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USnavy


Oct 20, 2010, 6:53 PM
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Options for racking slings?
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Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?


bill413


Oct 20, 2010, 7:21 PM
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I carry most of my "dental floss" single length slings as tripled up "trad draws." I can get them off my harness with either hand, & extend them single handed.

I carry some over my shoulder...I need to have my right hand free to get them off.

I carry a double length over the same shoulder, doubled in such a way (with a biner) that I can get it off over my head, or unclip the biner & remove it even if the right hand is locked up.

I figure that if I'm in a position where I can't free up a hand to extend the slings, I'll put up with a less than optimum length.

The extra biners? Depends on how you look at the total system of how you rack & place your gear.


TarHeelEMT


Oct 20, 2010, 7:25 PM
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I just carry a mix of slings over my shoulder and 3-6 trad draws depending on how much passive pro I anticipate using. There are other options, sure, but there's no need to over complicate things. I'll carry an extra biner for a draw if it means I get to avoid fumbling with another system.


jakedatc


Oct 20, 2010, 8:01 PM
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Re: [bill413] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
I carry most of my "dental floss" single length slings as tripled up "trad draws." I can get them off my harness with either hand, & extend them single handed.

I carry some over my shoulder...I need to have my right hand free to get them off.

I carry a double length over the same shoulder, doubled in such a way (with a biner) that I can get it off over my head, or unclip the biner & remove it even if the right hand is locked up.

I figure that if I'm in a position where I can't free up a hand to extend the slings, I'll put up with a less than optimum length.

The extra biners? Depends on how you look at the total system of how you rack & place your gear.

Bill for a 4' sling you should just clip both ends together with a biner so you just unclip the biner and pull it out.. nothing over the head.

personally every cam gets a racking biner and all my slings are in draw form. Makes re-racking easier, faster. at the moment i rack on a sling and keep the draws on both sides of my harness. i tried over the shoulder and i don't like it.


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Oct 20, 2010, 8:09 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
bill413 wrote:
I carry most of my "dental floss" single length slings as tripled up "trad draws." I can get them off my harness with either hand, & extend them single handed.

I carry some over my shoulder...I need to have my right hand free to get them off.

I carry a double length over the same shoulder, doubled in such a way (with a biner) that I can get it off over my head, or unclip the biner & remove it even if the right hand is locked up.

I figure that if I'm in a position where I can't free up a hand to extend the slings, I'll put up with a less than optimum length.

The extra biners? Depends on how you look at the total system of how you rack & place your gear.

Bill for a 4' sling you should just clip both ends together with a biner so you just unclip the biner and pull it out.. nothing over the head.

personally every cam gets a racking biner and all my slings are in draw form. Makes re-racking easier, faster. at the moment i rack on a sling and keep the draws on both sides of my harness. i tried over the shoulder and i don't like it.
I think you are both talking about the same thing...


pendereki


Oct 20, 2010, 8:22 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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To rack a sling on only one 'biner, clip one end of the sling to the 'biner, put your finger through the loop and twist a few times until the sling starts to wind up like a balsa wood airplane's rubber band. Then clip the end where you have your finger to the biner also. This will twist up and make a neat braid hanging from the 'biner.


jakedatc


Oct 20, 2010, 8:23 PM
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Re: [epoch] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
bill413 wrote:
I carry most of my "dental floss" single length slings as tripled up "trad draws." I can get them off my harness with either hand, & extend them single handed.

I carry some over my shoulder...I need to have my right hand free to get them off.

I carry a double length over the same shoulder, doubled in such a way (with a biner) that I can get it off over my head, or unclip the biner & remove it even if the right hand is locked up.

I figure that if I'm in a position where I can't free up a hand to extend the slings, I'll put up with a less than optimum length.

The extra biners? Depends on how you look at the total system of how you rack & place your gear.

Bill for a 4' sling you should just clip both ends together with a biner so you just unclip the biner and pull it out.. nothing over the head.

personally every cam gets a racking biner and all my slings are in draw form. Makes re-racking easier, faster. at the moment i rack on a sling and keep the draws on both sides of my harness. i tried over the shoulder and i don't like it.
I think you are both talking about the same thing...

probably.. i missed the 'or' why you'd pull it over your head when you can unclip threw me off.


jakedatc


Oct 20, 2010, 8:26 PM
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Re: [pendereki] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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pendereki wrote:
To rack a sling on only one 'biner, clip one end of the sling to the 'biner, put your finger through the loop and twist a few times until the sling starts to wind up like a balsa wood airplane's rubber band. Then clip the end where you have your finger to the biner also. This will twist up and make a neat braid hanging from the 'biner.

