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blueeyedclimber
Aug 23, 2010, 3:37 PM
Post #326 of 1159
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We did not go climbing this weekend but got to the Gunks last week. Despite some showers last Sunday, we got in a fair amount of climbing. Tiff led Double Crack, p1 of Carbs and Caffeine, Bold-ville, p1 of Filipina and p1 of The Spring. I led p1 of Lisa, p2 of Carbs and Caffeine, p2 of Filipina, p1 of The Winter, p2 of the Spring, and Frustration Syndrome.
In total, 6 pitches on Sat and 5 on Sunday. We would got more in on Saturday, but I had my heart set on C and C, and we waited for about 45 minutes while someone struggled on it. Finally, we decide to go do something else and come back to it. We went and did the first pitch of Lisa and when we came back the second was just starting up the second pitch. We figured we could start getting ready for it, so we flaked the ropes and I racked up. Given how he struggled on it, I was expecting it to be hard (which it was). But not that hard. Despite a hang at the crux and a fall at the endurance crux (which is harder the taller you are), i thought it wasn't that hard and did not spend too much time on it. I'll get it next time.
Was a good weekend and we are going back next week.
Josh
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 23, 2010, 3:46 PM
Post #327 of 1159
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losbill wrote: Gail --- Showed up Saturday evening looking for a steak dinner. No one home. Some rumor about a wedding?!!?! Settled for scoring some booty approach shoes we found on your front porch!! Regarding Wrist P2, quite the 5.6! Don't think there is any secret. Feet are there, at least for me, low or high with low being better for me; just hard to see due to the bulge in the rock at your waist. Sorry you got washed out. Greg and I had three very good days T-Sa. Just cruised, looking to get my feet back under me after the HHH doldrums. Highlight for me was a flash of P1 of Birdland. Very fun, very satisfying crux to figure out. Greg manned up and did a nice lead of P2 despite not being near top form due to recent illness. Beat myself up top roping To Be or Not To Be to put a finish to the trip. Came within 2 inches of getting the first crux. Need to get the feet just bit higher. I think the key will be figuring out how to make a slightly higher grip on the sloper work. --- Bill
Hey Bill, sorry we were not home. Actually, I screwed up the wedding dates, it's this weekend! We were out climbing until 8ish, so, sorry we missed you. Congrats on Birdland, it's a climb I need to lead as well. To Be or NOt To Be...that is tough on the fingers, I did some laps up that a few weeks ago, it was pretty darn hard.
I am going to do Wrist again, this time I will earnestly search for feet. Does it seem harder than a normal 5.6 traverse? Think Thin Slabs Direct...don't you think the P3 traverse is easier on that than Wrist? Hell the dangler looks easier!!!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 24, 2010, 12:47 PM
Post #328 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: losbill wrote: Gail --- Showed up Saturday evening looking for a steak dinner. No one home. Some rumor about a wedding?!!?! Settled for scoring some booty approach shoes we found on your front porch!! Regarding Wrist P2, quite the 5.6! Don't think there is any secret. Feet are there, at least for me, low or high with low being better for me; just hard to see due to the bulge in the rock at your waist. Sorry you got washed out. Greg and I had three very good days T-Sa. Just cruised, looking to get my feet back under me after the HHH doldrums. Highlight for me was a flash of P1 of Birdland. Very fun, very satisfying crux to figure out. Greg manned up and did a nice lead of P2 despite not being near top form due to recent illness. Beat myself up top roping To Be or Not To Be to put a finish to the trip. Came within 2 inches of getting the first crux. Need to get the feet just bit higher. I think the key will be figuring out how to make a slightly higher grip on the sloper work. --- Bill Hey Bill, sorry we were not home. Actually, I screwed up the wedding dates, it's this weekend! We were out climbing until 8ish, so, sorry we missed you. Congrats on Birdland, it's a climb I need to lead as well. To Be or NOt To Be...that is tough on the fingers, I did some laps up that a few weeks ago, it was pretty darn hard. I am going to do Wrist again, this time I will earnestly search for feet. Does it seem harder than a normal 5.6 traverse? Think Thin Slabs Direct...don't you think the P3 traverse is easier on that than Wrist? Hell the dangler looks easier!!!
