanks Jbur,
I liked the idea of the webolette anchor!
And overall 1" webbing tested better than everthing else, that site had some really good reading!
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