I do that with my 4' and spectra cordolette. to do that with every shoulder sling is a major time and cleaning issues. also more of a pain in the ass while using it too. and you need a pile of spare biners for passive stuff


bill413


Oct 21, 2010, 5:34 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
epoch wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
bill413 wrote:
I carry most of my "dental floss" single length slings as tripled up "trad draws." I can get them off my harness with either hand, & extend them single handed.

I carry some over my shoulder...I need to have my right hand free to get them off.

I carry a double length over the same shoulder, doubled in such a way (with a biner) that I can get it off over my head, or unclip the biner & remove it even if the right hand is locked up.

I figure that if I'm in a position where I can't free up a hand to extend the slings, I'll put up with a less than optimum length.

The extra biners? Depends on how you look at the total system of how you rack & place your gear.

Bill for a 4' sling you should just clip both ends together with a biner so you just unclip the biner and pull it out.. nothing over the head.

personally every cam gets a racking biner and all my slings are in draw form. Makes re-racking easier, faster. at the moment i rack on a sling and keep the draws on both sides of my harness. i tried over the shoulder and i don't like it.
I think you are both talking about the same thing...

probably.. i missed the 'or' why you'd pull it over your head when you can unclip threw me off.

Indeed, we are talking about the same thing.

I tend to use the pull over the head technique instead of the unclip the biner technique because...umm...errr...habit. I'm using the same motion to retrieve a sling over my shoulder whether it's double or single. I guess the other thing is that I'll usually have the biner on the piece already, the one that lives on the sling will probably be the rope end, so it seems more efficient to me.

But, I suspect it's mostly habit.


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Oct 21, 2010, 5:44 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

Let me make sure I understand. You have 2' runners, each with a single biner, right? If so, a couple ideas. Tie them up in slip knots or short daisy chains and rack them on your harness. Then you could just clip to your protection and yank the knots out. Alternatively, you could clip one end of each runner to its biner, twist the hell out of it, and then rack it on your harness. Clip, untwist, clip.

Edit: Just tossing out ideas. Personally, I prefer "trad draws."


(This post was edited by j_ung on Oct 21, 2010, 5:45 AM)


shimanilami


Oct 21, 2010, 7:57 AM
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I double my 4' slings (I carry 2), then tie them into a loose figure-8, and then clip all four loops with a 'biner that I hang in the back of my harness. It's pretty neat and tidy, and if/when I run into a 2-bolt anchor, I've got a ready-made anchor good to go.


MS1


Oct 21, 2010, 8:58 AM
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j_ung wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

Let me make sure I understand. You have 2' runners, each with a single biner, right? If so, a couple ideas. Tie them up in slip knots or short daisy chains and rack them on your harness. Then you could just clip to your protection and yank the knots out. Alternatively, you could clip one end of each runner to its biner, twist the hell out of it, and then rack it on your harness. Clip, untwist, clip.

Edit: Just tossing out ideas. Personally, I prefer "trad draws."

This is what I do; for longer single pitch lines I often bring a mix of trad draws and slip-knotted slings on single biners. I like having a few nylon slings handy in case I need to leave a sling behind, but they rack horribly as trad draws and I've never liked the over-the-shoulder method. This way I both save a few biners worth of weight and also have the slings neatly racked on my harness, where I can easily deploy them with either hand. I've found I can actually clip in to a cam more quickly with this set-up than trad draws, because it's faster to pull out a slip-knot than to drop the loops out of a trad-draw biner, so it is also handy at cruxy sections.

(Not that my trad leading generally involves much that could be called "cruxy" in any legitimate sense.)


bearbreeder


Oct 21, 2010, 11:22 AM
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doubled or trippled over on mu harness

maybe a few over the shoulder, usually the ones with dem funkay revolving biners


Colinhoglund


Oct 21, 2010, 12:13 PM
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Not that other methods wont work. But I find the tripled sling (trad draw) method the most convenient, besides you need 2 biners to clip nuts anyways. When I use single biners from these draws, then I carry them over my shoulder and use them with cams only when convenient for the hand I have free. Double length slings are trippled on lockers, twisted and one locker clipped to the other.

