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On-sight or Flash?
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jsaunders


Oct 8, 2010, 7:10 AM
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On-sight or Flash?
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Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?


Guran


Oct 8, 2010, 7:16 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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Actually merely knowing what route you climbed ruins the onsight. Come to think about it, you should not even be aware that you are climbing at all.


kennoyce


Oct 8, 2010, 7:45 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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If you have to ask, it's probably a flash.


spikeddem


Oct 8, 2010, 7:56 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

IMO, you need to be more specific.


Express


Oct 8, 2010, 9:47 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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Better if you're out climbing for the very first time and its a free solo. Then, if after finishing the route, you get approval by a committee of the ghosts of dead climbers, you can get your pure uranium onsight medallion.


hafilax


Oct 8, 2010, 9:53 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?
Knowing the grade makes it borderline IMO.

The only onsight I consider having done involved climbing at a crag I had never been to before without the guidebook (or the relevant climbs memorized) and climbing a crack that looked doable. Couldn't even see the whole line or the anchor and just went for it.


dynosore


Oct 8, 2010, 10:06 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

Ah, the notorious "read on". Read on my man. Just don't onflash a route, that is soooo gumby.


jsaunders


Oct 8, 2010, 11:34 AM
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Re: [dynosore] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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I appreciate the feedback folks. I guess from the varied responses you could understand why someone might be confused on the difference. There's no ego in my game. I'll get just as much enjoyment finishing a 12c or a 5.3 with the right partner on belay.


spikeddem


Oct 8, 2010, 11:53 AM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
I appreciate the feedback folks. I guess from the varied responses you could understand why someone might be confused on the difference. There's no ego in my game. I'll get just as much enjoyment finishing a 12c or a 5.3 with the right partner on belay.

The greatest RC riddle has been solved!


bustloose


Oct 8, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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only here will you get confused on the difference between to very different events in climbing.

onsight - to climb the route, ground up, with no falls, with no prior knowledge of the route. reading the name and grade in the guidebook does not count as prior knowledge. if the description says "watch out for the sweet hidden undercling in the crux, it'll save your life", then some might argue you did not onsight.

flash - to climb the route, ground up, with no falls, with any and every piece of info you get your hands on, including people shouting move by move beta to you as you climb.


giggly


Oct 8, 2010, 1:17 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
I appreciate the feedback folks. I guess from the varied responses you could understand why someone might be confused on the difference. There's no ego in my game. I'll get just as much enjoyment finishing a 12c or a 5.3 with the right partner on belay.

Flash is generally a bouldering term.
If you flash a problem it means that you have climbed the boulder on your first try.

If you onsight a roped climb it means that you climbed to the top of the route on the first try with out falling.

If you red point a route then you have climb the route unsuccessfully and then climbed the route without falls.

You can work a route and then get a red point

If you climb the route first try without falling you get the onsight

If you climb the boulder first try you get the flash

there has been trends of using the term pink point but it is not universally accepted or known. It is just a trend where people either don't know what there talking about or they are trying to be cute and create some new word so that they can feel some sort of gratification.


LostinMaine


Oct 8, 2010, 1:46 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

That depends. Did you actually climb the route or simply read about it? I normally on-sight most of my literature, but I did burn my organic chemistry book to watch oxidation in real-time.


xaniel2000


Oct 8, 2010, 1:48 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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In my mind, if you watch someone else climb the route before you try it, and then you climb it without falls, that's a flash. You saw someone else work the moves first, so you had beta that probably helped you send. Vice versa, if you climb it first, then you're onsighting, and your partner is the one who will potentially 'flash' the route. Things like chalky holds, tick marks, and guidebook descriptions reduce the purity of your onsight, but I'd still call it an onsight so long as it was your first ever attempt of the route and you'd never seen anyone else climb it.

That's just my way of keeping it simple. A gray area would be if you'd watched videos, read comments online, etc, not sure what to make of that, and also don't really give that much of sh&t to worry about it!


Partner robdotcalm


Oct 8, 2010, 1:58 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

Once you've read about the route, it becomes a flashlite.

r.c


hafilax


Oct 8, 2010, 2:30 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

Once you've read about the route, it becomes a flashlite.

r.c
I accidentally the whole thing!


giggly


Oct 8, 2010, 3:14 PM
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Re: [xaniel2000] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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Flash=boulder problem climbed on first try without
falls

Onsight= rope climb lead onfirst try without falls


swoopee


Oct 8, 2010, 8:49 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

John? It is whatever you want to call it. But to me, the descriptions in "Selected Climbs in North Carolina", which I assume you are referring to, are really not nearly detailed enough to count as beta. I am sure that many on here will disagree with me but that's my $0.02 worth. Smile


clc


Oct 8, 2010, 9:44 PM
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Re: [giggly] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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giggly wrote:
Flash=boulder problem climbed on first try without
falls

Onsight= rope climb lead onfirst try without falls

Your half right.
What you consider an Onsight is actually a flash.
An onsight is what you said plus no prior knowledge except name and grade.


giggly


Oct 8, 2010, 10:22 PM
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Re: [clc] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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No.
I am not half right.
I am 100% rite.


areyoumydude


Oct 8, 2010, 10:46 PM
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Re: [jsaunders] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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jsaunders wrote:
I'll get just as much enjoyment finishing a 12c or a 5.3 with the right partner on belay.

You climb 5.3 with a partner?


swoopee


Oct 9, 2010, 6:05 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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LostinMaine wrote:
jsaunders wrote:
Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight?

That depends. Did you actually climb the route or simply read about it? I normally on-sight most of my literature, but I did burn my organic chemistry book to watch oxidation in real-time.

Laugh


curt


Oct 9, 2010, 10:43 AM
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Re: [giggly] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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giggly wrote:
...there has been trends of using the term pink point but it is not universally accepted or known. It is just a trend where people either don't know what there talking about or they are trying to be cute and create some new word so that they can feel some sort of gratification.

It's always good for a chuckle when someone accuses others of not knowing what they're talking about--when they, in fact, don't know what they're talking about. Cool

Curt


CliffDestructo


Oct 9, 2010, 4:53 PM
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Re: [curt] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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Good grief

You can on sight or flash both climbs or problems

If you have not been on the problem or climb before and have no other beta except for where the climb or problem goes and no one is giving you running beta then it is a Onsight.

If you have beta or have watched someone on the route or problem then its a Flash

If you've been on it before it is neither

have fun and climb


gosharks


Oct 10, 2010, 2:32 PM
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Re: [giggly] On-sight or Flash? [In reply to]
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giggly wrote:
Flash=boulder problem climbed on first try without
falls

Onsight= rope climb lead onfirst try without falls
wrong.


giggly


Oct 10, 2010, 2:39 PM
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Right

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