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boymeetsrock


Sep 15, 2010, 7:14 AM
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Todd, good times indeed. Enjoyed sharing a rope with you. I have not seen the thread you mentioned so I will do a search.


"Our 0.4 Cam or Bill's Good Karma"
Last year I headed out to the Gunks one weekend. On my rack was a very new .4 BD cam. Some good climbing through the day led my partner and I to finish on Limelight. I led off, and early in the climb I tried to place that fine and shiny piece of aluminum. Alas, it was too small. I placed the cam on the ledge at my waste and opted for the .5 can instead. With solid gear I climbed off.

The climb finished, we returned to the base re-racked and got ready to head for home. ...but where was that little .4 cam.?. We looked all over but we couldn't find it.

Later that day, Bill and his partner started up Arrow. Low and behold, there on a ledge not too far off the ground was a shiny new .4 cam. What luck! Booty, and it's new!! Bill must have thought his angels were shining on him.



So I lost my cam. I figured I owed it to the booty gods. Heck, I've picked up my fair share. You win some you loose some, right? Besides, I hung on the crux of Limelight. Perhaps instead of killing a puppy, god just took my cam.

Then, a few days later while roaming around here on RC, I noticed someone had posted asking if anyone had found their #1 pink tri-cam... Really? I chuckled to myself. Asking for an $8 piece back? But, that made me think. If this guy is going to ask for a tri-cam back... Aw shit, nothing ventured nothing gained. So, I posted and asked if anyone had found my cam.

I didn't even know where I had lost the thing, mind you. I said in my post that it may have been in the thin slabs area, as I though I had lost it there in the leaves. I couldn't imagine that not only had I left it sitting right out in the open on a ledge, but that my partner would have climbed right by it also...

A couple days later Bill became my hero. Even a bit of a Santa. He posted that he had my cam (How did he know it was mine? It wasn't even near where I had said.) He mailed it back to me at his expense saying that I should owe him a beer.

Well, shit. I couldn't have been happier! When the cam arrived in Nov, I hung it on our Christmas tree. A Christmas present indeed!



I still owe Bill a beer. Formally at least. Hell I owe him a whole case! You should here him tell the story of the one that got away too. '...I once caught a cam that was THIS big...' Wink At least he got to use it this past weekend.


Thanks Bill !!!


c4c


Sep 15, 2010, 7:34 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread

I love stories with a happy ending. I am missing a cam as well and don't know where I lost it. Ironic but guess which size.


boymeetsrock


Sep 15, 2010, 8:03 AM
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Thanks for the link. My search did not find that thread.


Sorry to hear about YOUR .4 cam. Just re-racked all my gear when I got home from the weekend. Nothing extra was found... Sorry. Ironic indeed though. Check Bill's rack. He has a light hand for those cams. Tongue


c4c


Sep 15, 2010, 1:16 PM
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It was missing before this past weekend. I think I lost it out at Crane mt.


Gmburns2000


Sep 17, 2010, 8:25 AM
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was good to meet you wyeth. had a good day there. I really liked the Lake George area. It is close to a lot of excellent climbing. Great to see you again, too, Bill. Will see you again in the 'Gunks maybe over the 25th.

Just got back from 12 straight days of climbing. Am tired, but oddly now feel as if I could keep going. I may go to the gym tonight just to say I did one more day than Jeremiah, who is at a family function in Minnesota. Sucks to be him if I go. Hehe.

TR will take a bit to write up. Still got lots of reciepts to sort through and pics to figure out. Nearly lost all the notes thanks to a very sudden and intense hail storm that left Jeremiah at the top of P2 of Drunkards and me at the top of P1. He put me on belay a half second before all hell broke loose. My notes were nearly trashed, and I am 99% positive that I lost my second f*(^*(^^!%@^cking phone in two weeks due to water (MadMadMad) in that storm. But that's just a teaser...more to come later...


Gmburns2000


Sep 17, 2010, 8:29 AM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Todd, good times indeed. Enjoyed sharing a rope with you. I have not seen the thread you mentioned so I will do a search.


