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Bouldering without a spotter
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JakubBujak


Aug 12, 2010, 2:03 PM
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Bouldering without a spotter
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All my climbing friends are busy this weekend, but I would really like to do some climbing before the next semester starts. Is it advisable (aka safe) to be climbing without a spotter if one has a crash pad?


hafilax


Aug 12, 2010, 2:21 PM
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Re: [JakubBujak] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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Yes, if you stay in control, pick appropriate problems and know how to fall properly.


patmay81


Aug 12, 2010, 2:38 PM
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I do it all the time, even w/o a pad some times. Its hard for me to boulder at my limit, even with a clean landing, without a spotter. I think its just a matter of having someone there to work the problem with and encourage me to push myself, more than any added security or safety.


bill413


Aug 12, 2010, 3:33 PM
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JakubBujak wrote:
All my climbing friends are busy this weekend, but I would really like to do some climbing before the next semester starts. Is it advisable (aka safe) to be climbing without a spotter if one has a crash pad?

Depends on how remote the boulders are and what the typical landing is like.

If the landing zones are generally good, sounds safe enough. If they're not...you really want to think about the whole "staying in control" thing.


jbone


Aug 12, 2010, 4:52 PM
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Re: [JakubBujak] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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I've been saying this for a long time now...

90% of spotting is pad placement.


swoopee


Aug 12, 2010, 6:09 PM
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Bouldering is masturbation and should always be done alone.


healyje


Aug 12, 2010, 6:37 PM
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Pads? Spotters? Don't need no stinking spotty pads...




curt


Aug 12, 2010, 6:50 PM
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healyje wrote:
Pads? Spotters? Don't need no stinking spotty pads...


HE'S GONNA DIE... Cool

Curt


bill413


Aug 12, 2010, 7:57 PM
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swoopee wrote:
Bouldering is masturbation and should always be done alone.

Now that could give new meaning to "spotters."


johnwesely


Aug 12, 2010, 9:16 PM
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When I use to be serious about bouldering, I always bouldered solo with a home made crashpad made from deck chair cushions. Try not to fall weird or from too high up.


spikeddem


Aug 13, 2010, 7:06 AM
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Re: [hafilax] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
Yes, if you stay in control, pick appropriate problems and know how to fall properly.

I get the feeling that if he actually asked this question, then the answer is just a simple "No." It's like free soloing: If you have to ask . . .


keinangst


Aug 13, 2010, 8:17 AM
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90% of my bouldering is done solo with 1 pad. Sure, there are plenty of problems where this isn't IDEAL, but I just think about people like Gill, Holloway, Vermin, and the Bleausards, call myself a big pussy, and climb on. :D

Control (mental and physical) is the key. Don't push your limits if the potential fall is dangerous.


(This post was edited by keinangst on Aug 13, 2010, 8:18 AM)


Bats


Aug 13, 2010, 9:45 AM
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I do a lot of roofs that is like 3-4 ft high with a pad, If I am not climbing roofs, I normally stop about 12 ft if the top out higher.


kriso9tails


Aug 13, 2010, 3:54 PM
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Re: [jbone] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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jbone wrote:
I've been saying this for a long time now...

90% of spotting is pad placement.

+1

Really, an ability to asses risk, in general, is the key thing a boulderer needs to bring to every session. We live in an era where adding more pads, more spotters, more helmets etc. is falsely equated with safety, but sometimes all that is needed is sound judgment.


ClimbClimb


Aug 13, 2010, 6:51 PM
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Re: [JakubBujak] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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1. I'm assuming you mean outside, not at the gym? b.c. at the gym, it's pretty normal to do most problems without a spotter, even near your limit

2. I have been present for at least one situation where the presence & actions of a spotter (in stopping someone from tipping backwards in a fall) prevented what would've been a pretty bad outcome

3. Just remember, none of the people posting here will be there to help you urinate through a catheter & give you sponge-baths if something goes wrong. ;-)

[edits for spelling typos]


(This post was edited by ClimbClimb on Aug 13, 2010, 8:05 PM)


JakubBujak


Aug 13, 2010, 7:01 PM
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So what would be the difference between indoor and outdoor bouldering safety-wise?


