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robdotcalm
Oct 1, 2010, 6:30 PM
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Here’s a picture taken yesterday at Vedauwoo of a belayer needlessly endangering himself and the climber. The trench in front of him is about 8 feet deep.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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Kartessa
Oct 1, 2010, 6:35 PM
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His face will look like a pancake!
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Gmburns2000
Oct 1, 2010, 7:30 PM
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Kartessa wrote: His face will look like a pancake!
more like a hashbrown, the kind you find at Burger King...mmmm...Burger King...
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darkgift06
Oct 1, 2010, 9:05 PM
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I feel like I've seen this photo in the past...
or maybe just a belayer at the same climb doing the same thing.
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notapplicable
Oct 2, 2010, 1:14 AM
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robdotcalm wrote: Here’s a picture taken yesterday at Vedauwoo of a belayer needlessly endangering himself and the climber. The trench in front of him is about 8 feet deep. Cheers, Rob.calm
Soft catch...gotta have it!!
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USnavy
Oct 2, 2010, 3:09 AM
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I have seen worse.
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robdotcalm
Oct 2, 2010, 3:00 PM
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darkgift06 wrote: I feel like I've seen this photo in the past... or maybe just a belayer at the same climb doing the same thing.
Yes, you’ve seen a similar picture that I took in Boulder Canyon last year
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
Belaying unattached from a high spot is not uncommon. I saw a similar incident in South St. Vrain’s Canyon this spring. As healyje mentioned in a different thread, “stance” has become a forgotten element in belaying for too many new climbers. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ring=stance;#2398816
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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marc801
Oct 2, 2010, 4:15 PM
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How does that pic relate to "Belaying unattached from a high spot is not uncommon..."?
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whipper
Oct 2, 2010, 4:18 PM
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Want to explain just what is wrong in the Wiki photo? its a top rope.....
And The Vedawoo picture is fine....Its not like he is just going to fall into a ditch, if the leader falls he might swing in, but his weight will be counter balanced. I would have no prob with my partners who have been climbing as long as I have (19 years) belaying like that if they felt comfy. Esp if it is a moderate route that I am not going to fall on, if I was working a hard line, then it would be diff, and yes I have a pretty good idea what I will fall on, and what I wont.
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socalclimber
Oct 2, 2010, 5:39 PM
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Is this the only choice for the belayer? Trad route, sport, lead or toprope?
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Oct 2, 2010, 5:40 PM)
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billl7
Oct 2, 2010, 6:38 PM
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I'd ask him to at least sit down. Even better if he can then stick his legs out against the wall whilst belaying.
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boymeetsrock
Oct 2, 2010, 8:23 PM
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billl7 wrote: I'd ask him to at least sit down. Even better if he can then stick his legs out against the wall whilst belaying.
That'd be one tall mofo.
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robdotcalm
Oct 6, 2010, 5:53 PM
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Yesterday, Ben and I returned to the Old Folks’ Wall. I took a couple of pictures which will help answer some of the questions.
Socal wrote:
Is this the only choice for the belayer? Trad route, sport, lead or toprope?
A much better belay spot is to the right. Stable without a tie-in, but a tie-in is easy. Another advantage is that standing on top makes for a very short distance to the first bolt (the crux move on the climb) so that a fall would result in fall factor of at least one, which would surely pull the belayer off his perch. I’m not sure what the point of your second question is, but Thriller (9+) is a slab route with some cracks. 4 bolts + some cams for protection. Here’s Ben modeling the safe belay spot
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill7 wrote:
I'd ask him to at least sit down. Even better if he can then stick his legs out against the wall whilst belaying.
Feet won’t reach. Here’s Ben modeling:
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Whipper wrote:
Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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dingus
Oct 6, 2010, 6:17 PM
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whipper wrote: Want to explain just what is wrong in the Wiki photo?
Laybacking a good jam crack, that's what's wrong with that pic.
DMT
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reaeper
Oct 9, 2010, 11:56 PM
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dingus wrote: whipper wrote: Want to explain just what is wrong in the Wiki photo? Laybacking a good jam crack, that's what's wrong with that pic. DMT
Looks more like a layback to me :P
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whipper
Oct 11, 2010, 12:11 AM
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robdotcalm wrote: Whipper wrote: Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most. Cheers, Rob.calm
Up yours rob.douche. Not all of us a safety nazis that have to critique every ones 3 point, serene anchors. I grantee that you would not like climbing with me, because I am not scared, just as I would not like climbing with you because you are.
