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ltdanp21
Oct 27, 2010, 1:42 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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I'm taking a group to rb and want to set up some trs for the less experienced climbers. Any suggestions in the 5.7 to 5.10 range? I can lead.
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 27, 2010, 3:01 PM
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Rumbling really isn't a great cliff for walking to the top of the cliff and dropping top ropes. But as a capable leader you can put together a day of leading, top roping and cleaning. Just try to not tie up the routes preventing other folks from using them.
The Cereal Buttress has a number of classic one pitch routes that you can slingshot belay, but they really are classics that get a lot of traffic and you should be conscientious about tying them up. Minimize your time here.
in the broken up area between Shredded Wheat and Comatose , near the classic Sea Wolf arête, there are some routes that will work, as well. These are less traveled and never crowded and have some variety in the grades.
There's a sport route let of Comatose that you can probably rig a TR on. And with a 70m rope I think you can TR Comatose and Pull The Plug from the Comatose anchor. These too are quite popular.
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Oct 27, 2010, 3:47 PM)
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clemsonscooby
Oct 28, 2010, 1:42 PM
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Use the guide's wall next to the Cave area. If it is a big group, avoid the classics. You can also TR everything on the left side of the Flakeview area, Bear Hunt to Fine Line. To the left of Flakeview there is also more easy guiding area stuff. To get to the top of Flakeview hike around left of the wall, go up the gully and walk right to belay from trees. The 10's on that wall have to be top belayed, longer than 100'. All of that stuff can be led also.
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jamatt
Oct 28, 2010, 2:26 PM
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There's a small sub-buttress about 50 feet to the right of Nut-n-Homo. If you walk cliff right of the start of Nut-n-Homo, you'll be just about on top. Bring webbing/static rope to set anchors, and there's a nice 5.3 ish slab climb on the front, a .7ish route on the side with a low traverse, then an excellent mantle/layback move, and then some balancy footwork to gain the arete (it does require a directional placement to minimize swing), and then a 5.10 straight up the side face that shares the start with the .7 but does not traverse.
It's not a no brainer set-up, but if you know your stuff, it's doable.
I wish one of the NC Climbing Mafia would put some anchors on top to take some pressure off the fruit loops/granola/frosted flake area.
There's also what i've always called the ice cream wall, which has one set of bolts leading up the face to an anchor and then an easy traverses to two other anchors. the climbing is pretty monotonous face/slab, but the farthest left route does have a couple of interesting moves. It's between Beehive and the Cave Area. Some moron decided to chop one of the middle bolts because of some fictional gear placement so there is a possibility of a groundfall, but the climbing is super easy.
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sherpa79
Oct 30, 2010, 2:00 PM
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jamatt wrote: There's also what i've always called the ice cream wall, which has one set of bolts leading up the face to an anchor and then an easy traverses to two other anchors. the climbing is pretty monotonous face/slab, but the farthest left route does have a couple of interesting moves. It's between Beehive and the Cave Area. Some moron decided to chop one of the middle bolts because of some fictional gear placement so there is a possibility of a groundfall, but the climbing is super easy.
Always wondered why that bolt was chopped. Seemed kind of silly to chop it if it was a good bolt. I've stuck some gear up there, but it was so close to the bolt below that I don't think it would have made much of a difference.
Please DON'T take your toproping group to Fruit Loops. There's frequently an annoying number of people there. Or, if you do, get out of the way occassionally for other folks who want to to the climb.
There are a number of good tall boulders and other piles below the main faces that offer top roping access with a little bushwhacking.
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