|
JakubBujak
Aug 12, 2010, 9:03 PM
Post #1 of 55
(15813 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2009
Posts: 102
|
All my climbing friends are busy this weekend, but I would really like to do some climbing before the next semester starts. Is it advisable (aka safe) to be climbing without a spotter if one has a crash pad?
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Aug 12, 2010, 9:21 PM
Post #2 of 55
(15791 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
Yes, if you stay in control, pick appropriate problems and know how to fall properly.
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Aug 12, 2010, 9:38 PM
Post #3 of 55
(15779 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
I do it all the time, even w/o a pad some times. Its hard for me to boulder at my limit, even with a clean landing, without a spotter. I think its just a matter of having someone there to work the problem with and encourage me to push myself, more than any added security or safety.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Aug 12, 2010, 10:33 PM
Post #4 of 55
(15754 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
JakubBujak wrote: All my climbing friends are busy this weekend, but I would really like to do some climbing before the next semester starts. Is it advisable (aka safe) to be climbing without a spotter if one has a crash pad?
Depends on how remote the boulders are and what the typical landing is like.
If the landing zones are generally good, sounds safe enough. If they're not...you really want to think about the whole "staying in control" thing.
|
|
|
|
|
jbone
Aug 12, 2010, 11:52 PM
Post #5 of 55
(15725 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
|
I've been saying this for a long time now...
90% of spotting is pad placement.
|
|
|
|
|
swoopee
Aug 13, 2010, 1:09 AM
Post #6 of 55
(15694 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
|
Bouldering is masturbation and should always be done alone.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Aug 13, 2010, 1:37 AM
Post #7 of 55
(15679 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Pads? Spotters? Don't need no stinking spotty pads...
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Aug 13, 2010, 2:57 AM
Post #9 of 55
(15644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
swoopee wrote: Bouldering is masturbation and should always be done alone.
Now that could give new meaning to "spotters."
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 13, 2010, 4:16 AM
Post #10 of 55
(15625 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
When I use to be serious about bouldering, I always bouldered solo with a home made crashpad made from deck chair cushions. Try not to fall weird or from too high up.
|
|
|
|
|
spikeddem
Aug 13, 2010, 2:06 PM
Post #11 of 55
(15550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
|
hafilax wrote: Yes, if you stay in control, pick appropriate problems and know how to fall properly.
I get the feeling that if he actually asked this question, then the answer is just a simple "No." It's like free soloing: If you have to ask . . .
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Aug 13, 2010, 3:17 PM
Post #12 of 55
(15519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
90% of my bouldering is done solo with 1 pad. Sure, there are plenty of problems where this isn't IDEAL, but I just think about people like Gill, Holloway, Vermin, and the Bleausards, call myself a big pussy, and climb on. :D
Control (mental and physical) is the key. Don't push your limits if the potential fall is dangerous.
(This post was edited by keinangst on Aug 13, 2010, 3:18 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Bats
Aug 13, 2010, 4:45 PM
Post #13 of 55
(15482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2007
Posts: 486
|
I do a lot of roofs that is like 3-4 ft high with a pad, If I am not climbing roofs, I normally stop about 12 ft if the top out higher.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Aug 13, 2010, 10:54 PM
Post #14 of 55
(15423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
jbone wrote: I've been saying this for a long time now... 90% of spotting is pad placement.
+1
Really, an ability to asses risk, in general, is the key thing a boulderer needs to bring to every session. We live in an era where adding more pads, more spotters, more helmets etc. is falsely equated with safety, but sometimes all that is needed is sound judgment.
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbClimb
Aug 14, 2010, 1:51 AM
Post #15 of 55
(15389 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389
|
1. I'm assuming you mean outside, not at the gym? b.c. at the gym, it's pretty normal to do most problems without a spotter, even near your limit
2. I have been present for at least one situation where the presence & actions of a spotter (in stopping someone from tipping backwards in a fall) prevented what would've been a pretty bad outcome
3. Just remember, none of the people posting here will be there to help you urinate through a catheter & give you sponge-baths if something goes wrong. ;-)
[edits for spelling typos]
(This post was edited by ClimbClimb on Aug 14, 2010, 3:05 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
JakubBujak
Aug 14, 2010, 2:01 AM
Post #16 of 55
(15384 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2009
Posts: 102
|
So what would be the difference between indoor and outdoor bouldering safety-wise?
