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how to send a dyno finger jam?
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gumbe


Aug 29, 2010, 7:34 PM
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how to send a dyno finger jam?
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im working on a tr project thats 5-10ish. to get the first bomber finger lock, you have to use a few awkward slopers, and one tiny edge for a right foot thats at shoulder level -- cause there's an overhang. i think that if i give it my all, i do a dynamic move and lunge up a couple feet and jam my finger in the choke, being a newbe though, i'm worried about injury, cause i'll probably momentarly loose my feet, and be hanging of the second knuckle of my index finger, sounds pretty hardcore to me, any advice? btw it's z-crack leavenworth wa thanx


(This post was edited by gumbe on Aug 29, 2010, 7:42 PM)


rock_fencer


Aug 29, 2010, 7:43 PM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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learn to climb statically on slopers???

Tape may prevent you from loosing some skin


gumbe


Aug 29, 2010, 7:49 PM
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Re: [rock_fencer] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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thanks, my use of slopers may not be the appropriate adjative, there is actually sort of a handjam, good enough for me to use as a launch to get to the finger jam 1 foot or so above. i'm just not used to being ok with lunging a knuckle into a choke that i'll probably be hanging off entierly for a few seconds. kinda worried about dislocateing my finger or some kind of nasty injury (190lbs), i'm just wondering if these worries are well founded.


(This post was edited by gumbe on Aug 29, 2010, 7:56 PM)


rock_fencer


Aug 29, 2010, 7:57 PM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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find a way to lock off with the hand jam, smear your feet or something and move statically. The alternative is to not go knuckle deep.

If you can set the lock without essentially falling on it, i.e. the recoil of a dynamic move, then dont sweat swinging out. It will hold without too much pain

Hard to say really what i'd do without seeing a picture of the route in question.


gumbe


Aug 29, 2010, 8:07 PM
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Re: [rock_fencer] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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thanks! here's a link with some good pictures from mountainproject.com
http://www.mountainproject.com/...icle_creek/105825065


(This post was edited by gumbe on Aug 29, 2010, 8:23 PM)


malcolm777b


Aug 29, 2010, 8:42 PM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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gumbe wrote:
thanks! here's a link with some good pictures from mountainproject.com
http://www.mountainproject.com/...icle_creek/105825065

Oh, I hear that's a notorious sandbag. Watch someone who has the beta figured out before you go trying to dyno to that finger jam. From watching people on z-crack, the crux move involves rocking up on a high right foot and reaching for the finger jam.

Have you done St. Vitus dance, the 10d around the corner? That climb looks like it doesn't belong there.


gumbe


Aug 29, 2010, 8:53 PM
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Re: [malcolm777b] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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thanks man, sounds like going up there with someone who's got it down is the way to do it. i'd like to give st. vitus dance a shot soon, but being a newb - my priority is to get the crack climb'n down.


(This post was edited by gumbe on Aug 29, 2010, 8:55 PM)


malcolm777b


Aug 29, 2010, 9:56 PM
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gumbe wrote:
thanks man, sounds like going up there with someone who's got it down is the way to do it. i'd like to give st. vitus dance a shot soon, but being a newb - my priority is to get the crack climb'n down.

Tricky, sandbagged 10c doesn't sound like newb territory. Have you climbed the classic single pitch L-worth cracks?

Like:
Classic crack, deception crack, ski tracks crack, armed forces crack, cloud 9, celestial groove, meatgrinder, dogleg crack... That's a good start if you haven't done them.


irregularpanda


Aug 30, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Re: [malcolm777b] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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malcolm777b wrote:
gumbe wrote:
thanks man, sounds like going up there with someone who's got it down is the way to do it. i'd like to give st. vitus dance a shot soon, but being a newb - my priority is to get the crack climb'n down.

Tricky, sandbagged 10c doesn't sound like newb territory. Have you climbed the classic single pitch L-worth cracks?

Like:
Classic crack, deception crack, ski tracks crack, armed forces crack, cloud 9, celestial groove, meatgrinder, dogleg crack... That's a good start if you haven't done them.

