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ryanc490
Sep 24, 2010, 3:26 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2009
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Just curious, about to embark on my first trip to Camden, any advice? How's the rock quality??
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epoch
Moderator
Sep 24, 2010, 4:41 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2005
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The quality varies from place to place. The rock is mostly Gneiss, and is really textured. Depending on what area you go to and what route you get on YMMV.
Overall, it's an enjoyable place that is off the beaten path with some quality climbs dispersed amongst the various cliffs. Depending on what your goals are would depend on what you would want to do.
For low-angled face/slab head to Barrets Cove, though be solid at the grade before attempting a climb. Some of them have some gnarly runouts or somewhat bad falls. The Verticals is the best for toproping and is the most vertical cliff around. For 5.10 and higher sport check out the Ramparts and The Outback. And last but not least, Ocean Lookout is full of adventurous climbs on good rock.
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ccasey
Sep 24, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2012
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Just did a couple climbs at the Verticals yesterday. I'm a newbie but had a great time on these 5.7-5.12 climbs, top-roped. Firm rock, good flakes, no dirt or rot, some bolted routes.
We were going to do Charlotte's Crack on the nearby Barret Cove cliff, but only had one rope, and it's a tall one.
Get a copy of the Camden rock/ice climbing guide at Maine Outfitters, Rockport, $7.50, and it will open up this area for you. Last time at Verticals, we met a guy and gal from Vermont who worked at Gear-X.com., but yesterday we had it to ourselves.
Hope to see you out there some day. I plan to do some ice there, and later at Katahdin.
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