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wonderwoman


Aug 29, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Thanks again for your hospitality, Gail!  It was great to chill out with you & Mitch by the fire.  We should try to rope  up together sometime this fall.

Josh pretty much summed up our climbs.  I took 2 falls and 1 big whipper on p1 on Falled on Account of Strain  that lifted Josh off the ground & left me with a nasty burn on the back of my thigh where I apparently made contact with a sling.  Owie!

After that climb I realized that I could also see my big toe poking through my shoe & that my sole was ripping off.  That was the end of my leading for the day, but I followed Josh up Art's Route (BURLY!!!) where we found a big snake skin.  He then led Wegetables & we high tailed it back to Rock & Snow so I could purchase my third pair of shoes this climbing season.  

I got myself a pair of Muiras, then we had dinner with our friend Jim before heading back to hang with Gail & Mitch.  We were all exhausted, but had a good time sharing our climbing stories.

On Sunday I broke my Muiras in on Easter Time Too.  The start was burly & greasy, but I did manage to get my redpoint.  

The guys next to us had a baby snake fall off the route they were climbing.  We all went to look at this cute little worm that was lying still on it's back, apparently stunned from the fall.  For a second, I thought it was dead until it suddenly flipped over to show us the obvious diamond on the back of it's head as it made a bee line for the nearest hole.  I decided that I would pass on trying that route (Day Tripper), as appealing as it looked.

On our way to Criss & before we got to Birdland, we heard large rocks either breaking loose or being rolled from the top of the cliff.  I don't know which was the actual cause, but it was close enough & sounded large enough to cause me to run.  It definately got my adrenaline pumping!

So it was an excellent & exciting weekend, filled with quality friends & quality rock.  What else can a gal ask for?


gblauer
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Aug 29, 2010, 7:05 PM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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We were the people you hate at the cliff

Yes, we were loud, we hung top ropes everywhere and we never moved. Yeah, we were the people that you hate climbing next to.

Mitch and I went to Peterskill with some friends who are very familiar with the area. Since they limit the number of climbers at Peterskill, we arrived as they opened. The parking lot was already 1/2 full, but, we didn't see a lot of climbers.

We hiked into the cliff and Pete and Mitch went to set TRs from the top. There was another group setting up top ropes as well. They had several ropes among them and we decided to join forces and take over the whole area. We had ropes set up on Golden Dreams 9+, Fickle Fingers 10B, Skinky American 9, Slot Machine 6 and Skink 6-8, very height dependent.


The climbing was fun, although I would have been better off leading rather than TRing. With each passing day and the summer drawing to a close I fear that I will not meet my trad climbing objectives. Truth is, I should have lead Golden Dreams. It's a g-rated 9+, great gear the entire way up.

We didn't get out of bed until noon today. We figured it was too late for us to climb (we had to head home by 5) so rather than climb we went skydiving at the Ranch. Although we did not have a reservation we were able to walk in and jump within 45 minutes. Turns out it was the Ranch's 30th anniversiary and they were running 3 planes. We had a ton of fun.

Still looking for a climbing partner in Red Rocks...anyone game?


(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 29, 2010, 7:30 PM)


dagibbs


Aug 30, 2010, 9:45 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Still looking for a climbing partner in Red Rocks...anyone game?

I've been wanting to get to Red Rocks for a while. When?


gblauer
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Aug 31, 2010, 4:20 AM
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Sept 10-12th


dagibbs


Aug 31, 2010, 6:00 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Sept 10-12th

Sadly, I will be in Belgium at that time. I hope you find someone and have fun.


Gmburns2000


Sep 1, 2010, 12:49 PM
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wow, I've missed a bunch of fun times. Was out with Bill in the 'Gunks and this is the TR: Consecutive Days and I'm Ready to Go?

Bill - I thought you were climbing with Melanie?


losbill


Sep 1, 2010, 5:46 PM
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Yes I am climbing with Melanie. I'm also climbing with Gail, Manny, Kurt, Rachel and Rob. Going to be a busy weekend.

Going down early Friday to snag a campsite at MUA. Then off to Bonnie's area to catch up with Gail and Manny. Saturday and Sunday with Melanie, Rachel, Kurt & Rob; and perhaps Manny.

Enjoyed your trip report of our three days in the Gunks. Mixed emotions about the omission of how I got 20 plus feet up Snooky's Return without a rack!


losbill


Sep 1, 2010, 5:54 PM
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John Wesley and LostinMaine - Enjoyed both your posts. Like many climbers if your partner is having a good day so are you! Nice to see some posts other than the Gunkies.