"Our 0.4 Cam or Bill's Good Karma"
Last year I headed out to the Gunks one weekend. On my rack was a very new .4 BD cam. Some good climbing through the day led my partner and I to finish on Limelight. I led off, and early in the climb I tried to place that fine and shiny piece of aluminum. Alas, it was too small. I placed the cam on the ledge at my waste and opted for the .5 can instead. With solid gear I climbed off.

The climb finished, we returned to the base re-racked and got ready to head for home. ...but where was that little .4 cam.?. We looked all over but we couldn't find it.

Later that day, Bill and his partner started up Arrow. Low and behold, there on a ledge not too far off the ground was a shiny new .4 cam. What luck! Booty, and it's new!! Bill must have thought his angels were shining on him.



So I lost my cam. I figured I owed it to the booty gods. Heck, I've picked up my fair share. You win some you loose some, right? Besides, I hung on the crux of Limelight. Perhaps instead of killing a puppy, god just took my cam.

Then, a few days later while roaming around here on RC, I noticed someone had posted asking if anyone had found their #1 pink tri-cam... Really? I chuckled to myself. Asking for an $8 piece back? But, that made me think. If this guy is going to ask for a tri-cam back... Aw shit, nothing ventured nothing gained. So, I posted and asked if anyone had found my cam.

I didn't even know where I had lost the thing, mind you. I said in my post that it may have been in the thin slabs area, as I though I had lost it there in the leaves. I couldn't imagine that not only had I left it sitting right out in the open on a ledge, but that my partner would have climbed right by it also...

A couple days later Bill became my hero. Even a bit of a Santa. He posted that he had my cam (How did he know it was mine? It wasn't even near where I had said.) He mailed it back to me at his expense saying that I should owe him a beer.

Well, shit. I couldn't have been happier! When the cam arrived in Nov, I hung it on our Christmas tree. A Christmas present indeed!



I still owe Bill a beer. Formally at least. Hell I owe him a whole case! You should here him tell the story of the one that got away too. '...I once caught a cam that was THIS big...' Wink At least he got to use it this past weekend.


Thanks Bill !!!

not the first time that's happened with Bill. He bootied a biner and several months later a friend saw it on his rack and said, "hey, that's mine!"

turns out that friend forgot he had used it to bail on a route that Bill apparently was the next person on it.


boymeetsrock


Sep 17, 2010, 8:47 AM
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Greg,

Was great to meet you and Jeremiah also. Always fun to put faces to names. I'm definitely hoping to make it up to the Gunks, probably on the 26th, if I can make it.

Looking forward to the TR. Interested to hear how yours and Jeremiah's interests balanced out at the Gunks.

Sorry to hear about the (second) phone ! DOH!


boymeetsrock


Sep 21, 2010, 10:59 AM
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I took my dad for his second rock climb ever this weekend. He is 69. Turns 70 next month.

Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge:


TR to follow.


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Sep 21, 2010, 11:00 AM)
Attachments: Dad on Whitehorse2.jpg (98.1 KB)


Gmburns2000


Sep 27, 2010, 9:44 AM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
I took my dad for his second rock climb ever this weekend. He is 69. Turns 70 next month.

Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge:


TR to follow.

nice route all around. interested to see how it went.

I was in the 'Gunks with Kurt, Rachel, Jen, and Jeff. Was an OK weekend climbing and a good one with friends.

Sat was hot, so we stayed in the Nears where there was more shade down below. Kurt led Disneyland for the first time to start us off, then we went to do Fat Stick. It was my first time on that route and I struggled a bit once in the notch, but that was because I couldn't see the BOMBER left foot on the left side of the wall. Once I saw that I was able to reach the hold that pulled me up. Then went and did Farewell to Arms for the first time, too. That's a nice route, with two curious cruxes. The first is definitely more mental than the second, even if the gear on the second crux made me kind of willy in the knees for a few seconds.

