Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
anchor replacement needed
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


sonso45


Oct 16, 2010, 3:22 PM
Post #1 of 7 (1906 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2002
Posts: 965

anchor replacement needed  (North_America: United_States: Arizona)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have an idea that anchors in some of central Arizona's areas are in need of some love and care. I'm curious to hear what others may think.

Which area in Arizona, not just central, needs replacing of old or worn anchors?

I have a couple areas in mind, one is McDowells. Any others?


sed


Oct 16, 2010, 9:54 PM
Post #2 of 7 (1845 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356

Re: [sonso45] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Good thought Manny. I'd love to go hog wild in the sups and redo some anchors but alas..., that's illegal, and you know I would never break the law.

The anchors most in need of replacing, unfortunately, are the ones in isolated crags with difficult access because it's hard lug bolting gear and commit to the project. It would be cool to do a version of adopt a crag whereby locals would storm an area and systematically ungrade anchors and mank along with FA support.
Sc


RomanD


Oct 24, 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #3 of 7 (1762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 3

Re: [sonso45] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is the bolting ban in the Supes for new anchors only? I seem to remember DeGrazia getting a rebolting a few years ago.

The most obvious candidate in my eyes is the McDowell Mtns. Between Morell's wall, Gardnener's wall and Tom's Thumb, I know probably a dozen climbs protected by rusty old leepers.
Attachments: bolt.jpg (113 KB)


sonso45


Oct 25, 2010, 6:21 AM
Post #4 of 7 (1731 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2002
Posts: 965

Re: [RomanD] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Supes & Mcdowells are in desperate need for sure. The bolting ban in the Supes was in total at first. The ban was rescinded in all wilderness areas but the local supervisor jas kept it un place.

We can try yo forward our agenda again.

The Mcdowells need.lkt of love. Safety in the park is important to Scottsdale. I can contact the manager amd begon a dialog. They love volunteers.

Any other areas come to mind?
In reply to:


RomanD


Oct 25, 2010, 10:20 AM
Post #5 of 7 (1701 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 3

Re: [sonso45] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm pretty sure many of the anchors at Little Granite Mountain are of the same era as the McDowell's, but I haven't been out there in a while.

There are many routes in Sedona that could use help as well (for example putting glue-ins in place of drilled angles at belays), although I foresee it being a pain as stuff is so spread out.


sun2stone


Oct 30, 2010, 8:12 PM
Post #6 of 7 (1655 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 3

Re: [sonso45] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I can't believe the timing for the bolt replacement
ideas. you will see improvement in Mcdwls Morrells wall Nov 2010, I will take care of Mutt/Jeff, Leave it to Beaver, Sinbad . Chris


climball


Nov 2, 2010, 8:08 AM
Post #7 of 7 (1599 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 12

Re: [sun2stone] anchor replacement needed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The first place that came to my mind before reading the other replies was the Soups.
After that I thought about all the times I've seen people TRing and being lowered through cold shuts at Jacks Canyon on all the moderate routes. Some of those were pretty worn the last time I visited there. But that is more Northern AZ and I've seen some of those anchors replaced but not a lot.

(This post was edited by climball on Nov 2, 2010, 8:11 AM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.06 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)
$10.89 (10% off)
$32.36 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook