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Partner devkrev


Oct 1, 2010, 4:28 PM
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Most Worthless Piece of Gear
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Hey,

There are numerous threads for the "must-have" specialized gear for a given crag, but for fun/discussion: What is the most WORTHLESS piece of gear that you have found to be the case at a crag?

I'll start with a few off the top of my head:

Rumney: Cordelette
Gunks: DMM aluminium offset nuts, hexes

I found myself finding very few nut placements on Chapel Pond Slab in the Dacks. I remember being happy that my fiancee decided to bring extra small cams. I would be tempted to not bring nuts at all, but that would make for some expensive bailing if need be.


roninthorne


Oct 1, 2010, 4:43 PM
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a gym climbing instructor


full1346


Oct 1, 2010, 5:24 PM
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a mammut chalk container


Partner camhead


Oct 1, 2010, 5:25 PM
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Hexes. ATCs. Cordalettes. PAS's.


Rudmin


Oct 1, 2010, 5:27 PM
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search function?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;


gblauer
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Oct 1, 2010, 5:28 PM
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metollius rope hook


Partner devkrev


Oct 1, 2010, 5:32 PM
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No, I definitely find the search function useful at the cragsTongue

I guess I was looking at specifically, pieces of protection, thats kinda why I put this in the trad forum, I guess I didn't explain myself enough/derailed it from the get go with my Rumney cordelette listing.

I didn't mean all around worthless junk, I guess I meant protection that is useless in some crags, that could really be useful elsewhere.

dev


bill413


Oct 1, 2010, 5:36 PM
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Big Bro - totally glad I borrowed it on a route on Chapel Pond slabs; Otherwise, not so useful where I climb.


swoopee


Oct 1, 2010, 5:49 PM
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SMC Camlocks. Frown


spikeddem


Oct 1, 2010, 6:14 PM
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gold camalots


bill413


Oct 1, 2010, 6:30 PM
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swoopee wrote:
SMC Camlocks. Frown

Oh, yeah.


potreroed


Oct 1, 2010, 6:49 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Most Worthless Piece of Gear [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
metollius rope hook

Really?? As a Potrero Chico enthusiast I would think you'd appreciate them. You're not one of those who drape the rope over your foot when belaying on multi-pitch, are you?


Gmburns2000


Oct 1, 2010, 7:28 PM
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devkrev wrote:
Hey,

There are numerous threads for the "must-have" specialized gear for a given crag, but for fun/discussion: What is the most WORTHLESS piece of gear that you have found to be the case at a crag?

I'll start with a few off the top of my head:

Rumney: Cordelette
Gunks: DMM aluminium offset nuts, hexes

I found myself finding very few nut placements on Chapel Pond Slab in the Dacks. I remember being happy that my fiancee decided to bring extra small cams. I would be tempted to not bring nuts at all, but that would make for some expensive bailing if need be.

I actually have a couple of DMM offset nuts and I find really good placements for them at the 'Gunks fairly often.

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?)


moose_droppings


Oct 1, 2010, 7:35 PM
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devkrev wrote:
I didn't mean all around worthless junk, I guess I meant protection that is useless in some crags, that could really be useful elsewhere.

dev

By that criteria, tricams.


ClimbSoHigh


Oct 1, 2010, 7:49 PM
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Anything metal, true heros jam knots in cracks.

But in reality, as far as pro goes, I would say most worthless is the valley giant, get with the big bros.




malcolm777b


Oct 1, 2010, 7:57 PM
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ClimbSoHigh wrote:
Anything metal, true heros jam knots in cracks.

But in reality, as far as pro goes, I would say most worthless is the valley giant, get with the big bros.

[image]http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/VGhistory.html[/image]

Are you serious??? VGs are AWESOME for the wide. You can't walk a Big Bro....Big bros are for when you want to leave a piece, but you want to keep walking that valley giant up with you.


bearbreeder


Oct 1, 2010, 8:05 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Most Worthless Piece of Gear [In reply to]
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tricams r awwwsum ... i place them on every moderate climb in squamish/rockies ...

they work great as a second set of nuts/cams and r much lighter to boot

for alpine you can just bring em instead of cams since they also work in lightly iced cracks

useless??? ... everything is useless till nothing else will fit ... lol


marc801


Oct 1, 2010, 8:19 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.
Except for where it's critical on routes at Smith, Skaha, NRG, American Fork, Owens River Gorge, and numerous other places where the first bolt on many routes is intentionally placed high to keep you from decking before bolt #2.

You need to travel a bit more before making these sweeping generalizations.


shoo


Oct 1, 2010, 8:35 PM
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Before his devolves into another "I love/hate tricame" thread, let me get it over with and say shut up, you're wrong.


marc801


Oct 1, 2010, 8:39 PM
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shoo wrote:
Before his devolves into another "I love/hate tricame" thread, let me get it over with and say shut up, you're wrong.
But I didn't say anything about tricams.


moose_droppings


Oct 1, 2010, 8:47 PM
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I agree and use them all the time.
You wait though, just as in many other threads, a lot of people from different areas will say that they're useless.

So they fit his criteria of
devkrev wrote:
I didn't mean all around worthless junk, I guess I meant protection that is useless in some crags, that could really be useful elsewhere.


Partner camhead


Oct 1, 2010, 9:10 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.


hafilax


Oct 1, 2010, 9:15 PM
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Re: [camhead] Most Worthless Piece of Gear [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.
This is in the trad climbing forum.


Gmburns2000


Oct 1, 2010, 11:07 PM
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camhead wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.

then why use it?


hafilax


Oct 1, 2010, 11:11 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
camhead wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:

Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.

Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there.

then why use it?
Why place gear?

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