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbClimb
Aug 14, 2010, 3:15 AM
Post #17 of 55
(15364 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389
|
JakubBujak wrote: So what would be the difference between indoor and outdoor bouldering safety-wise?
a) where you land in most reasonable gyms, the landing surface is both more regular and much softer -- as compared to hard ground, flat rocks and dangerous rocks when bouldering outside
b) the routes it is likely that indoor routes will be rated and of a more uniform difficulty, with few surprises, unlike routes outdoors -- that may surprise with their difficulty and varying height
c) environment assuming an equally unfortunate fall and injury, the consequences of breaking your leg inside a gym, around staff & other climbers, compared to doing so while alone at dusk in a deserted far-off bouldering area, are vastly different... don't know where you normally go outside, and perhaps it is quite urban with many people around, but any injury is potentially more serious if the environment is more "wild"
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Aug 14, 2010, 4:06 AM
Post #18 of 55
(15359 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
jbone wrote: I've been saying this for a long time now... 90% of spotting is pad placement.
It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
jbone
Aug 14, 2010, 4:34 AM
Post #19 of 55
(15350 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
|
What's really awesome is when someone you don't know thinks there helping you by jumping up to spot you.
Unfortunately they have very little experience spotting the problem so they end up dabbing you on the final crux throw.
Now you end up waiting till the guy leaves to do it again so you can feel right about the send.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Aug 14, 2010, 4:38 AM
Post #20 of 55
(15344 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Metolius Colossus Crash Pad - $289.00
Revolution Spot Pad - $104.21
Commitment - Priceless...
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Aug 15, 2010, 11:10 PM
Post #21 of 55
(15197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
healyje wrote: Metolius Colossus Crash Pad - $289.00 Revolution Spot Pad - $104.21 Commitment - Priceless...
Nice pic of the Sunshine boulder. There's another nice problem that goes up the right side of that face.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Aug 15, 2010, 11:45 PM
Post #22 of 55
(15190 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
curt wrote: jbone wrote: I've been saying this for a long time now... 90% of spotting is pad placement. It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore. Curt
If you are going to make a statement like that, please define what you consider proper spotting.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Aug 16, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #23 of 55
(15164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
kriso9tails wrote: curt wrote: jbone wrote: I've been saying this for a long time now... 90% of spotting is pad placement. It probably is these days, since people don't know how to spot anymore. Curt If you are going to make a statement like that, please define what you consider proper spotting.
Well, when I began bouldering 30+ years ago, many practitioners of the art were formally trained gymnasts, as I was. When spotting new tricks, we learned to pay attention to where the center of mass of a gymnast was and how to properly cushion his fall if something went wrong. It is obvious to me that this level of rigor is absent in the training of the vast majority of climbing spotters these days.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
jbone
Aug 16, 2010, 4:20 AM
Post #24 of 55
(15152 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
|
The irony is, when you and your "formally trained gymnastic squad" did your gymnastics you had padding and all sorts of protective methods to minimize risk.
It was quite a while before any of those initial exploits were recognized cause only a proportionate amount of it was worth noticing.
Now, thanks to the bouldering pad (in my opinion) a considerable amount of bouldering is considered "notable."
I'm not talking trash about Mr. Gill's exploits and his marvelous test pieces, but if he didn't use chalk I wonder if he could have taken it as far as he did.
The point I am trying to make is I truly believe the bouldering pad itself did more for pushing "notable" bouldering than "proper spotting technique" and maybe even chalk. Bouldering did not get to where it is now because of "proper spotting technique" it got here because of the bouldering pad.
Just like how in motocross you see guys doing flips routinely cause they use pad pits to minimize actual risk. Thing is in motocross you don't see old timers holding resentment for the newbies pushing the sport by using pad pits, and the ones that do have nobody to say it too.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Aug 16, 2010, 4:39 AM
Post #25 of 55
(15138 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
jbone wrote: The irony is, when you and your "formally trained gymnastic squad" did your gymnastics you had padding and all sorts of protective methods to minimize risk. It was quite a while before any of those initial exploits were recognized cause only a proportionate amount of it was worth noticing. Now, thanks to the bouldering pad (in my opinion) a considerable amount of bouldering is considered "notable." I'm not talking trash about Mr. Gill's exploits and his marvelous test pieces, but if he didn't use chalk I wonder if he could have taken it as far as he did. The point I am trying to make is I truly believe the bouldering pad itself did more for pushing "notable" bouldering than "proper spotting technique" and maybe even chalk. Bouldering did not get to where it is now because of "proper spotting technique" it got here because of the bouldering pad...
Your post is disjointed enough that it's difficult to discern what your point is, if indeed you have one. Chalk, for one thing, has absolutely nothing to do with this thread. Bouldering pads are fine--I even have a couple of them, but they are essentially a proxy for a top rope, which also enabled some "notable" problems to be done.
In any event, none of this has anything to do with spotting.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