Went to the Rock and Snow 40th anniversary party at the Visitor's Center Sat night. Food was good. met and chatted with Julia, a friend from NYC, for a few minutes before bailing. I'm not much of a social networker, so that scene was kind of awkward for me. I felt better when the others came from the Brauhaus to pick me up. Hoping to climb with Julia in a couple of weeks when I get back down there.

Sun was kind of a bust for me, but not for Rachel. I really wanted to get on Modern Times, but we had to warm up first and Kurt and Rachel had plans, too. Rachel isn't much of a trad leader, so when she said she wanted to plug gear Kurt and I were all for it. We went to Middle Earth where she'd get the chance to lead the 5.2 P2, but unfortunately not only was there a freaking conga line heading up it but there was a conga line on every easy route around it except for Absurdland, which, to my dismay, turned out to be our warmup. I was really hoping to get on someone easier than that, and it proved to be too much too soon for me. The crux on Absurdland starts about 15 feet up and lasts for another 20 feet or so, so I was kind of pumped when I finally got off that. I hadn't been on it either, so I didn't know what to expect. One hang due to early-morning pump. I'll get it clean next time.

Middle Earth was then open, and Kurt and Rachel led all the pitches since I'd already done it. Both did a great job, particularly Rachel who was nervous as hell just before getting on and happy as a clam in mud when we finally got to the top. She expressed an interest in doing more trad leading, so I really think that was a win for her. I've been pushing her to try more trad, and she's been warming up to it. I'm stoked that she's interested in doing more. I hope she takes her shots and gets more comfortable with it as she's a pretty good climber.

Kurt wanted me to take him up CCK, but by the time we got down from the new conga line that was now forming below us on Middle Earth, it was late in the day. They have to work still (silly people, don't they realize work is for chumps?), so we bailed on the day with plans to do CCK and MT in a couple of weeks when we return.


gblauer
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Sep 27, 2010, 10:41 AM
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I spent the weekend running our 4th annual Birdsboro clean and climb.

OR...

Drinking+climbing at your lead limit by moonlight=bashed head and lots of blood

The Climb and Clean was awesome; we accomplished all of our very major infrastructure projects. Although we were not successful removing years of caked up chalk on the classic climbs.

We raised enough funds to run our operation next year and formalize our community into a non profit organization. We hope to start a climbing academy for "at risk" youth. This has been a long term dream for me and I am hoping that this will be the first step torwards that goal.

We did have 1 incident (see above)...a group of climbers decided to climb (after liberal availability of beer) up a climb that was at their lead limit. The leader apparently missed a bolt at the crux, flipped over and hit her unhelmeted head on the rocks below. Lots of blood (I have a photo of the blood stained rock) but she managed to survive the night and walk out in the AM. Kind of scary!


(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 27, 2010, 10:44 AM)


Gmburns2000


Sep 27, 2010, 10:59 AM
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gblauer wrote:
I spent the weekend running our 4th annual Birdsboro clean and climb.

OR...

Drinking+climbing at your lead limit by moonlight=bashed head and lots of blood

The Climb and Clean was awesome; we accomplished all of our very major infrastructure projects. Although we were not successful removing years of caked up chalk on the classic climbs.

We raised enough funds to run our operation next year and formalize our community into a non profit organization. We hope to start a climbing academy for "at risk" youth. This has been a long term dream for me and I am hoping that this will be the first step torwards that goal.

We did have 1 incident (see above)...a group of climbers decided to climb (after liberal availability of beer) up a climb that was at their lead limit. The leader apparently missed a bolt at the crux, flipped over and hit her unhelmeted head on the rocks below. Lots of blood (I have a photo of the blood stained rock) but she managed to survive the night and walk out in the AM. Kind of scary!

glad the event went well and good luck with the at-risk program, that sounds like a good thing.

dayamn! she's gonna have more than one headache the next day I assume!


Gmburns2000


Sep 29, 2010, 12:58 PM
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wow, this made sticky status. considering the difficult start this thread had, thanks to the mod who did that and kudos to everyone who contributes to this thread. here's hoping it stays strong. Cool


j-dubs


Oct 5, 2010, 10:46 AM
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I’m a lurker, but I thought I’d make a delayed (two weekends ago) contribution to this thread. Since moving to Oregon from Chicago about a year ago, I’ve finally become a weekend warrior instead of a “couple of times a season” warrior. The highlight of the season so far was a trip to Smith Rock two weekends ago.

