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Belay Device theory from Jim Titt
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CamCactus


Sep 11, 2010, 5:23 AM
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Belay Device theory from Jim Titt
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Just shearing if anyone missed it.
Good stuff about belay devices from Jim Titt. His website contains a lot but he recently added his findings on braking mechanisms. Part 7.http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

He was involved in developing the DMM Chicane. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2910


dagibbs


Sep 12, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Re: [CamCactus] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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Interesting conclusion -- the Munter hitch as the best belay "device" choice out there. (And, it's primary weakness being the handling of double ropes, so leaving it even clearer as the best choice for single rope situations.)


bearbreeder


Sep 14, 2010, 1:38 PM
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Re: [CamCactus] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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more interesting is the testing on bolts and pitons IMO


dagibbs


Sep 15, 2010, 9:16 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
more interesting is the testing on bolts and pitons IMO

Yes, that stuff is definitely interesting -- but it isn't new. The belay device testing stuff is new.


surfer9joe


Sep 15, 2010, 2:08 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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cool articles, definetly! Poor guy must have been teased a lot when he was a kid with a last name like "Titt"


brokesomeribs


Sep 16, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Re: [CamCactus] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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Interesting data, thanks for posting.

Jim, if you ever see this thread, I'm curious about a couple different things:

1 - You mention the Grigri and the Cinch, then go on to mention that the Grigri is the only device capable of handling FF2 falls but offer no further info on the Cinch. Can you elaborate? What happens to the Cinch in a very high FF scenario?

2 - The overwhelming majority of multipitch climbers belay with tube-style devices, myself included. What can be done to increase our safety margins in high FF scenarios? Obviously wearing gloves, for one thing. Assuming a right handed belayer, what about taking the brake strand of the rope and wrapping it around under your butt and then holding it with your left hand?

If I'm belaying a leader hang-dogging on a route and taking repeated rests, I'll hold the rope like this to add friction while the climber hangs. Would this method (tube style ATC plus a pseudo hip belay) be something to consider when belaying a climber 50 ft run out above his last piece of pro?


theguy


Sep 17, 2010, 12:41 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
The belay device testing stuff is new.

Notapplicable's re-post of this (and much else) a month ago doesn't make it new.

This article was referenced right here on rc.com at least three months ago, and the Munter hitch result goes back to the DAV paper of 2002 which Jim references.

While we're turning the lab into the beginner's forum, can someone tell me what kind of shoes I should get? Pirate


CamCactus


Sep 19, 2010, 2:35 PM
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Re: [theguy] Belay Device theory from Jim Titt [In reply to]
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theguy wrote:
Notapplicable's re-post of this (and much else) a month ago doesn't make it new.

Bloody Hell. Missed that. Sorry, my badUnsure


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