|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2010, 3:21 PM
Post #1 of 17
(10324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
the less I ever want to climb here.
You might say that I am missing out, but I guess I have a certain tolerance for how many hoops I need to jump through to climb somewhere.
Since I can't lead 5.11 (yet), and I don't have the experience/inclination for big walls, I'm not really interested in Yosemite.
When I see guides for "top roping yosemite" and "bouldering in yosemite" I just chuckle, because I feel like if your not there for the best that location has to offer, then whats the point?
That is unless its in your backyard I guess.
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Aug 30, 2010, 3:29 PM
Post #2 of 17
(10315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
Might I recommend Squamish, BC? It's Yosemite sized with tons of variation and no crowds. Nice clean granite with single pitch, multi pitch and sport.
Since you're from the North East, you might understand me when I say it's like a Yosemite sized Acadia National Park. We are going every other year until we get sick of it. I can't get enough Squamish!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingaggie03
Aug 30, 2010, 3:43 PM
Post #3 of 17
(10303 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
|
I dunno, I don't climb 5.11 either and I love the valley, Royal arches 5.7 15 pitches is a blast, snake dike 5.7 8 pitches and ends on top of half dome is fun. There's tons of great routes at 5.8 and below, even more if you're up to 5.9 I've spent probably 3 or 4 months of time in the valley and I'm still itching to go back.
I have done a big wall and I'd like to do the nose, but there's way more there than just that, and the atmosphere and climbing community is unlike anywhere else I've ever been
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2010, 3:52 PM
Post #4 of 17
(10291 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
climbingaggie03 wrote: I dunno, I don't climb 5.11 either and I love the valley, Royal arches 5.7 15 pitches is a blast, snake dike 5.7 8 pitches and ends on top of half dome is fun. There's tons of great routes at 5.8 and below, even more if you're up to 5.9 I've spent probably 3 or 4 months of time in the valley and I'm still itching to go back. I have done a big wall and I'd like to do the nose, but there's way more there than just that, and the atmosphere and climbing community is unlike anywhere else I've ever been
I'm not saying there isn't alot of offer at the grades I'm comfortable at, I'm just saying I don't know if I'm willing to buy a plane ticket/rental car to wait in line for them.
I figure that choices open up more at the harder grades, kind of like the gunks.
dev
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Aug 30, 2010, 4:00 PM
Post #5 of 17
(10280 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Not sure what you can do abvout the hoops - assuming you are referring to the crowds and the opressive authoritative stance of the rangers - the spring and fall are slightly less crowded and climbing conditions are better anyway. But as a climber there really is no place better, Stick your nose out the door in the morning - tent flap, cabin or Awanhee penthouse - and you just have to marvel. There are tons of moderate routes of all lengths, I will admit the first trip I went there - 33 years ago - I had a one track mind - the Nose. A year later I still hadn't changed tracks and added the Salathe and the regular NW face. But since then I have done a lot of the moderates and they are wonderful. I am not that much of a boulderer but the Camp 4 circuit really should be experienced, Perfect boulders in a perfect forest (only other place I felt like that was in Font) with all the history and so on. Yup - if you are a climber you have to go.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Aug 30, 2010, 4:25 PM
Post #6 of 17
(10252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
i think that as a climber, one should definitely make a trip to Yosemite- the history and the overwhelming size and scope of the area is worth it alone- even if you cant climb much there. That said, if you can touch 5.9, you can have alot of fun, if you can climb 5.10 comfortably, there's no end to it.
All of that said, as a free climber, i've kind of done my time there and am not really interested in returning until the itch to do the Nose and Salathe finally gets bad enough that I cannot ignore it any longer. I personally prefer Squamish- while not nearly the size, the amount of climbing available to the everyman along with the ridiculous amount of daylight, well maintained trails, and lack of anything resembling the Yosemite rat race all makes it far more appealing than the valley.
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2010, 4:54 PM
Post #7 of 17
(10223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
vegastradguy wrote: i think that as a climber, one should definitely make a trip to Yosemite- the history and the overwhelming size and scope of the area is worth it alone- even if you cant climb much there. That said, if you can touch 5.9, you can have alot of fun, if you can climb 5.10 comfortably, there's no end to it. All of that said, as a free climber, i've kind of done my time there and am not really interested in returning until the itch to do the Nose and Salathe finally gets bad enough that I cannot ignore it any longer. I personally prefer Squamish- while not nearly the size, the amount of climbing available to the everyman along with the ridiculous amount of daylight, well maintained trails, and lack of anything resembling the Yosemite rat race all makes it far more appealing than the valley.
I understand the visit-as-pilgrimage trip. But in terms of the quality-climbing-experiences-for-where-I'm-at-now trip, I just don't think Yos is the best option.
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Aug 30, 2010, 5:15 PM
Post #8 of 17
(10200 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
In 40+ years of climbing I've only been to The Valley once. Stayed a month, had a good time, have never had even the slightest desire to go back.