On Saturday, we went to Mesa Verde Wall for the shade and the classic nubbin-studded sport routes. With no easier climbs to warm up on, we dove right in and started on Cosmos, 5.10a. My calves got a flash pump from standing on the little nubbins! Calves duly warmed up, I onsighted Screaming Yellow Zonkers, a 30-meter 5.10b and Planet Luxury, a slightly more than 30-meter 5.10c with a fun aręte + nubbin crux at the top. The sun had almost caught up to us by then, so we hiked over to the Red Wall, where we did a couple of short but fun sport climbs (Dances with Clams and Finger Puppet). I finished the day with some laps on one of them, pushing my limits by not chalking up during the route, although I wasn’t willing to go so far as to leave my chalk bag on the ground. This has been my first season feeling really solid on 5.10 sport, so this was a very satisfying day of climbing.

Sunday, I climbed one of the must-do routes to do at Smith. My partner and I got up at 5:15 am and hiked over to Monkey Face as the sun came up. We climbed the “West Face Direct Variation.” While the guidebook lists it as a variation of a variation, it seems like the most logical and high-quality route to the top that goes at a moderate grade (5.8). I led a trad pitch that had some loose rock, then my partner led a really fun corner. Following the corner, I hung the second rope and the pack below me in anticipation of chimneying, and they instantly felt like they weighed 50 pounds! I was huffing and puffing by the time I finished the corner, but I made it without falling. I got my first taste of aid climbing on the third pitch, a bolt ladder that goes up the overhanging section from a ledge to the monkey's mouth cave. The real highlight of the climb was the fourth pitch, called “Panic Point.” My partner agreed to do the climb on the condition that I lead this pitch. I wouldn’t have had it any other way! You lean out of the cave to find some jugs, then step out onto a vertical face over hundreds of feet of air. This insane exposure lasts for a few bolts, then you weave your way around the nose boulder and up some easy ledges to the summit. After hanging out on the summit long enough to have a bite to eat and bake in the sun for a bit, we tackled the descent, a two-rope, free-hanging rappel off the monkey’s nose. The Panic Point exposure all over again, but this time hanging from a string and spinning around in the wind! Despite our early finish, we were perfectly content to call it a day after that route.

This was a great weekend of climbing, and it got me very excited to make more trips to Smith as it cools down this fall. I’m free all weekend!


donald949


Oct 5, 2010, 11:12 AM
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Nice write up on the monkey face climb. Especially the last pitch. I think I would be content to follow that one.
Monkey


Gmburns2000


Oct 5, 2010, 11:43 AM
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j-dubs wrote:
I’m a lurker, but I thought I’d make a delayed (two weekends ago) contribution to this thread. Since moving to Oregon from Chicago about a year ago, I’ve finally become a weekend warrior instead of a “couple of times a season” warrior. The highlight of the season so far was a trip to Smith Rock two weekends ago.

On Saturday, we went to Mesa Verde Wall for the shade and the classic nubbin-studded sport routes. With no easier climbs to warm up on, we dove right in and started on Cosmos, 5.10a. My calves got a flash pump from standing on the little nubbins! Calves duly warmed up, I onsighted Screaming Yellow Zonkers, a 30-meter 5.10b and Planet Luxury, a slightly more than 30-meter 5.10c with a fun aręte + nubbin crux at the top. The sun had almost caught up to us by then, so we hiked over to the Red Wall, where we did a couple of short but fun sport climbs (Dances with Clams and Finger Puppet). I finished the day with some laps on one of them, pushing my limits by not chalking up during the route, although I wasn’t willing to go so far as to leave my chalk bag on the ground. This has been my first season feeling really solid on 5.10 sport, so this was a very satisfying day of climbing.

