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rainman0915
Oct 15, 2010, 11:17 PM
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I recently bought a 00 Metolious Master Cam and after placing it maybe 3 or 4 times under aid climbing body weight conditions the rubber on the thumb loop that protects the sling from being cut by the wire split leaving the wire exposed. This was only several weeks after my friend placed a 1/2 Offset Master cam (also under aid climbing body weight only conditions) and had the cam stop blow out, under body weight!
I was planning on getting a lot more Master Cams, but now im a bit more than slightly apprehensive.
Has anyone else had similar issue? Any thoughts on how or why these things might have happened?
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healyje
Oct 16, 2010, 12:57 AM
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Contact Metolius, they'll want to hear about any problem with the loop material. As far as the blown cam stops - it's not a problem I've ever experienced or heard of, a little hard to imagine with one as large as a 1/2 under straight bodyweight. I suppose I could see it if it was a placed way undercammed and then bounced on wrong, or if it slipped into a way undercammed situation. They aren't really designed as passive pro.
From http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...returns-repairs.html
=================================
Limited Warranty
Metolius Climbing products are warranted to the original retail purchaser to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one year and will be replaced without charge, if after inspection by us, no misuse or alteration is disclosed. Metolius Climbing makes no other warranty expressed or implied.
Returns/Repairs
Please call our customer service line at (541) 382-7585 to request a Return Authorization Number (RA#). Write the RA# on the outside of the box. Then ship it on to us at Metolius.
Metolius Climbing
63189 Nels Anderson Rd.
Bend, Oregon 97701
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notapplicable
Oct 16, 2010, 2:43 AM
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You should definitely contact Metolius and send them the cam(s) if they ask. If you do, let us know what they say.
FWIW, I've been climbing on power cams and TCU's for as long as I've been climbing and never had any problems. Never really heard of many other people having problems either.
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socalclimber
Oct 16, 2010, 3:08 AM
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Agreed with the above sentiments. I used to do a ton of aid climbing and have never had either of those problems. Definitely contact them.
Could you post some pictures of the damaged cams?
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robpatterson5
Oct 16, 2010, 5:31 AM
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A few years ago I asked Metolious about the strength of their cam stops on their TCU/Powercams - their response was that the 00/0 were rated to 1.5kN, 1 and 2 to 10kN and the rest 15kN. Looking at my Master Cams, the tolerances are tight where the cam stops and the cord attachment meet, the stops are just little nubbins like as I remember on the 00/0 TCUs. I wouldn't be surprised if the 1 and 2 Master Cam can stops were weaker then the more substantive stops on the 1 and 2 TCU/Powercams.
Looking at them I'm surprised, but not that surprised, at the failure of the Offset. Love to hear what Metolious says but aid is hard on gear.
When I emailed them a few years ago they were happy to send the passive strength of their units but made the point of not recommending they be used passively.
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olderic
Oct 16, 2010, 1:54 PM
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More of an Alien replacement than you bargained for?
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granite_grrl
Oct 16, 2010, 2:18 PM
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Metolious cams are not BD cams, their cam stops aren't rated.
My husband blew out the cam stops on my 0 (purple) TCU when aiding. The cam stops on the small ones just aren't that strong. The stops on the larger sizes are integrated with the lobed and shouldn't have the same problem.
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bearbreeder
Oct 16, 2010, 5:24 PM
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its actually quite useful for small cams to be rated a passive ...
in small placements you never really know if your cam is bomber .... if it fails and the circumstance are right ... theres always the chance that it could act as a stopper and hold
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robpatterson5
Oct 16, 2010, 7:43 PM
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I agree, one of the features I did not like in Aliens was their complete lack of stops
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eyeklimb
Oct 18, 2010, 3:09 AM
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I just sent in a Power Cam that had the wire blow after 2 placements only a couple weeks ago. I called their office and spoke with someone there who suggested taking photos of the issue and emailing it to them.
info@metoliusclimbing.com
I took about 4 pics of the problem, and attached them, along with a full, detailed description of what happened, and they replied about 2 days later, with a return number and asked that I send it to them. I wrote the number all over the box and mailed it via USPS for like 4 bucks. Then, all of a sudden about a week and a half after I sent it, I got an email from UPS saying I would be receiving a package from Metolius. The communication wasn't that great after sending in my cam, but they sent it back with a full rewire. So, I 'd say that's probably the best way of going about getting any warrantee issues taken care of.
With that said, the guy I talked to on the phone said that "user error is not covered under the one year warrantee, and all warrantee claims are handled at the discression of the company's repair dept." Sounded a little bogus, like they're trying to cop out of having to replace cams. But definitely send them pics and a full description of the problem before mailing away your old cam.
Hopefully that helps. Sorry bout your gear dude, that sucks.
Below is a copy of the email I received back (dated 9/9/10) from Metolius, so you have some sort of idea what it is you're looking at having to deal with...
"Chris,
Please send the cam to us for warranty inspection. Please mark the
package "RA # 1234" and mail to:
Metolius Returns
63189 Nels Anderson Rd
Bend, OR 97701
We will either repair or replace the cam for you after it has been
examined by our techs.
Best regards,
Pat Carr
Metolius Customer Service"
Edited to add email.
(This post was edited by eyeklimb on Oct 18, 2010, 3:10 AM)
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notapplicable
Oct 18, 2010, 3:37 AM
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robpatterson5 wrote: I agree, one of the features I did not like in Aliens was their complete lack of stops
If you got past the self-destructo feature [patent pending], I don't see why a lack of cam stops would raise an eyebrow.
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