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gblauer
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Sep 12, 2010, 10:28 PM
Post #2 of 11
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Buy the Self Coached Climber and read it. Find a training partner and set up a training schedule. Do all of the drills. Refrain from "projecting" until you really understand climbing movement.
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MS1
Sep 12, 2010, 11:19 PM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: Feb 24, 2009
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narcolepticpug wrote: So im getting back into climbing after like a ten year layoff. when i was younger (about 14) i was doing 5.9 - 5.10-s. i started climbing again at a indoor gym by my house, and have gone about 5 times in the last 2.5 weeks. i can do a few 5.9s a few 5.8s and most 5.7s. I can do just about any climb up to 5.9 that is very reachy or takes alot of strength. but the problem im having is with any climb that starts to get technical. even a 5.7 kicks my butt. What Can I Do To Get Better A The Technical Climbs??? its so frustrating. i can visualize the climb. i know i have the power and strength. but i find myself not finding the footholds or having my hands on the wrong holds, and before i know it, im exhausted and fall. 
Here's an idea: Try searching the forums before you post a repetitive question. You think you are the first person who came here trying to learn better climbing technique?
Beyond that, I'd suggest that if your problem is as you have described (you grab the wrong holds and miss footholds), the solution follows obviously from the problem: Use your eyes more. Study a sequence from below before you start into it to figure out what you need to grab, and then execute it. Regularly shift your gaze to your feet so that you don't miss the best footholds.
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gunkiemike
Sep 13, 2010, 8:49 PM
Post #4 of 11
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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It's amazing what some 14 year olds can pull their way up without a shred of footwork. That power-to-weight thing...
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dagibbs
Sep 15, 2010, 3:45 PM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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Watch somebody else, somebody better, climb the climb. If you can find someone who is about your height/reach, technically better, but not as strong, they're probably the best person to watch. (In my experience, older climbers and female climbers tend to have better technique.)
So... watch, then try to do the same moves, find the same body positions.
Or, even, ask someone else how they make the moves -- most climbers are willing to make a suggestion or two if asked nicely.
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csproul
Sep 15, 2010, 5:56 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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dagibbs wrote: Watch somebody else, somebody better, climb the climb. If you can find someone who is about your height/reach, technically better, but not as strong, they're probably the best person to watch. (In my experience, older climbers and female climbers tend to have better technique.) So... watch, then try to do the same moves, find the same body positions. Or, even, ask someone else how they make the moves -- most climbers are willing to make a suggestion or two if asked nicely.
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dagibbs
Sep 15, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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csproul wrote: dagibbs wrote: Or, even, ask someone else how they make the moves -- most climbers are willing to make a suggestion or two if asked nicely.Often times when you didn't ask at all!
Yeah, that too. But, when you don't want it -- that's a different issue.
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narcolepticpug
Sep 16, 2010, 3:22 AM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Dec 18, 2007
Posts: 27
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yea, thats very true. i didnt think about that. thank you very much
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Alpine07
Sep 16, 2010, 4:20 AM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Mar 1, 2007
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I'd hardly expect you to be climbing at the level you had been after only 2.5 weeks. Give yourself a bit of time to get back into things. Don't worry about it too much at this point, just get out and practice, it'll come.
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skyfurr
Sep 16, 2010, 6:29 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Jul 21, 2010
Posts: 28
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Like you I got back into climbing recently and was a little uncertain about how to approach it to start pushing grades again asap.
What I've learnt the past few months so far...
PATIENCE!
Seriously, especially regarding strength. When I was younger I weighed a lot less too, gawd do you notice that now:P And obviously the tendons as opposed to muscles are going to take a while to strengthen again.
I'm not even that heavy now, but like gunkiemike mentioned above, that whole power to weight thing when you're younger.
Lack of patience increased my incident of injury too.
Learnt that the hard way, but better for it I guess:-|
Once I started slowing down a bit and approaching workouts (indoor gym) with some routine and focus on not overdoing it, I really noticed a more aligned improvement of technique with strength capabilities.
A little while ago I had a major breakthrough after taking a week off (due to majorly over-climbing a few days in a row) and came back and pulled moves I'd found impossible the week before. I have a feeling muscle recovery was a big factor with that one, which I hadn't been paying too much attention to.
With technique, while I agree that learning from other climbers can be and is important for further development, I'm actually enjoying the process (though slow) of developing it along my own personal journey of discovery.
Adds to the experience of exploration for me, which is what I always loved most about climbing anyway when I was younger... in fact after a few minor speed bumps so far, I'm learning to savor this stage of re-insertion to the vertical domain for what it is:)
Might the consideration for 'rest-spots' on a climb be somewhat neglected by you?
Hmmm, though if you feel really lost with technique, then bouldering at a gym with friends might be a good idea? Something like 'add-ons' - a bouldering game - can be great to learn the importance and execution of good technique in a fun and practical way. Link to it's description...
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/climbing_games.html
-I don't recommend many of the other ones listed there though, apart from for a good laugh:]
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narcolepticpug
Sep 18, 2010, 1:44 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Dec 18, 2007
Posts: 27
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... i remember add ons. i used to play that one with my brother all the time.... thank you all for the advice
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