Sunday, I climbed one of the must-do routes to do at Smith. My partner and I got up at 5:15 am and hiked over to Monkey Face as the sun came up. We climbed the “West Face Direct Variation.” While the guidebook lists it as a variation of a variation, it seems like the most logical and high-quality route to the top that goes at a moderate grade (5.8). I led a trad pitch that had some loose rock, then my partner led a really fun corner. Following the corner, I hung the second rope and the pack below me in anticipation of chimneying, and they instantly felt like they weighed 50 pounds! I was huffing and puffing by the time I finished the corner, but I made it without falling. I got my first taste of aid climbing on the third pitch, a bolt ladder that goes up the overhanging section from a ledge to the monkey's mouth cave. The real highlight of the climb was the fourth pitch, called “Panic Point.” My partner agreed to do the climb on the condition that I lead this pitch. I wouldn’t have had it any other way! You lean out of the cave to find some jugs, then step out onto a vertical face over hundreds of feet of air. This insane exposure lasts for a few bolts, then you weave your way around the nose boulder and up some easy ledges to the summit. After hanging out on the summit long enough to have a bite to eat and bake in the sun for a bit, we tackled the descent, a two-rope, free-hanging rappel off the monkey’s nose. The Panic Point exposure all over again, but this time hanging from a string and spinning around in the wind! Despite our early finish, we were perfectly content to call it a day after that route.

This was a great weekend of climbing, and it got me very excited to make more trips to Smith as it cools down this fall. I’m free all weekend!

wow, that last pitch sounds like my kind of route! thanks for sharing.


boymeetsrock


Oct 5, 2010, 12:31 PM
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[AA group reply] Hi J-Dubs [/AA reply]

Welcome to the thread and nice send there. Sounds like lots of excitement and a great weekend. Thanks for sharing !


boymeetsrock


Oct 6, 2010, 10:32 AM
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You know what I just noticed that is kinda sad?

The "Gunks High E screaming girl/Cut Rope" thread has almost three times as many vies as this thread. Unsure We gotta get crackin'! Either that or change the title. hehe


ensonik


Oct 12, 2010, 9:23 AM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
We gotta get crackin'! Either that or change the title. hehe

Ok. I guess I'll open myself up to the hordes.

I was out there this weekend with my son (as always). We got Standard Route at Whitehorse Ledge done on Saturday as well as Lakeview at Cannon Cliff (on Sunday).

Last year, my son and I had a small epic on Standard. Lack of experience coupled with it being my second outing on gear had contributed a lot to that epic. This year, we got through the climb and back in under 5 hours, with 1 hour of that spent on Lunch Ledge waiting our turn, and at least 45 minutes at the top admiring the view. We're pretty happy with the progress.

We took the 5.7 variation after the Lunch Ledge ... and I still couldn't avoid the rope drag. WTF needs to be done on that pitch! I feel like 30 foot slings is what's needed at this point :)

Lakeview was by far our most committing climb yet. Cannon Cliff is beautiful ... I've had recurring dreams of it since I laid eyes on it last week. Lakeview, although not a great route, is still very much worth it by the diversity of climbing (crack, layback, stemming, slab) and the commitment.

This summer, I've taken to writing quick and dry trip reports; mostly so that my son will remember what we've done together. I also write them up so that people who want more info on a climb or another have an extra resource as far as beta goes.

http://mikemclean.ca/...nd-in-new-hampshire/

Cheers all (and go easy on me!)


boymeetsrock


Oct 18, 2010, 2:25 PM
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Hey, thanks for sharing ensonik! Sorry I missed this last week. Keep up the adventures and keep sharing. Nice little blog you got there.



I made it out to the Gunks this weekend which was sweet! Got to climb with Greg, Rachel, and Kurt. It was very nice to meet and climb with them. We started with a leisurely outing on V3. Good times. We did all tree pitches and just enjoyed ourselves.

After spending a lot of time up there Kurt and Rachel decided to take their dog for a walk instead of tying her up for the rest of the day. Greg had a bur in his craw to get on Modern Times. I decided I was game.