Gmburns2000


Sep 1, 2010, 6:00 PM
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losbill wrote:
Yes I am climbing with Melanie. I'm also climbing with Gail, Manny, Kurt, Rachel and Rob. Going to be a busy weekend.

Going down early Friday to snag a campsite at MUA. Then off to Bonnie's area to catch up with Gail and Manny. Saturday and Sunday with Melanie, Rachel, Kurt & Rob; and perhaps Manny.

Enjoyed your trip report of our three days in the Gunks. Mixed emotions about the omission of how I got 20 plus feet up Snooky's Return without a rack!

I TOTALLY FORGOT ABOUT THAT!!!! DAMMIT!!!!! Laugh


aalin


Sep 5, 2010, 11:23 PM
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Well, the subject well, new ideas, I support what! Hope you can make more friends forum which, for more information and knowledge! Also want to express their views more!


http://www.eluxury-brands.com/


boymeetsrock


Sep 7, 2010, 5:38 AM
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How dare you spam our thread !!!!ON3!!! Mad


blueeyedclimber


Sep 7, 2010, 7:28 AM
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aalin wrote:
Well, the subject well, new ideas, I support what! Hope you can make more friends forum which, for more information and knowledge! Also want to express their views more!

GET LOST!


gblauer
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Sep 7, 2010, 5:13 PM
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Labor Day Weekend = Exhausted

Climbed Friday
Drove to Boston and back on Saturday
Climbed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday.

Flying to Lancaster PA now, Atlanta tomorrow and Vegas on Monday.

No rest for the weary.

We had awesome weather at the Gunks, I enjoyed the privilege of showing Sonso45 the Gunks. He loved every climb (of course we did all the three star classics) and is eager to come back and try some more.

Unfortunately the weekend ended with some lady backing into my parked car. She really creamed my trunk!


blueeyedclimber


Sep 9, 2010, 7:28 AM
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Thanks again, Gail, for the hospitality.

I have never been to the Gunks on Labor Day Weekend. Holy business!

Despite the crowds and despite Tiff not feeling well on Sunday and Monday, we had a decent weekend.

We rolled into town early for us, on Friday. I led Apoplexy and Red Cabbage (both 5.9), neither of which i had led before. Tiff had led both of them but I just followed last time. Then we headed to Gails to meet up for dinner.

Saturday was great! We started on Ridiculissima, 5.10d. Tiff led the first pitch of Directissima to start which we linked into the climb. I led the 10d pitch and the 5.8 finish. We rappelled, grabbed a bite to eat and then got back on. Tiff wanted to lead Directissima. Since she had already led the first pitch, I took that, and she led the rest, finishing on the the 3rd pitch of High E.

It was starting to get later in the, so I wanted to lead something at the Mac wall, which I had fell on previously (Try Again, 5.10b). On our way down the cliff, we ran into some friends and made dinner plans. Now it seemed we probably only had time for 1 or 2 more climbs. On my way to the Mac wall I stopped suddenly and looked up. We were in the Welcome to The Gunks area and I remember their being a couple 11's here that I wanted to try. I dropped my pack, turned to Tiff and said, "I changed my mind, I wanna do this." "What is it?" she said. "Fall to Grace (5.11 b/c)."

It was HARD! There are 2 distinct cruxes. The first one I fell a few times and then finally got. After you get a pretty good hold, you make one easy move to a horizontal under a roof. Here is the second crux. I could not figure it out. Up and down up and down. A fall here, grab the sling there. There was a hold (not sure how good it was) that I could not get to. Maybe you're supposed to dyno. Wasn't ready to commit to that, so I eventually traversed to Welcome to the Gunks and finished up the last 3 roofs of that with my tail between my legs. That climb didn't seem too easy either but finished it without falling (I HAD done that one before).

I took a while on that one so now it was time to meet up with losbill and others for dinner. We had food, frosty beverages and stories galore.

Sunday did not turn out as well. Tiff said she wanted to lead Snooky's Return, so we headed for that. I hadn't really done anything in that immediate area for a while. We showed up and it was BUSY! Someone was on Snooky's so Tiff opted to start on Friends and Lovers (5.9). She was doing great! I believe she just made it through the crux and then a rope falls right in her face! After some choice words by Tiff, we hear a mouse-like voice say "sorry." She still managed to get the onsight!

Snooky's finally opens up, so I start getting the ropes ready, when she tells me she doesn't feel good. We end up leaving and finishing our climbing for that day.

