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training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences?
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olive


Sep 27, 2010, 7:23 PM
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training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences?
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Hi all,
Unfortunately nowadays I only have access to a bouldering gym. My main climbing outside however is sport and trad climbing on single pitch routes, getting in multipitch when I can. I am fairly bummed about the fact that I dont have access to a climbing gym. I am not really a boulderer and I am wondering how I can make this work. I know bouldering is fun and can make you strong etc. etc., but I am particularly worried about: 1) Injuring myself (it has been my experience and the people around me that one tends to injure oneself more quickly in a gym, and specifically in a bouldering gym. I am also 34, not one of those mutant teenagers who never get injured. I also have a bad ankle with a history of sprains). 2) Losing all my endurance and lead head. 3) Getting bored if I try to train (I tend to get more motivated about working long routes).

Any suggestions? Any you who have been in a similar situation? How did it work for you?


rhythm164


Sep 27, 2010, 7:34 PM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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4x4's


olive


Sep 27, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Re: [rhythm164] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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Do you do them once a week or more?

My problem with them has been this: ideally they are good but when I try to do them in the gym there are mostly people who are getting in the way - it is hard to execute them perfectly. Ie. I will be resting between the first set and second and someone would jump on one of the routes that I am using etc. etc.

I guess I should try to schedule them for when the gym is emptier - which might be hard.


jt512


Sep 27, 2010, 11:58 PM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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olive wrote:
Do you do them once a week or more?

You're in your 30s, so I'd say that doing 4x4s twice a week would be optimal.

In reply to:
My problem with them has been this: ideally they are good but when I try to do them in the gym there are mostly people who are getting in the way - it is hard to execute them perfectly. Ie. I will be resting between the first set and second and someone would jump on one of the routes that I am using etc. etc.

I guess I should try to schedule them for when the gym is emptier - which might be hard.

It's best to get to the gym during non-peak hours, but if you can't, let the other climbers know that you're trying to do 4x4s. In my experience, many boulderers will get out of your way.

Jay


mr.tastycakes


Sep 28, 2010, 11:35 AM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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To avoid injury pay close attention to the volume and intensity of climbing you're doing day to day and week to week. Don't drastically increase intensity or volume in a short period of time. Take plenty of rest between climbing days (at least a day, maybe two, after a hard session - i.e. 4x4's); take a full week off every couple months. Avoid endlessly flailing on the same hard moves. Climb more problems within your limits instead of threshold bouldering.

+ 1 on doing 4x4's for endurance. Your lead head, however, is screwed.Unimpressed I think a bouldering wall is actually better for movement drills than a roped climbing wall...no tying in and untying required (saves time), you don't need a partner and you don't need to belay said partner (convenience/saves time), and it's easier to share beta and work a sequence at ground level.

After climbing some great routes outside, yeah, the gym just kinda sucks. A good partner helps alleviate the boredom/lameness. Also, think of all the great routes on your ticklist for motivation. Try to ignore the gaggle of shirtless douchebags campusing the juggy V2. Good luck.


shimanilami


Sep 28, 2010, 11:51 AM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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You can throw in 6x8's as well.


olive


Sep 28, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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So do you guys do the 4X4s after a regular session??
Do 6X8s just work like 4X4s? That might be too much for me :));


jt512


Sep 28, 2010, 3:56 PM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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olive wrote:
So do you guys do the 4X4s after a regular session??

Hell, no. At least I don't. You want to do these when fresh. Otherwise, you either won't be able to perform them at optimal intensity, or you'll end up getting hurt.

In reply to:
Do 6X8s just work like 4X4s? That might be too much for me :));

No. You have to perform 6x8s at a lower intensity. 4x4s work high-end anaerobic endurance. 6x8s work high-end aerobic to low-end anaerobic endurance.

Jay


technogeekery


Sep 29, 2010, 9:21 PM
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Re: [olive] training in a bouldering gym for sport-climbing. Suggestions? experiences? [In reply to]
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I'm a little older than you, also only have access to gym twice a week during peak hours, and one of those days don't have a partner so am restricted to bouldering. I found it very hard in the beginning, the high intensity hurts, my knuckles and elbows both started tweaking, and it was boring.

I've stuck with it, reduced intensity for a couple of months, and now find that I can do proper workouts for a reasonable time without hurting joints. It is still pretty boring compared to leading routes, but it is making me stronger and helping with technique.And it is getting to be a bit more fun now that I can do more interesting problems. A good/fun partner would make all the difference - so I'm recruiting :-)

So from personal experience rather than any expertise, I'd say take it easy for a while, don't try anything too hard when you are tired, and see if you can find someone to boulder with to keep it fun.

Oh, and on the 4x4s - same problem, gyms are very crowded in Tokyo, so 4x4s are tricky. For the 4 reps I'll do two problems consecutively, downclimbing both, without a break, then move to another panel for the next set - often have to wait longer between sets than optimal, but c'est la vie.


(This post was edited by technogeekery on Sep 29, 2010, 9:24 PM)


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