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Improving endurance on hangboard?
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rocknrock


Aug 22, 2010, 11:27 AM
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Improving endurance on hangboard?
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I have an endurance weakness and I'm looking for ways to improve it outside the climbing gym or crag. Gym's far, super busy etc etc. I'm doing what I can when there to work on endurance but need more at home.

I'm an an apartment, as far as training aids best I've been able to do so far is mount a metolius simulator above a door with a board on the opposite side that can take bolt on holds.

I"ve been trying just going from board to board switching around on holds for as long as I can but it's rather hard given no feet - probably more power endurance like training. I'm looking more for improving general endurance.

any at home drill suggestions?


thanks


styndall


Aug 22, 2010, 11:42 AM
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Re: [rocknrock] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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Put a stool or a chair on the other side of the door so you can use your feet to take some of your weight.


danabart


Aug 23, 2010, 5:36 AM
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Re: [rocknrock] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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Build a small climbing wall. Training endurance on a wall that fits in an apartment requires dedication and tolerance for boredom, but it can be done. It is a better option for endurance training than a hangboard.


keinangst


Aug 23, 2010, 8:23 AM
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Re: [danabart] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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Put your heels up on a ladder or chair, and keep a straight body. This will train your core tension while taking some of the strain off your hands--IMO, this is a far more common situation in real climbing (when compared to static hanging). It still doesn't have active feet, but at least you're getting the rest of your body involved.

When doing this, practice moving your hands around the different holds to mix it up a little bit. I find that helps the time go by quicker with less perceived exertion.


darkgift06


Aug 24, 2010, 9:54 AM
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Re: [keinangst] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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I find a progressive to max & then a digressive work out is key.

I do a 15-20 min work out all arms hanging.. I've heard it called death by pull ups, to add more core I do leg lifts knees to elbows/chest when my chin is over the bar.

1st min you do 1 pull up in the one min
2nd min do 2 in the one min.
3rd min do 3 in the one min
4th min do 4 in the one min
5th min do 5 in the one min

Rest 1-5 min

1st min do 5 in the one min
2nd min do 4 in the one min
3rd min do 3 in one min
4th min do 2 in one min
5th min do 1 in one min

depending on your fitness level you may only be able to do 2-3 min, or you may want to push yourself & go higher.


sidepull


Aug 24, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Re: [rocknrock] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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hangboards simply weren't made for training endurance. I think the advice to use a stool or chair to take off weight is helpful, but if you did a 4-6 week cycle of this sort of exercise I would bet you're more likely to end up with an injury rather than improvement in endurance.


sp00ki


Aug 24, 2010, 3:38 PM
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Re: [rocknrock] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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Move closer to a gym or crag.


spikeddem


Aug 24, 2010, 5:42 PM
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Re: [darkgift06] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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darkgift06 wrote:
I find a progressive to max & then a digressive work out is key.

I do a 15-20 min work out all arms hanging.. I've heard it called death by pull ups, to add more core I do leg lifts knees to elbows/chest when my chin is over the bar.

1st min you do 1 pull up in the one min
2nd min do 2 in the one min.
3rd min do 3 in the one min
4th min do 4 in the one min
5th min do 5 in the one min

Rest 1-5 min

1st min do 5 in the one min
2nd min do 4 in the one min
3rd min do 3 in one min
4th min do 2 in one min
5th min do 1 in one min

depending on your fitness level you may only be able to do 2-3 min, or you may want to push yourself & go higher.

To the OP, my advice is...don't do this. I suppose, honestly, that's my advice to anyone wanting to get better at climbing.


ceebo


Sep 1, 2010, 8:02 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Improving endurance on hangboard? [In reply to]
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This can be done, but its hard to get the setup where you mimic climbing as much as possible. And you need quite a good imagination and improvise alot to get the most out of it.

If the hang board is high enough so that you can get your feet on the wall its attached too you can then screw some rails into the wall below the hangboard for your feet ( lots at diffrent rungs at diffrent heights for veriation).

You end up with a kinde body position you would get from a slight overhanging wall assuming your hangboard comes off around a foot with the bracket. You have to make a real effort to keep your body straight and not bend in under the board if you get what i mean. Really works the rest of your body alot aswell.

From their its imagination, kinde like shadow boxing. Start with both hand on the hang board and then pull in so your chest is touching it and then reach up with 1 hand (adjutst your feet befor hand so that its confortable and you can hold the position atleast 5 seconds) Drop that hand back down and start again with the next hand. Millions of diffrent patterns you can do by using diffrent foot heights/hangboard holds, you can flag train and all sorts with it...

I use this setup with a campus board, so i do actually have rungs to go upto... although i would much rather be doing it on a hangboard with a greater variation of holds. Alternitively i will in the near future bolt some holds onto it aswell.. and then switch them out when my endurence has got over them.

Anyway i tried and tested it and it is very close to real climbing. Its worth doing if you can get it right. << i realise this statement will generate 10 posts of why i fail at life and so so [insert insert random anoyying american white girl who says ''what ever'']

Ofc climbing 3-5 times a week is much better.. but thats not an option for most of us (who dont still live in mums basement).


(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 1, 2010, 8:17 AM)


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