This is the advice you should follow. Get the basics first, unless you want to lead a difficult to protect sandbag crack, with very specific beta.


jt512


Aug 30, 2010, 1:38 AM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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gumbe wrote:
im working on a tr project thats 5-10ish. to get the first bomber finger lock, you have to use a few awkward slopers, and one tiny edge for a right foot thats at shoulder level -- cause there's an overhang. i think that if i give it my all, i do a dynamic move and lunge up a couple feet and jam my finger in the choke, being a newbe though, i'm worried about injury, cause i'll probably momentarly loose my feet, and be hanging of the second knuckle of my index finger, sounds pretty hardcore to me, any advice? btw it's z-crack leavenworth wa thanx

Jesus, who thinks of these things?

T2, but don't feel bad. It's a logarithmic scale.

Jay


joeforte


Aug 30, 2010, 3:27 AM
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Re: [jt512] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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Very rarely is a dyno mandatory on 5.10 territory. You can almost always find a static way around it, as suggested above.


malcolm777b


Aug 30, 2010, 5:12 AM
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Re: [irregularpanda] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
malcolm777b wrote:
gumbe wrote:
thanks man, sounds like going up there with someone who's got it down is the way to do it. i'd like to give st. vitus dance a shot soon, but being a newb - my priority is to get the crack climb'n down.

Tricky, sandbagged 10c doesn't sound like newb territory. Have you climbed the classic single pitch L-worth cracks?

Like:
Classic crack, deception crack, ski tracks crack, armed forces crack, cloud 9, celestial groove, meatgrinder, dogleg crack... That's a good start if you haven't done them.

This is the advice you should follow. Get the basics first, unless you want to lead a difficult to protect sandbag crack, with very specific beta.
I should have mentioned that....multiple people HAVE decked from falling off the crux of z-crack.


gumbe


Aug 30, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Re: [malcolm777b] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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damn, thats scary! i'm on a solo tr syestm so i'm not to worried about decking...

yeah z crack is a little over my head, i've sent classic crack, deception, meat grinder... but it's cool to step into stuff thats over my head - carefully - thats why i didn't go for the dyno yesterday, i figured theres probably a slicker way.


camhead


Sep 12, 2010, 7:33 AM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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Like people said earlier, there is probably a static way to get to the finger jam.

However, if you do have to dyno or deadpoint to a fingerjam (which honestly is a skill that doesn't come up too often), you definitely want to have trained your lockoff skills, so that your arm muscles absorb the shock of the jam (almost like a screamer), rather than putting the full force onto your finger bones. This is especially true if you are going for a very sharp, positive lock. You don't this to happen, after all.


johnwesely


Sep 12, 2010, 9:24 AM
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camhead wrote:
Like people said earlier, there is probably a static way to get to the finger jam.

However, if you do have to dyno or deadpoint to a fingerjam (which honestly is a skill that doesn't come up too often), you definitely want to have trained your lockoff skills, so that your arm muscles absorb the shock of the jam (almost like a screamer), rather than putting the full force onto your finger bones. This is especially true if you are going for a very sharp, positive lock. You don't this to happen, after all.

How delightful.


gumbe


Sep 12, 2010, 11:16 AM
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thanks for all the helpful advice!!

i sent it on toprope the other day with my bro who led it.

pretty strenous, it's perhaps not an all out dyno, but a "powerglide" tricky stuff, especially since once stuck -standing up quickly is nessecary to take stress off the finger jam, but standing up relases the cam... but there is a sidepull to fall into then a good handjam out to the left, i guess i just got to get used to climbing quickly, i'm used to taking my time and getting cozy on my moves.

tapeing the finger helped a ton, i think it would have hurt a lot if i didn't...

the next tr project i'm workng on (besides getting slicker on z crack) is a super highball boulder problem "the sword" up the iceicle. i gave it a lot of effort yesterday on toprope, but the crux is thin and overhanging, i probabaly need to work on backsteping.


(This post was edited by gumbe on Sep 12, 2010, 11:22 AM)


subantz


Sep 12, 2010, 11:34 AM
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Re: [gumbe] how to send a dyno finger jam? [In reply to]
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gumbe wrote:
im working on a tr project thats 5-10ish. to get the first bomber finger lock, you have to use a few awkward slopers, and one tiny edge for a right foot thats at shoulder level -- cause there's an overhang. i think that if i give it my all, i do a dynamic move and lunge up a couple feet and jam my finger in the choke, being a newbe though, i'm worried about injury, cause i'll probably momentarly loose my feet, and be hanging of the second knuckle of my index finger, sounds pretty hardcore to me, any advice? btw it's z-crack leavenworth wa thanx

Crazypetie is this you...


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