I like having my gear on my harness I guess. I also keep my ice clippers on during the summer and keep a couple of cheap nylon slings daisied on them, as well as a quicklink (incase of rapping of a tree) and a Tiblock just in case of a rescue situation. I also clip my nuts and nut tool to the ice clippers for convenience.


Partner climboard


Oct 21, 2010, 12:28 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
pendereki wrote:
To rack a sling on only one 'biner, clip one end of the sling to the 'biner, put your finger through the loop and twist a few times until the sling starts to wind up like a balsa wood airplane's rubber band. Then clip the end where you have your finger to the biner also. This will twist up and make a neat braid hanging from the 'biner.

I do that with my 4' and spectra cordolette. to do that with every shoulder sling is a major time and cleaning issues. also more of a pain in the ass while using it too. and you need a pile of spare biners for passive stuff

Same here. While I prefer trad draws for my singles I rack my doubles in this way.

Having extra biners with this setup has not been an issue for me, but if it is a big concern why not carry half over your shoulder and half tripled as trad draws? That would seem to be a good compromise.


chrisJoosse


Oct 22, 2010, 10:58 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

Why do you need to switch hands to get off an over-the-shoulder sling?

Say I'm in a stance where my left hand is in a finger-crack, (my shoulder-slings go over my left shoulder) and I'm protecting at chest-height with a cam, and I want to extend the cam quickly. I plug the cam with my right hand, pull one of my shoulder-runners over my head so it's hanging on my left arm. I clip the runner to the cam using the cam's biner, and clip the runner to the rope using the runner's biner. Now the piece is extended and clipped, and when I climb on, I just need to slip my left arm out of the runner.

I carry a mix of tripled draws on my harness and single-length slings with single biners over-the-shoulder. If I need to extend cams, I'm faster with the shoulder-slings, they're already extended. For any pro that isn't racked on its own biner, I use a draw (which already has two 'biners).

For runners I want to rack on my harness with a single biner, I double the runner, clip it, put a twist or two in the doubled loop, then clip that. That stays fairly well together and is pretty easy to un-do one-handed, but not as easy as a regular tripled draw. I use this method for longer runners, as I tend to have more than enough 60cm runners elsewhere.


bill413


Oct 22, 2010, 11:53 AM
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chrisJoosse wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

Why do you need to switch hands to get off an over-the-shoulder sling?

Say I'm in a stance where my left hand is in a finger-crack, (my shoulder-slings go over my left shoulder) and I'm protecting at chest-height with a cam, and I want to extend the cam quickly. I plug the cam with my right hand, pull one of my shoulder-runners over my head so it's hanging on my left arm. I clip the runner to the cam using the cam's biner, and clip the runner to the rope using the runner's biner. Now the piece is extended and clipped, and when I climb on, I just need to slip my left arm out of the runner.

I carry a mix of tripled draws on my harness and single-length slings with single biners over-the-shoulder. If I need to extend cams, I'm faster with the shoulder-slings, they're already extended. For any pro that isn't racked on its own biner, I use a draw (which already has two 'biners).

For runners I want to rack on my harness with a single biner, I double the runner, clip it, put a twist or two in the doubled loop, then clip that. That stays fairly well together and is pretty easy to un-do one-handed, but not as easy as a regular tripled draw. I use this method for longer runners, as I tend to have more than enough 60cm runners elsewhere.

Say you're in a non-vertical crack area. You're left hand is on a hold and you're protecting out to the right. Now the sling over your left arm won't reach to the pro until it's removed.


hafilax


Oct 22, 2010, 1:06 PM
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Have a few over the shoulder and some tripled. If you can't use one from over the shoulder, use one of the trick tripled ones.

I tend to have most of them tripled and on the harness in case I hit a pitch with a lot of nut placements. I might have one or two over the shoulder but that's it. Pitches in Squamish tend to be pretty straight so I direct clip a lot of cams.


boadman


Oct 22, 2010, 2:09 PM
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USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

I carry 6 draws & 6 trad draws (shoulder length slings) that I can extend, unless it's an extraordinarily long pitch. I also carry a couple of double length slings on a biner if the route wanders a lot, or if I have to build my own anchors. Taking the time to take a sling off my shoulder is generally too pumpy on the stuff I regularly climb.


chrisJoosse


Oct 22, 2010, 2:23 PM
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Re: [bill413] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
chrisJoosse wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Normally I throw my two foot slings over my shoulder. However there are times that having to switch hands on a hold so I can get the sling off my shoulder is a major PIA. So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners. I have tried stacking them in two one foot loops back on the single biner that comes attached with the sling. That works okay, but I think a better option exists. So what do you all do?