I lead the first pitch which was nice, but I'm not sure it was 5.7. Certainly not as compared to the 5.8 second pitch. Sly

Greg led P2. After sussing the moves he committed to the overhang and pulled through just fine. Admittedly, I was very unsure if I would be able to follow sans prussic as roofs are not my strong point. Much grunting and heavy breathy carried me through though. We were both super excited. Nothing like cutting the feet free over 150'+ of air!!

It was a great day. The weather was beautiful, the company lovely and the climbing great! Hope to get in one or two more days this season.


gblauer
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Oct 18, 2010, 3:31 PM
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Bummer, you took my place! Greg asked me to follow him up Modern Times. Ok, next time it's me Greg.

Bittersweet weekend for me; it's likely my last serious trad weekend for the season. Mitchal and I are leaving for two weeks of climbing in Potrero and it's likely that it will be too cold to climb when we finally return in Mid November

That said, I am not giving up hope, I am sure that there will some warm days with a 4 hour window of climbing. I know that Bett will be right there with me (Mitch, however, will be staying home, nice and cozy by the fire). So, I haven't completely hung up my trad gear quite yet. Anyone want to climb in the cold? (We climbed in 38 degrees last year, it wasn't very much fun.)

We didn't start climbing on Saturday until 2PM, the wind really put us off starting any earlier. It turned out to be rather pleasant and we climbed until 6:30PM. We warmed up on Ken's. It was gratifying for me, just last year Ken's was a "stretch" climb for me, I had to be really "ready" to lead it. It's nice to see a little progress, albeit very slow progress.

Sunday didn't start very well. We were greeted by a slightly panicked climber asking us to hail a ranger ASAP. A leader decked on Frog's Head. (We were headed to Frog's Head to warm up.) Mitch ran for a ranger, I called the preserve and the rangers set off to rescue the climber. She fell at the crux, pulled two pieces and hit the deck with rope stretch. Although we didn't know it at the time, the climber refused medical treatment. Thank goodness she was ok, we have had too many accidents lately.

Anyways, the start of the day made me wiggy most of the day until I decided to lead Baby. (Another climb that used to scare the heck out of me.) I stood at the offwidth for a minute or two and then fired off and effortlessly finished the two/three moves to the jug. Ahhhh...progress...it feels so good. (Even if it's sloooooooow).


jakedatc


Oct 18, 2010, 6:50 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Too bad you're leaving Gail.. i want to get on Modern times too. my working friday and saturdays and having sunday and week days free messes with most folks schedule tho :/


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 18, 2010, 6:51 PM)


gblauer
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Oct 18, 2010, 6:53 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
Too bad you're leaving Gail.. i want to get on Modern times too. my working friday and saturdays and having sunday and week days free messes with most folks schedule tho :/

Very tempting, I have a flexible schedule...When are you going to be at the gunks?


jakedatc


Oct 18, 2010, 7:00 PM
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If i was insane i could be there tonight/tomorrow morning and wednesday lol weather looks nicer than what i was originally looking at sunday-monday


blueeyedclimber


Oct 18, 2010, 7:13 PM
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Gail, Have a great trip and be safe!

We didn't get out this weekend but last weekend we were in the Gunks and I got to climb with Gabe (cracklover). Gabe and I have partnered up a few times and are pretty compatible. I was hoping to get on something hard this weekend, but I also wanted to play good host and make sure Gabe got his fill since who knows when he would get here again.

Day 1 - Boldville 5.8; Tweak or Freak, 5.10a; The Spring 5.9; The Summer 5.11c (TR), Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)

Day 2 - Insuhlation 5.9, Doubleissima 5.10b, Enduro-Man 5.11c (pitch 3), The Winter 5.10d

Day 3 - Face to Face 5.10a; Interstice 5.10b (first pitch)

We didn't get a ton of pitches in, but they were all high quality, so I think Gabe left happy.

Josh


gblauer
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Oct 18, 2010, 7:22 PM
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Did Tiff tell you that "G" finally sent C&C? She ran up to me all excited and giggly.

(Thought you would like to know...:Wink)

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