But as a climber it is definitely worth one visit.
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Aug 30, 2010, 5:45 PM
Post #9 of 17
(10170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
devkrev wrote: vegastradguy wrote: i think that as a climber, one should definitely make a trip to Yosemite- the history and the overwhelming size and scope of the area is worth it alone- even if you cant climb much there. That said, if you can touch 5.9, you can have alot of fun, if you can climb 5.10 comfortably, there's no end to it. All of that said, as a free climber, i've kind of done my time there and am not really interested in returning until the itch to do the Nose and Salathe finally gets bad enough that I cannot ignore it any longer. I personally prefer Squamish- while not nearly the size, the amount of climbing available to the everyman along with the ridiculous amount of daylight, well maintained trails, and lack of anything resembling the Yosemite rat race all makes it far more appealing than the valley. I understand the visit-as-pilgrimage trip. But in terms of the quality-climbing-experiences-for-where-I'm-at-now trip, I just don't think Yos is the best option.
You list your occupation as a 'Slacker'
Now the pieces of the puzzle are coming together.
Not only are you gonna die.......
but you're freakin lazy too 
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Aug 30, 2010, 6:42 PM
Post #10 of 17
(10130 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
devkrev wrote: the less I ever want to climb here. You might say that I am missing out, but I guess I have a certain tolerance for how many hoops I need to jump through to climb somewhere. Since I can't lead 5.11 (yet), and I don't have the experience/inclination for big walls, I'm not really interested in Yosemite. When I see guides for "top roping yosemite" and "bouldering in yosemite" I just chuckle, because I feel like if your not there for the best that location has to offer, then whats the point? That is unless its in your backyard I guess.
Make sure you get around to posting your disinterest in all of the regional sites listed on rc.com that you have heard of and don't want to go to.
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2010, 7:14 PM
Post #11 of 17
(10115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
mojomonkey wrote: devkrev wrote: the less I ever want to climb here. You might say that I am missing out, but I guess I have a certain tolerance for how many hoops I need to jump through to climb somewhere. Since I can't lead 5.11 (yet), and I don't have the experience/inclination for big walls, I'm not really interested in Yosemite. When I see guides for "top roping yosemite" and "bouldering in yosemite" I just chuckle, because I feel like if your not there for the best that location has to offer, then whats the point? That is unless its in your backyard I guess. Make sure you get around to posting your disinterest in all of the regional sites listed on rc.com that you have heard of and don't want to go to.
That would take much too much time. And as the previous poster noted, I'm a slacker.
And thank you for adding meaningful input into this discussion 
|
|
|
|
|
dynosore
Aug 30, 2010, 8:36 PM
Post #12 of 17
(10078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768
|
The high country is most definitely worth climbing in, and you certainly don't need to lead 5.11 to get on some great climbs.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 30, 2010, 9:03 PM
Post #13 of 17
(10061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
I'm curious - what area (you haven't visited) do you reckon would be a better bang for your buck, at this stage of your career?
Cheers
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2010, 9:39 PM
Post #14 of 17
(10042 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
Cannon, NH.
Few bucks (for my location, its like 2 hours away), lotta bang (then again, that may be the cliffs falling down).
Poko-moonshine, Adirondacks.
These are all places I haven't been, that are a logistic walk in the park compared to Yos.
Lets say I had a month to do nothing but climb, I would probably head to the Red River Gorge.
dev
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 30, 2010, 9:46 PM
Post #15 of 17
(10037 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Right on, thanks. Yes given your location I wouldn't recommend a climbing vacation to be spent just in Yosemite Valley - but a couple of days in the Valley, a couple of days in the Meadows and a couple days of just being tourist I think could ring your bell.
I say - at some point in your career, if you get the chance, visit Yosemite to SEE Yosemite and if you can get some good climbing in as well, huge bonus.
Enjoy Pok O!
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 30, 2010, 10:10 PM
Post #16 of 17
(10015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
you've got some fair points. I don't hit the valley much because of 1)crowds and 2) too much work to camp.
That said, I do try to hit it off season. It is way mellow off season, although that does limit your route choices.
The thing about yosemite, is it has the long routes. If you want to do long routes, it is the place. Generally approaches are pretty mellow.
The Red is rad, one of the greatest climbing areas I've ever seen. It's apples and oranges to Yosemite though. Same for Indian Creek. Beautiful areas with unique climbing styles that are hard to compare. Sure, you can have a preference for one style over the other, but I don't think you can honestly go to any of those areas and say they suck if you are any kind of a climber.
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Aug 30, 2010, 10:14 PM
Post #17 of 17
(10011 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
I'm compiling a list.
-3rd pillar of Dana
-regular route on Fairview
-Astroman
-something on Middle Cathedral
enticing at all?
|
|
|
|
|
|
