|
DangerGir1
Jul 29, 2010, 2:21 AM
Post #1 of 24
(8212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
I am taking a road trip from Lansing to Devils tower the first week in September. I lead at about a 5.8 and will be doing easy sport and trad.
|
|
|
|
|
gillesalex
Aug 26, 2010, 3:46 PM
Post #2 of 24
(8111 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2010
Posts: 4
|
Hi ! I'll be in Chicago on September 3-5. Psyched to go trad climbing to Devil's Lake again. You won't find any sport climbing there though. Feel free to contact me at : gilles.alex@gmail.com. Alex
|
|
|
|
|
yves
Aug 26, 2010, 5:57 PM
Post #3 of 24
(8100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
|
Hi Have also been looking to climb a route or two on Devil Tower. Not available before the 10-11 WE but could take one or two days off, if this would coincide with your trip. I have a good climbing experience including in Trad (see my profile).
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Aug 29, 2010, 4:22 PM
Post #4 of 24
(8068 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
I am still looking for a partner for the 5th to the 10th. I am not limited to Devils tower, so if your in need of a partner for any on the surrounding area climbs let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
yves
Aug 30, 2010, 12:12 PM
Post #5 of 24
(8048 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
|
Am sending you a pm.
|
|
|
|
|
cornstateclimber
Sep 1, 2010, 2:03 AM
Post #6 of 24
(8022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
|
lots of great climbing in the whole black hills area. cathedral spires brings a great time, many summits on granite spires, multi pitch. spearfish canyon, rushmore area, devils tower one could spend a long time there. durrance route a must tho. wish i could go with!
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 1, 2010, 2:37 PM
Post #7 of 24
(8012 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
hey DG, Im arriving on saturday 4th sept. Staying at the Devils Tower Lodge- to save $$$ I'm camping out. Are you being guided up? Rich 337-353-5057
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 1, 2010, 2:39 PM
Post #8 of 24
(8011 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
what type of gear are you coming with? Rope? cams? Nuts? Rich
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Sep 1, 2010, 9:34 PM
Post #9 of 24
(7993 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
I will be bringing 2 ropes 6 or so cams 1 set of nuts 2 sets plus of hexs me one dirt bike 2 helmets and lots of other stuff! Are you thinking about climbing with me? I still need a partner for earlier in the week, and I am open to climbing in other areas.
|
|
|
|
|
cornstateclimber
Sep 2, 2010, 4:12 AM
Post #10 of 24
(7988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
|
durrance route is easiest and well trafficked route up the tower. goes at 5.7 i believe. it was a fun multi-pitch climb, 6 or so pitches. kind of a must do for devils tower moderates!
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 2, 2010, 2:12 PM
Post #11 of 24
(7978 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
Hell yea! Have you read the guide book? Mostly trad- I guess there is some sport routes as well. Thats why Im hiring a guide for a few days. When are you arriving Devils tower lodge? Arrivial- 4th thru 11th sept my rack- double set of BD cams Hex's, nuts, slings, jumars ect ect ect
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 2, 2010, 3:17 PM
Post #12 of 24
(7974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
They bumped it to 5.8 because of how smooth it's gotten over the years
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 2, 2010, 3:19 PM
Post #13 of 24
(7973 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
I didn't think there was a sporty route on it.
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 2, 2010, 3:37 PM
Post #14 of 24
(7970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
There are belay stations at some of the routes- either hanging or on a ledge- a double or triple rack is necessary on the the harder climbs, per what Ive read in Devils tower Guide book.
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 2, 2010, 3:40 PM
Post #15 of 24
(7968 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
Right... but you said RMC wrote: Mostly trad- I guess there is some sport routes as well.
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 2, 2010, 3:46 PM
Post #16 of 24
(7965 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
hahah should have used a question mark to read "mostly TRAD? :) Rich
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 2, 2010, 3:50 PM
Post #17 of 24
(7963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
have fun, if you do Durance, try the Direct variation of it.
|
|
|
|
|
RMC
Sep 2, 2010, 4:03 PM
Post #18 of 24
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 56
|
looked at that for a warm up piece- El Matador/El Cracko Diablo routes look rad. Rich
|
|
|
|
|
cornstateclimber
Sep 2, 2010, 5:43 PM
Post #19 of 24
(7942 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
|
when i was there i stayed only long enough for the durrance, but really wish i would of tried some of the other routes. some of those grooves were just incredible looking, and went on forever. well have a good time, im hoping to make it in oct, if all goes well
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 2, 2010, 6:16 PM
Post #20 of 24
(7939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
Agreed, El Cracko looked fun.
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Sep 2, 2010, 9:30 PM
Post #21 of 24
(7924 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
I can't wait to climb. I should get there later on the 5th and will be staying till the 11th.
|
|
|
|
|
jackflash
Sep 3, 2010, 3:48 PM
Post #22 of 24
(7907 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 5, 2002
Posts: 483
|
shrug7 wrote: I didn't think there was a sporty route on it. While traditional routes dominate the Tower, there are a number of sport routes as well. Everlasting, Fritz's Fantasy, and Buckspeck are a few of the very good bolted lines. Most of these follow aretes, are less than vertical, and rely heavily on footwork. There is one 5.9 sport route. Most are in the 5.10-5.11 range The Tower is awesome, but anyone climbing it for the first time should be aware that pitches are long, typically 150 ft, and sustained. Moderate cracks tend to be hand size and up, while harder routes are thin hands down to seams so tight that only pure stemming will get you through. Two ropes and double sizes in nuts and cams are a good idea. Have fun! Sean
|
|
|
|
|
shrug7
Sep 3, 2010, 4:16 PM
Post #23 of 24
(7905 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866
|
huh. Well I learned something today.
|
|
|
|
|
|