I had my own 5.6 adventure on Shit Creek. P1 is, um, stiff for a warm-up.
Yeah, good three days with Bill. Was very productive. Glad he pushed me to do P2 of Birdland, even though I'd done it before. Wasn't feeling strong and did OK.
Thanks for babysitting the shoes. They look as if they were well-fed. My appreciation goes far.
Sorry if you texted. I dropped my phone in the drink at Split Rock. Not sure if it will work or not when I get home. It wasn't turned on when it went for the swim. Fingers are crossed, but I know life seems slim for the poor guy.
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rangerrob
Aug 25, 2010, 1:05 PM
Post #329 of 1159
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Shit Creek felt stiff for a 5.6 warmup because it is 5.7, and a sturdy one at that! Personally I can't wait until the climbing gets under way here.....sound slike Friday is going to kick things off. High of 72! That's still a little warm for me, but hey I'll take it. There so so many projects out there for this fall i don't even know where to begin. Actually I do. I need to get my noodle arms back in shape first. I haven't climbed anything significant since early June.
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 25, 2010, 1:40 PM
Post #330 of 1159
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rangerrob wrote: High of 72! That's still a little warm for me, but hey I'll take it.
Rangerrob, do you climb all winter? I am vowing to climb this winter. I didn't try last winter because of my foot surgery. What temp is too cold for you to climb (rock not ice)? How often do you climb in the winter?
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 25, 2010, 3:22 PM
Post #331 of 1159
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If only TIff would post here, we could get 3 people on the same page who have CCK as their profile pic 
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 25, 2010, 3:30 PM
Post #333 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: If only TIff would post here, we could get 3 people on the same page who have CCK as their profile pic I am going to get a dangler photo...or a nude Shockley's photo...ummm...strike that, no one wants to see a 50+ year old woman naked!!!
Well, since you brought it up. I have said many times that The "Dangler" is a much more appropriate climb to do sans clothes.
On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it!
Josh
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 25, 2010, 3:43 PM
Post #334 of 1159
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blueeyedclimber wrote: On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it! Josh
Ha ha...hey you already have a place to stay this weekend, you don't have to flatter me!!! See you Friday night.
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darkgift06
Aug 25, 2010, 3:52 PM
Post #336 of 1159
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Just be sure to bring a few valley giants to cover the naughty bits lol
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wonderwoman
Aug 25, 2010, 3:53 PM
Post #337 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it! Josh Ha ha...hey you already have a place to stay this weekend, you don't have to flatter me!!! See you Friday night.
Yeah, I don't buy this 50 claim, either!
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johnwesely
Aug 25, 2010, 4:13 PM
Post #338 of 1159
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blueeyedclimber wrote: gblauer wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: If only TIff would post here, we could get 3 people on the same page who have CCK as their profile pic I am going to get a dangler photo...or a nude Shockley's photo...ummm...strike that, no one wants to see a 50+ year old woman naked!!! Well, since you brought it up. I have said many times that The "Dangler" is a much more appropriate climb to do sans clothes. On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it! Josh
Erect Direction is even better.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 25, 2010, 4:24 PM
Post #339 of 1159
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johnwesely wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: gblauer wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: If only TIff would post here, we could get 3 people on the same page who have CCK as their profile pic I am going to get a dangler photo...or a nude Shockley's photo...ummm...strike that, no one wants to see a 50+ year old woman naked!!! Well, since you brought it up. I have said many times that The "Dangler" is a much more appropriate climb to do sans clothes. On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it! Josh Erect Direction is even better.