ClimbClimb


Aug 13, 2010, 8:15 PM
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JakubBujak wrote:
So what would be the difference between indoor and outdoor bouldering safety-wise?

a) where you land in most reasonable gyms, the landing surface is both more regular and much softer -- as compared to hard ground, flat rocks and dangerous rocks when bouldering outside

b) the routes it is likely that indoor routes will be rated and of a more uniform difficulty, with few surprises, unlike routes outdoors -- that may surprise with their difficulty and varying height

c) environment assuming an equally unfortunate fall and injury, the consequences of breaking your leg inside a gym, around staff & other climbers, compared to doing so while alone at dusk in a deserted far-off bouldering area, are vastly different... don't know where you normally go outside, and perhaps it is quite urban with many people around, but any injury is potentially more serious if the environment is more "wild"


curt


Aug 13, 2010, 9:06 PM
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Re: [jbone] Bouldering without a spotter [In reply to]
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jbone wrote:
I've been saying this for a long time now...

90% of spotting is pad placement.

It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore.

Curt


jbone


Aug 13, 2010, 9:34 PM
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What's really awesome is when someone you don't know thinks there helping you by jumping up to spot you.

Unfortunately they have very little experience spotting the problem so they end up dabbing you on the final crux throw.

Now you end up waiting till the guy leaves to do it again so you can feel right about the send.


healyje


Aug 13, 2010, 9:38 PM
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Metolius Colossus Crash Pad - $289.00

Revolution Spot Pad - $104.21



Commitment - Priceless...


curt


Aug 15, 2010, 4:10 PM
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healyje wrote:
Metolius Colossus Crash Pad - $289.00

Revolution Spot Pad - $104.21



Commitment - Priceless...

Nice pic of the Sunshine boulder. There's another nice problem that goes up the right side of that face.

Curt


kriso9tails


Aug 15, 2010, 4:45 PM
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curt wrote:
jbone wrote:
I've been saying this for a long time now...

90% of spotting is pad placement.

It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore.

Curt

If you are going to make a statement like that, please define what you consider proper spotting.


curt


Aug 15, 2010, 8:40 PM
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kriso9tails wrote:
curt wrote:
jbone wrote:
I've been saying this for a long time now...

90% of spotting is pad placement.

It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore.

Curt

If you are going to make a statement like that, please define what you consider proper spotting.

Well, when I began bouldering 30+ years ago, many practitioners of the art were formally trained gymnasts, as I was. When spotting new tricks, we learned to pay attention to where the center of mass of a gymnast was and how to properly cushion his fall if something went wrong. It is obvious to me that this level of rigor is absent in the training of the vast majority of climbing spotters these days.

Curt


jbone


Aug 15, 2010, 9:20 PM
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The irony is, when you and your "formally trained gymnastic squad" did your gymnastics you had padding and all sorts of protective methods to minimize risk.

It was quite a while before any of those initial exploits were recognized cause only a proportionate amount of it was worth noticing.

Now, thanks to the bouldering pad (in my opinion) a considerable amount of bouldering is considered "notable."

I'm not talking trash about Mr. Gill's exploits and his marvelous test pieces, but if he didn't use chalk I wonder if he could have taken it as far as he did.

The point I am trying to make is I truly believe the bouldering pad itself did more for pushing "notable" bouldering than "proper spotting technique" and maybe even chalk. Bouldering did not get to where it is now because of "proper spotting technique" it got here because of the bouldering pad.

Just like how in motocross you see guys doing flips routinely cause they use pad pits to minimize actual risk. Thing is in motocross you don't see old timers holding resentment for the newbies pushing the sport by using pad pits, and the ones that do have nobody to say it too.


curt


Aug 15, 2010, 9:39 PM
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jbone wrote:
The irony is, when you and your "formally trained gymnastic squad" did your gymnastics you had padding and all sorts of protective methods to minimize risk.

It was quite a while before any of those initial exploits were recognized cause only a proportionate amount of it was worth noticing.

Now, thanks to the bouldering pad (in my opinion) a considerable amount of bouldering is considered "notable."

I'm not talking trash about Mr. Gill's exploits and his marvelous test pieces, but if he didn't use chalk I wonder if he could have taken it as far as he did.

The point I am trying to make is I truly believe the bouldering pad itself did more for pushing "notable" bouldering than "proper spotting technique" and maybe even chalk. Bouldering did not get to where it is now because of "proper spotting technique" it got here because of the bouldering pad...

Your post is disjointed enough that it's difficult to discern what your point is, if indeed you have one. Chalk, for one thing, has absolutely nothing to do with this thread. Bouldering pads are fine--I even have a couple of them, but they are essentially a proxy for a top rope, which also enabled some "notable" problems to be done.

In any event, none of this has anything to do with spotting.

Curt

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