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Mild finger injury?
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chriisu


Aug 29, 2010, 10:54 PM
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Mild finger injury?
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I've been climbing for like two years and this may be the first injury for me. Yesterday I were at gym bouldering the usual way. Did the warmups and some stretching before and after climbing. I really didn't notice much anything during the whole session. I were quite tired at the end but I didn't feel like I had overdone anything.

After I got home to my computer I occasionally felt a small pain in my right hand ring finger when typing on keyboard. First I didn't actually notice it but few hours afterwards I started to wonder if really means something. There was no clear swelling to be seen. I put some cold gel on it and went to bed. Now in the morning the pain feels quite the same. It hurts a bit when I push with the finger but pulling doesn't hurt a bit. It's a very light pain, but still notable. Pinky finger feels alright.

I thought I'd give it at least a weeks rest and then see what I'd do. I've been climbing every second day, so I thought there shouldn't be any possibility of over training due to rest days between (intensive) gym sessions. Does this seem to be a serious injury? If it does not seem to be healing would I be ok trying some light training using only index and middle finger on my right hand? Any advices?


johnwesely


Aug 30, 2010, 4:05 AM
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Re: [chriisu] Mild finger injury? [In reply to]
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chriisu wrote:
I thought I'd give it at least a weeks rest and then see what I'd do. I've been climbing every second day, so I thought there shouldn't be any possibility of over training due to rest days between (intensive) gym sessions. Does this seem to be a serious injury? If it does not seem to be healing would I be ok trying some light training using only index and middle finger on my right hand? Any advices?

Apparently, there was.


(This post was edited by johnwesely on Aug 30, 2010, 4:06 AM)


onceahardman


Aug 30, 2010, 3:13 PM
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Re: [chriisu] Mild finger injury? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
There was no clear swelling to be seen. I put some cold gel on it and went to bed. Now in the morning the pain feels quite the same. It hurts a bit when I push with the finger but pulling doesn't hurt a bit.

This sounds like a bit of mild (but acute) arthritis.

When you approximate the (presumably inflamed) joint surfaces with compression (axial loading), you get pain. When you distract the joint surfaces with a traction force, you have no pain, which tends to rule out passive restraints (ie ligaments) as the problem.

Go easy. Rest, AROM exercise only, ice is fine.


squierbypetzl
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Sep 8, 2010, 1:11 AM
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Re: [chriisu] Mild finger injury? [In reply to]
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There's really no way to tell what's wrong with your finger, see a physician if it still hurts or movement is impaired when you read this.


onceahardman


Sep 9, 2010, 8:01 AM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] Mild finger injury? [In reply to]
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squierbypetzl wrote:
There's really no way to tell what's wrong with your finger, see a physician if it still hurts or movement is impaired when you read this.

I suppose in general that is good advice. It's important to realize, though, that even seeing a doctor, especially a GP who doesn't get a lot of sports injuries, is no guarantee of accurate diagnosis.

Even MRI, as good as it is, has "false positive" rates over 30% in the lumbar spine, and incredibly, up to 5 out of 6 false positives for breast cancer in women (!):

http://www.innovations-report.com/...y/report-106167.html


jonesml5


Sep 17, 2010, 10:16 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] Mild finger injury? [In reply to]
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To add to onceahardman's point, I've seen three doctors for my very similar injury to my ring finger over the past year and a half. None have really understood the physical demands of climbing on the fingers or my injury.

If you are going to talk to a medical professional, you need someone with expertise in climbing, which can be pretty tough to find in most areas. Otherwise, you will be back to being stuck sorting through advice on boards like this and your own judgement in the end anyways.


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