Tru dat.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 26, 2010, 3:29 PM
Post #340 of 1159
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rangerrob wrote: Shit Creek felt stiff for a 5.6 warmup because it is 5.7, and a sturdy one at that! Personally I can't wait until the climbing gets under way here.....sound slike Friday is going to kick things off. High of 72! That's still a little warm for me, but hey I'll take it. There so so many projects out there for this fall i don't even know where to begin. Actually I do. I need to get my noodle arms back in shape first. I haven't climbed anything significant since early June.
ah, sorry, I speaking of P1, which is supposedly 5.6. I found the first traverse, at the triangular roof, to be rather cruxy while the second traverse (the supposed crux according to Dick) to simply be punpy. The 5.7 pitch is P3, which I didn't lead.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 26, 2010, 3:30 PM
Post #341 of 1159
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johnwesely wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: gblauer wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: If only TIff would post here, we could get 3 people on the same page who have CCK as their profile pic I am going to get a dangler photo...or a nude Shockley's photo...ummm...strike that, no one wants to see a 50+ year old woman naked!!! Well, since you brought it up. I have said many times that The "Dangler" is a much more appropriate climb to do sans clothes. On another note, there's NO WAY you're 50+. I don't beiieve it! Josh Erect Direction is even better.
we already saw gail on erect direction... 
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 26, 2010, 4:40 PM
Post #342 of 1159
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johnwesely wrote: we already saw gail on erect direction...
But I wasn't naked!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 26, 2010, 4:48 PM
Post #343 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: johnwesely wrote: we already saw gail on erect direction... But I wasn't naked!
ahhh...but the pure exaltation was!
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rangerrob
Aug 28, 2010, 12:17 AM
Post #344 of 1159
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Gail I do climb all winter, but most of the winter is taken up with ice climbing. That being said, I will climb on rock in sunny weather down to around 25 or so. The temp on the wall in direct sunlight will be 10-20 degress warmer, and quite pleasant.
There are plenty of mixed climbing opportunities in The Gunks as well. The problem is that you need very specific conditions for the ice to come in on the the cliffs, and once it comes in it tends to bake out with a day of full sun. It's ephemeral at best.
RR
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losbill
Aug 28, 2010, 1:16 AM
Post #345 of 1159
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Gail --- I climb year round at Crow Hill. A bit further north than the Gunks. When it is really cold 10 - 30 degrees quick bouldering problems. Although some leading, not by me, got done in the sun at 9 and 16 degrees F this year. Amazing what you can climb wearing neoprene construction gloves and Asolo hiking boots.
Gets up into the upper 30's and 40's we aid. 50's on up we TR. Occasionally on a still day with temps 50's on up and dry rock we will lead. With no wind and full sun we have climbed in T-shirts in January.
BTW looking for a partner for Labor Day Friday. Are you available? Anyone you can hook me up with?
Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Aug 28, 2010, 2:37 AM)
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 28, 2010, 1:58 AM
Post #346 of 1159
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Yes, I am available on Friday before labor day. My friend Manny is coming in from AZ and I will pick him up on Thursday night. If you don't mind a party of three, then you are welcome to climb with us.
I really want to climb this winter. If it's warm, sunny, no wind I would like to try.
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 28, 2010, 3:50 AM
Post #347 of 1159
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A beautiful Fall day today...even though it's still summer
Wow, what a day; the sun was shining, the temperature was perfect. The rock was a wee bit slimy in the shade during our morning climbs. I think the righteous rain really made things rather wet over the past few days. The ground was almost muddy in several spots and I found a lot of moist horizontals.
Anyways, we warmed up on Pas de Deux and Drunkards. Boy that P2 roof on Drunkards is a ton of fun. Where else but the gunks right? It's juggy, roofy, fun pulling. My goal today (after warming up) was to get on some new climbs. So we did Size Matters, 10C to the right of Rusty Trifle. I thought it was really soft, but, I wasn't leading either. Following was a breeze through a very delicate traverse. We then hit Ruby Saturday Direct. It looks kind of dirty, but, in fact it was really a nice climb. There is ground fall potential until you gain a very good horizontal. We could not find the 5.9+ G rated P2. So, we bailed left on the Anguish rap and moved on. We moved right to Star Action. That is so worth all of the stars it gets! Great face climbing leads to a fun crimpy roof with a delicate move into the corner. What an awesome climb. Still wanting more we ran up P1 of MF. I pulled the 10a variation only to find that my partner had placed gear 12 feet to my right. One very thin traverse later, I was back on the normal route. We decided to do P2 of Birdie Party. It's a big roof which requires a heel hook to pull the next moves. Very burly, just my kind of climb. I loved it!
