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dagibbs
Sep 12, 2010, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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Interesting conclusion -- the Munter hitch as the best belay "device" choice out there. (And, it's primary weakness being the handling of double ropes, so leaving it even clearer as the best choice for single rope situations.)
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bearbreeder
Sep 14, 2010, 8:38 PM
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more interesting is the testing on bolts and pitons IMO
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dagibbs
Sep 15, 2010, 4:16 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: more interesting is the testing on bolts and pitons IMO Yes, that stuff is definitely interesting -- but it isn't new. The belay device testing stuff is new.
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surfer9joe
Sep 15, 2010, 9:08 PM
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cool articles, definetly! Poor guy must have been teased a lot when he was a kid with a last name like "Titt"
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brokesomeribs
Sep 17, 2010, 6:30 AM
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Interesting data, thanks for posting. Jim, if you ever see this thread, I'm curious about a couple different things: 1 - You mention the Grigri and the Cinch, then go on to mention that the Grigri is the only device capable of handling FF2 falls but offer no further info on the Cinch. Can you elaborate? What happens to the Cinch in a very high FF scenario? 2 - The overwhelming majority of multipitch climbers belay with tube-style devices, myself included. What can be done to increase our safety margins in high FF scenarios? Obviously wearing gloves, for one thing. Assuming a right handed belayer, what about taking the brake strand of the rope and wrapping it around under your butt and then holding it with your left hand? If I'm belaying a leader hang-dogging on a route and taking repeated rests, I'll hold the rope like this to add friction while the climber hangs. Would this method (tube style ATC plus a pseudo hip belay) be something to consider when belaying a climber 50 ft run out above his last piece of pro?
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