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peytonweiler
Aug 26, 2010, 7:32 AM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2010
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So I went on a week long trip and was climbing 6+ hours a day. The last day my right arm was hurting from my middle finger up. I rested one day then hit the gym and climbed hard. the next day I went to the gym and experienced the WORST pain in my right arm. I skipped the gym yesterday but last night I woke up with pain in my arm so bad I took like two different painkillers.
ANYWAY, how do I recover, and quickly? It just feels like a really REALLY bad muscle ache. I want to climb as soon as possible. I was thinking about resting for two days... any advice?
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potreroed
Aug 26, 2010, 7:51 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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You need to learn how to rest. The best climbers I know never climb more than 2 days without taking a rest. Sounds like you might have a pinched nerve. You need about 5 days rest with painkillers and some kind of anti-inflammatory. Hopefully it isn't tendonitis, in which case you'll need about 5 months of rest!!
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scottek67
Aug 26, 2010, 9:09 AM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2008
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you don't need rest... you can sleep when you're dead. you just need better painkillers! 
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onceahardman
Aug 27, 2010, 2:36 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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In reply to: ANYWAY, how do I recover, and quickly?
If it really is a "bad muscle ache", or Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness (DOMS), it should peak in about 24 hours, and return to normal in about 72 hours.
There really is no actual "cure" for DOMS. It appears to be inflammatory, and is definitely not caused by lactic acid.
If it is not gone in about 72 hours, I'd suggest it is not DOMS, but instead something else, probably something worse, like muscle strain. (Strain = Tear)
Rest, but keep it moving. Range of motion of the wrists and hands, with no resistance. Ice can provide pretty good pain relief, without the possible chemical effects caused by NSAIDS.
There is a necessary time course for healing damaged tissue. Bone heals in 4-8 weeks. Muscle can be 2-12 weeks, depending on severity and location. Connective (scar) tissue needs to form for healing to occur. Better to go slowly and get a quality repair, than to have a chronic injury.
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