We called it a day because I had to go to a pre-wedding party at 630. I got home and got all gussied up and went to find my phone...alas...no phone! I figured I left it at the cliff, so I hightailed it back to the starmaster and hiked back up to the Mac wall. No phone anywhere...Did I mention I did this in my party dress and sneakers? I went to the party and figured that my phone would turn up eventually. Nice party, got there so late that all the food was gone. Only cake. So, I ate cake for dinner, I have had worse dinners. Anyways, I got home, emptied my pack, still no phone. ONe last ditch effort, I dialed my phone number and guess what? I heard it ring!!! Woo hoo, it was somewhere close. I actually found it in the side pocket of my pack. I am such a nimrod, I NEVER put my phone in there. I swear little rock gremlins hid it from me!
So all is well that ends well. I am tired from climbing and partying. I am looking forward to a deep sleep and then up in the AM to climb again. We are thinking about Peterskill, I have never been there.
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johnwesely
Aug 29, 2010, 1:56 PM
Post #348 of 1159
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Yesterday, I had a great day of sport climbing with my long time climbing partner. It was his first time climbing outside since he had his baby five months ago, but somehow, despite him only having two hours of gym time a week, he had his best day of climbing ever. He normally has the worst lead head I have ever seen. He will usually take at a bolt when he is not even pumped, but yesterday, he didn't even take once. It was great.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 29, 2010, 10:48 PM
Post #349 of 1159
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Hey Gail, thanks for your hospitality this weekend. It was so nice having a quiet place to camp.
As for our weekend, we got on a bunch of climbs we had never done before. Saturday, we did Wasp (5.9), Falled on Account of Strain(5.10b), Art's Route (5.9), and Wedgetables (5.10a). All good routes. Tiff and I both took leader falls on Falled on account of Strain, Tiff on the first pitch and me on the 10b pitch. I usually onsite that grade but it's hard to find the exit move on the last roof. I went too far right and had to backtrack and take gear out when I realized I went too far. Meanwhile the pumpclock is ticking. It is STEEP! I realized that I might not have the energy to pull the final roof so I tried to down climb and fell. I had Tiff lower me back to the anchor, I untied, pulled the rope and then sent in style.
Today (Sunday) we had a lower key day. Tiff led Eastertime Too(5.8) and then I was going to do Elder Cleavage (5.10, 4 pitches), but the thought being at belay stations in today's sun was less than appealing. So I decided to try a hard single pitch. I settled on Criss (5.11a, my ass). I had been on it once before and I STILL can't do the crux move. I got up it (with a little cheating) and Tiff and I both toproped it. I still couldn't do it on f-ing toprope. After that we decided to do something that was recommended to us. A climb called Disney Point, a 5.10 variation to Disneyland. It was super fun. It was like a slightly harder version of the Dangler, complete with heel-hooking and great hand holds.
After that, we were exhausted and decided to call it a day.
Josh
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Aug 29, 2010, 10:53 PM)
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LostinMaine
Aug 30, 2010, 12:31 AM
Post #350 of 1159
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A beautiful weekend in NY. I spent the day playing around on Bald Mountain in Old Forge. I have live about an hour and a half from this 200' cliff for a few years, but have never heard much about it and hadn't climbed there before. I took a friend who has only climbed twice before. We started a a 120' 5.3 called Easy Squeeze for my friend to learn belaying a leader and cleaning a route. He did well, so we hiked over and climbed a nice 5.5 hand crack called Where's the Booty. Directly next to it was a 5.6 off-width, a wonderful short route called Zigzag. I didn't have enough large gear, so it was a dicey lead for someone like me who gumbies off-widths. We finished toproping a strenuous layback inside corner crack called Cardiac Corner, which has the infamous Adirondacks grade of 5.9+. To my surprise, my friend made it up with only one fall.
Overall, it was a great day to be on the rocks, discover a new cliff, watch my friend on his first real climb, and get some air under my feet.
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