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jkd159
Oct 20, 2010, 1:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2007
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Hi All,
I'm trying to get more information about two accidents which occurred years ago. In the first incident, a prominent climber with numerous first ascents to his name was guiding a client when rappel failure led to his death. The client had gone down first and the guide was coming down second when the failure occurred. Five to ten years ago, possibly in Red Rock or City of Rocks.
The second incident involves a crevasse rescue where the victim was not monitored. The rope cut into the lip of the crevasse. Too many rescuers pulling with too much mechanical advantage killed the victim by attempting to pull her through the crevasse lip.
I have access to quite a few volumes of Accidents In North American Mountaineering, but without knowing a year I haven't been able to find these accidents. Google hasn't been able to find anything either.
These accident reports are going to be used to set the tone for specific lessons in an Introduction to Self Rescue class. Thanks for any help you can provide.
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lostcause
Oct 20, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
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I don't know many more details on the second accident than what you've listed but I've heard of that happening on the Kihiltna Glacier in Denali Park. Not a lot of help but maybe the location will help in your search.
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brianinslc
Oct 20, 2010, 4:00 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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jkd159 wrote: I'm trying to get more information about two accidents which occurred years ago. In the first incident, a prominent climber with numerous first ascents to his name was guiding a client when rappel failure led to his death. The client had gone down first and the guide was coming down second when the failure occurred. Five to ten years ago, possibly in Red Rock or City of Rocks
Randall Grandstaff, 2002, and I think the Great Red Book was the route.
The second one sounds familiar as mentioned on the Kahiltna. But, not sure. Was in ANAM as I recall.
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jkd159
Oct 20, 2010, 4:12 PM
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Thanks for all the information so far. The rappelling accident I was trying to remember was definitely Randall Grandstaff's. Thanks. And now I've got something to go on for the Kahiltna Glacier accident. I think it was over a decade ago, but skimming through old volumes of ANAM hasn't turned it up.
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majid_sabet
Oct 29, 2010, 1:16 AM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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contact AAC and ask for Jed. They could have some reports which was not published in ANAM but they may have the record .
John E. (Jed) Williamson
7 River Ridge Road
Hanover, NH 03755
e-mail: jedwmsn@mac.com
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Oct 29, 2010, 1:16 AM)
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