Monday, Tiff still doesn't feel well, but tells me that she can still belay. I say ok and start to think about straight up climbs that I can clean on rappel. We head to the Mac wall and I lead the first pitch of Birdie Party (5.8+). Then I feel like trying Try Again. Fell! Dammit! How is this possible for me to fall on a 10b that I have done before! I did determine that I was using bad foot beta AND I was tired and sore...but STILLL! ARRRGGHHH! I didn't feel like trying it AGAIN so instead I left the rope on the anchor and TRed Fly Again (5.11d) with the hopes of scoping out gear placements (there weren't many). That would be a serious lead. I sent it clean up to the crux and it took me 2 tries to send the crux. Fun climb.

I just wish Tiff were feeling better.

I think next Labor Day, we will probably avoid the Gunks, though!

Josh


jakedatc


Sep 9, 2010, 8:55 AM
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Funny Josh, Doc and I didn't really have issues with crowds and stayed on routes easier than you! And one time a crowd actually sped things up because after we did Hans Puss we joined forces at the top of Arrow to build a full 60m rap to get all the way down in one. Got lucky i suppose that i was heading up Modern times before that other group showed up and only had to wait for one party to finish Ants line. And a really nice group was just getting off Something Interesting when we did that.

sunday we went to the Nears and other than a guide not really communicating well with jeff we had issues at all.

we did meet this weird couple on the High E rap but they seemed mostly harmless.


blueeyedclimber


Sep 9, 2010, 9:00 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
Funny Josh, Doc and I didn't really have issues with crowds and stayed on routes easier than you!

The crowds I speak of were mostly when we were trying to find parking. Also, Tiff had her sights on Snooky's, so I did break my rule of not climbing in certain areas on busy weekends. The GUnks are big, you can ALWAYS avoid the crowds as long as you don't mind walking and you don't have your heart set on a particular climb.


In reply to:
we did meet this weird couple on the High E rap but they seemed mostly harmless.

Funny. So did we Tongue


jakedatc


Sep 9, 2010, 9:27 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
Funny Josh, Doc and I didn't really have issues with crowds and stayed on routes easier than you!

The crowds I speak of were mostly when we were trying to find parking. Also, Tiff had her sights on Snooky's, so I did break my rule of not climbing in certain areas on busy weekends. The GUnks are big, you can ALWAYS avoid the crowds as long as you don't mind walking and you don't have your heart set on a particular climb.


In reply to:
we did meet this weird couple on the High E rap but they seemed mostly harmless.

Funny. So did we Tongue

ah.. benefits of camping at Slime.. despite the major wind noise fri night and the idling ambulance engines saturday still can roll out of bed onto the carriage road.


gblauer
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Sep 13, 2010, 2:41 PM
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Woo Hoo, A new climbing partner!

My friend Manny was in from AZ over the Labor Day holiday. It was his first time at the gunks and we had a great 6 days of classic three star climbing. On our last day of climbing together he casually mentioned that a (hard core) climbing friend had moved to Philadelphia and that I should reach out to her. He suggested that the two of us might just get along.

Well, I called his friend and we went to our local sport climbing quarry in Birdsboro on Saturday. I figured we would put up a few climbs and be done in a few hours or so. Well, it turns out that we were amazingly compatible and we put up 11 pitches each; ranging from 9's to 11's. It was great to climb with someone, who was incredibly capable, yet at the same time amazingly cheerful, humble, fun and didn't take herself too seriously. I am hoping that we can climb together throughout the fall and that I will learn much from her vast aid, sport, trad and mountaineering experience. Is she the answer to my trad mentor prayers? I sure hope so!

Here's to new partners...Hurrah!


(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 13, 2010, 2:47 PM)


darkgift06


Sep 14, 2010, 9:12 AM
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Went to Yak Peak this weekend had a great trip here is the video http://www.vimeo.com/14949096


boymeetsrock


Sep 14, 2010, 1:16 PM
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Getting Back Into It [In reply to]
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This summer has been an effort to rediscover my climbing self. I've been getting up to the Gunks as much as possible as well as hitting the climbing gym. All this with the intent to culminate my year with a couple of tall routes up in the Dacks.

Well the Dacks trip fell through at the last minute, but that was really a blessing in disguise.

Last weekend I headed up to the Lake George area to partake in the Southern Adirondack Climbers Fest http://www.mtnsideview.com/sadkrock.html. What a great time. Not only did I get to meet some RC regulars, but we got a tour of the new action in the south Lake George area. I got on a few climbs. The running joke was that all the climbs were 5.7+. All in all it really felt good to re-establish my onsite grade and to gain some comfort in picking up the pace a bit.

Those guys are really doing a good job of establishing some new areas and documenting the new and the "historic" climbs. If you climb in the Dacks at all I recommend the Adirondack Rock guide. It is well put together. Also check out adirondackrock.com as new routes are going in fast.

So I had a great time climbing eating and drinking, and am looking forward to climbing with some new found friends.


gblauer
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Sep 14, 2010, 2:00 PM
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Wow, I didn't know they were having a climbers fest. That would have been a great way to work my way up to that area.

Glad you had some fun.


boymeetsrock


Sep 14, 2010, 2:04 PM
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From what I gathered they do it every year the weekend after labor day. Get ready now for next years western Dacks location.

Would have been fun to meet you. You would have recognized a few faces. It is definitely a good crew.


losbill


Sep 14, 2010, 3:46 PM
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Chad --- Enjoyed the video. Looked like a good day! Reminded of our Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire. Big slab of granite, highway below, dampness!

Gail the SAdkRF is the premier climbing event of the year in the Northeast!!! How could you possibly not be aware of it!!!!

It was a great time!!! Many thanks to Jay, Todd, Jeremy, Doc, Tom and all the others that made it an outstanding event. Great people, great climbing, lots of booty, lots of food, great weather.

Ventured out to New Buck Saturday morning. Highlight was top roping a climb called Pocket Pool and having a real, real hard time getting the crux. Fell once and then finally got it. Doc kept insisting it was a 5.10b. I kept thinking I was really missing something. He got on it, got it, came down, immediately consulted the guidebook and sheepishly informed me it was a 5.11b.

We hiked out and went up the road to join Jeremy, Jay and the rest of the crew at Shelving Rock. Don't bother. It isn't in the book. Here it the website with the description http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm

It was great. Beautiful day, beautiful crag, great routes and world-class view of Lake George. Rock Lobster was the great. There are a lot of great lines there. I will be back.

Stayed too late, Mark's fault, and missed the spaghetti dinner. Did have about 17 meatballs before heading for the slide show. Todd you have got to start locking the kitchen!!

Missed Jeremy's presentation of the locale for next year. I believe it will be in the Caroga Lake area. We did catch Tom Rosecrans' excellent presentation of "Pumori on a Shoestring". What a great adventure. Back to RockSport where Todd opened up the kitchen again for the late arrivals, Jeremiah and Greg. They were on Day 7 of a 11-day tour of Northeast. They had been up at Poko doing Bloody Mary and Fastest Gun. Prior they had been at Rumney, Cathedral/Whitehorse and Acadia. They sat down for dinner as did about 10 of the rest of us. Couldn't let them eat alone, could we?

Next morning wound down at Stewart's Ledge. Jeremiah, who now lives in Colorado, was complaining a bit about the humidity while climbing very hard. We all told him he didn't know what humidity was and that we found the day very refreshing. He should have been in the Northeast in July!

The routes at Stewart's aren't long but they are full value. Favorite was Lithium. Probably because it was the only 5.10 I could get up with any sort of style. Todd made sure I got on The Entertainer (5.8) one of the signature climbs of the crag. Thanks Todd.

Enjoyed a TR Crackatoa (5.9+). Would like to get back to lead it. Definitely seemed to be a Daks 5.9. No stars in the guidebook. I might vote for one or two.

Jen, incentivized by promise of the last two chocolate chip cookies, headed up Crackatoa to get the final top rope setup. Tough climb in the light drizzle that began as she headed up. Jen hit the ground and received her well earned reward. The skies then opened up right at 2:30 PM as predicted by Jay and a great weekend was done!

Wyeth, good to finally get a chance to climb with you. It was fun sharing "our" .4 cam. See you at the Gunks in two weeks. I am looking forward to my beer at the Otter.


c4c


Sep 14, 2010, 4:17 PM
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Re: [losbill] Getting Back Into It [In reply to]
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Bill- great to see you again. glad that you enjoyed yourself.
Wyeth-great to meet you and climb a bunch of 5.7+ climbs with you.

Caroga Lake area is in the South Central Adks and looks to be another amazing venue.

Hopefully I will see you both before then.

BTW Wyeth, did you notice the thread about the figure 8 follow through w/ yosemite finish?


(This post was edited by c4c on Sep 14, 2010, 4:19 PM)


c4c


Sep 14, 2010, 4:23 PM
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http://www.climberism.com/...climbing-festival-2/

Some good pictures of shelving rock on Climberism.com

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