Why do you need to switch hands to get off an over-the-shoulder sling?

Say I'm in a stance where my left hand is in a finger-crack, (my shoulder-slings go over my left shoulder) and I'm protecting at chest-height with a cam, and I want to extend the cam quickly. I plug the cam with my right hand, pull one of my shoulder-runners over my head so it's hanging on my left arm. I clip the runner to the cam using the cam's biner, and clip the runner to the rope using the runner's biner. Now the piece is extended and clipped, and when I climb on, I just need to slip my left arm out of the runner.

I carry a mix of tripled draws on my harness and single-length slings with single biners over-the-shoulder. If I need to extend cams, I'm faster with the shoulder-slings, they're already extended. For any pro that isn't racked on its own biner, I use a draw (which already has two 'biners).

For runners I want to rack on my harness with a single biner, I double the runner, clip it, put a twist or two in the doubled loop, then clip that. That stays fairly well together and is pretty easy to un-do one-handed, but not as easy as a regular tripled draw. I use this method for longer runners, as I tend to have more than enough 60cm runners elsewhere.

Say you're in a non-vertical crack area. You're left hand is on a hold and you're protecting out to the right. Now the sling over your left arm won't reach to the pro until it's removed.

OK, good point. In that case, I'd have to take a draw off my gear loops. That, or climb the crack and protect from there (which, crack whore that I am, I would probably do). Smile


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Nov 6, 2010, 9:31 AM
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chrisJoosse wrote:
Say I'm in a stance where my left hand is in a finger-crack, (my shoulder-slings go over my left shoulder) and I'm protecting at chest-height with a cam, and I want to extend the cam quickly. I plug the cam with my right hand, pull one of my shoulder-runners over my head so it's hanging on my left arm. I clip the runner to the cam using the cam's biner, and clip the runner to the rope using the runner's biner. Now the piece is extended and clipped, and when I climb on, I just need to slip my left arm out of the runner.

Sort of stating the obvious here, but don't fall with your arm elbow deep in the runner.


warrenw


Nov 6, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
...So what other options exist to stack the slings on your harness or gear sling? Obviously I could turn all the slings into trad draws, but that requires extra wasted biners...

I tried this racking method a few times for 60cm draws.



It uses a gear sling with loops on both sides, slipping the draw through a front gear loop and the rear gear loop. Metolius makes such a gear sling.



The method is based on how I prefer racking 120cm draws over the shoulder. Unclip one side of the draw and pull. No need to pull anything around your head or arm.

Turns out I don't use this 60cm draw version, though. I don't like the back loop on the gear sling. It's a pain to take the gear sling off when swinging leads. Racking 60cm draws as shown makes that worse.

Alternatively, you could try this method, but racking through a single gear sling loop or single harness gear loop. (Slip a 60cm sling through a gear loop and clip both ends with one biner.) But I found it annoying to unclip the biner from just one loop of the draw. This was not a problem with one draw through two gear loops (the method I mentioned first), as it pulls the ends of the draw away from each other.

So there are two ideas I don't like or use. Not exactly what you asked for...

w
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vegastradguy


Nov 8, 2010, 12:14 AM
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Re: [warrenw] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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i stopped carrying my runners over the shoulder years ago. i carry 10-12 trad draws exclusively these days.

the 'extra biner' is a non-issue. one, with todays carabiners, its not like 12-16 extra ounces is a big deal in the grand scheme of things (if the pitch is so difficult that weight is an issue, i'll dump a bunch of gear at belay anyway).

to each their own, but personally, i dig the versatility that trad draws give me both in the ability to get to them and having the extra carabiners around for when i need them.


captaincrash


Nov 17, 2010, 10:03 AM
Post #24 of 24 (3525 views)
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Registered: Nov 16, 2010
Posts: 2

Re: [USnavy] Options for racking slings? [In reply to]
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2' - all turned into extending trad quickdraws.
4' - wrap around neck and shoulder and clip ends together with a screw gate
Anything bigger - twisted into a neat 'knot' and held on a srewgate on the back of my harness.
Smile


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


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