Any one ever noticed that scared and weak tend to go hand in hand?
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Rora
Oct 11, 2010, 2:59 AM
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 he'll look like this guy<<
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Rora
Oct 11, 2010, 3:00 AM
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he'll look like this!! <<
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jt512
Oct 11, 2010, 3:49 AM
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whipper wrote: robdotcalm wrote: Whipper wrote: Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most. Cheers, Rob.calm Up yours rob.douche. Not all of us a safety nazis that have to critique every ones 3 point, serene anchors. I grantee that you would not like climbing with me, because I am not scared, just as I would not like climbing with you because you are. Any one ever noticed that scared and weak tend to go hand in hand?
*plonk*
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petsfed
Oct 11, 2010, 4:52 AM
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whipper wrote: robdotcalm wrote: Whipper wrote: Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most. Cheers, Rob.calm Up yours rob.douche. Not all of us a safety nazis that have to critique every ones 3 point, serene anchors. I grantee that you would not like climbing with me, because I am not scared, just as I would not like climbing with you because you are. Any one ever noticed that scared and weak tend to go hand in hand?
Don't get me wrong, Rob and I have different approaches to risk management, but that was just uncalled for. If better options are available, and falling off of your belay stance endangers both climbers (as it typically does), then maybe you need to rethink your approach.
"Just don't fall" should really only apply to climbers, not belayers, dig?
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jt512
Oct 11, 2010, 4:58 AM
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petsfed wrote: whipper wrote: robdotcalm wrote: Whipper wrote: Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most. Cheers, Rob.calm Up yours rob.douche. Not all of us a safety nazis that have to critique every ones 3 point, serene anchors. I grantee that you would not like climbing with me, because I am not scared, just as I would not like climbing with you because you are. Any one ever noticed that scared and weak tend to go hand in hand? Don't get me wrong, Rob and I have different approaches to risk management, but that was just uncalled for. If better options are available, and falling off of your belay stance endangers both climbers (as it typically does), then maybe you need to rethink your approach.
It's pretty clear that thinking (re- or otherwise) isn't whipper's forte.
Jay
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el_layclimber
Oct 11, 2010, 5:04 AM
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Christ, what an asshole. I am sure if you had just stuck around long enough you would have gotten the picture of him spontaneously combusting. I bet he lifts weights and eats steak too, what a fucking tool. Probably doesn't stick clip, or maybe he does. Fucking Nazi probably uses a cordlette and a daisy chain at the same time. Either way I hate him. I bet his shoes are too tight, and his pants aren't cool, and he has campfires. Probably just took off his beanie and put on a shirt for that photo, poser. I bet he either sport or trad climbs, depending on what I hate most. Good thing you got on the internets to warn all of us about where to stand. Someone should bolt that boulder and make it safe.
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whipper
Oct 11, 2010, 5:56 AM
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jt512 wrote: petsfed wrote: whipper wrote: robdotcalm wrote: Whipper wrote: Something about his prescience and that he’s been climbing for 19 years. Good luck dude. We all need it, but you, perhaps, a bit more so than most. Cheers, Rob.calm Up yours rob.douche. Not all of us a safety nazis that have to critique every ones 3 point, serene anchors. I grantee that you would not like climbing with me, because I am not scared, just as I would not like climbing with you because you are. Any one ever noticed that scared and weak tend to go hand in hand? Don't get me wrong, Rob and I have different approaches to risk management, but that was just uncalled for. If better options are available, and falling off of your belay stance endangers both climbers (as it typically does), then maybe you need to rethink your approach. It's pretty clear that thinking (re- or otherwise) isn't whipper's forte. Jay
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rightarmbad
Oct 11, 2010, 6:13 AM
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If it is a factor 1 fall, there is no way he can fall down, he will be lifted for sure.
If they were a beginner belayer, then I may be worried, but if experienced I would have no problem with their stance.
An experienced belayer would simply step onto the wall as they were lifted.
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