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Gear for new climber?
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mattbche


Oct 29, 2010, 1:40 PM
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Gear for new climber?
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Hey guys. I wonder what kinds of pro I should pick up, since I will be moving somewhere that allows me to make the financial commitment for pro. I will be climbing on limestone and sandstone (think Southern Illinois, RRG, and Tennessee), primarily single pitch sport type scenario. I figure I will be top roping pretty heavily too, so I will need some supplementation for the existing bolted routes.

My gut feeling is to start with a 5-6 piece tricam and a 5-6 piece nut set, and pick up a few small to medium range SLCDs. Would this suffice?

PS, I am kind of new to the whole pro placing game, and what little I do know I got from Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. I won't just run out and try to lead right away = potential injury or worse.


Paul_W


Oct 29, 2010, 2:02 PM
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Re: [mattbche] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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I would go for 7-8 stoppers #2-#9 say, go easy on the tri-cams, save up for a set of caming devices. start in the 1"-3" range for moderate trad routes. l like metolius but everyone has a preference. If you are new to trad climbing, follow an experienced leader and get used to taking out their gear so you know what a good placement looks, feels like. that type of knowledge is not readily picked up just from book learning. I were to buy a new rack now i would look on craigslist because often you find people selling whole mounds of useful gear for not much $. you need to know what you are looking for though. hope this helps.


bearbreeder


Oct 29, 2010, 2:15 PM
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Re: [mattbche] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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- full set of nuts ... just buy a prepackaged set it's cheaper ... huecos are the clear value leader, offsets are da bomb

- full set of camelots or other manuf equivalent from #0.5 to #3

- pink and red tricams ... the most useful ones

- 2 double length slings with biners

- 4 single length slings with biners

- 6 draws ... you can substitute this with single length with biners if you want or just use the same draws as you do sport climbing

- anchor material such as 6m of 7mm cord or a 240 cm nylon sling

- 4 lockers, a few spare biners


Partner j_ung


Oct 29, 2010, 2:56 PM
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Re: [mattbche] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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mattbche wrote:
Hey guys. I wonder what kinds of pro I should pick up, since I will be moving somewhere that allows me to make the financial commitment for pro. I will be climbing on limestone and sandstone (think Southern Illinois, RRG, and Tennessee), primarily single pitch sport type scenario. I figure I will be top roping pretty heavily too, so I will need some supplementation for the existing bolted routes.

My gut feeling is to start with a 5-6 piece tricam and a 5-6 piece nut set, and pick up a few small to medium range SLCDs. Would this suffice?

PS, I am kind of new to the whole pro placing game, and what little I do know I got from Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. I won't just run out and try to lead right away = potential injury or worse.

For sport climbing and toproping, you need none of that.


mattbche


Oct 29, 2010, 4:32 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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True, but a fully function rack is nice to have in any case. I anticipate getting into trad in the future. Especially if I'm going to top rope an unbolted route without any obviously solid trees nearby. My friend does this all the time at Devil's Lake (bolting is banned there). Sometimes rock is the only thing you have!


shrug7


Oct 30, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Re: [mattbche] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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Oh... there's a few bolts up there at the Lake, they were placed in the 60's and 70's...

My basic Devils Lake rack is:
Set of stoppers. (Hexes work well up there as well)
C3 1,2
C4 .5 - 3 Doubles and a #4 and #5 from time to time.
Tricams Pink -> Blue
Trad/alpine draws (about 8-10)

Same basic rack goes for Soill and the RRG, though depending on the climb I'll bring an extra C4 or two.

TopRope at the Lake, Set of nuts, set of hexes, lockers and a shit load of webbing.

Soill and RRG have bolts, but most climbs have to be lead first.


(This post was edited by shrug7 on Oct 30, 2010, 8:43 PM)


ianwatson


Nov 1, 2010, 7:40 AM
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Re: [shrug7] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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im still new to trad only got about 6 months, i am almost done piecing it togeather. I started with a set of nuts and the pink-blue tri-cam set. i set these pieces inbetween bolts on sport climbs to get practice. then i realized here in NM i needed alot of small gear so i got 1-5 master cams, the #4 is a life saver i alway get sketchy around that size and reach for that size alot. then i got 1-4 c4's and 7-9 hexes. i picked up biners and slings along the way 8mil cord for anchors ( i need to feel extra safe) and this rack has got me up anything i have climbed so far easy. i do plan to get a .5 and .75 c4 and a 0 mastercam and a few more "trad" draws. This is a good all around rack in my area.

EDIT- missread your post, for sport just get 10-15 draws a rope, and a set of nuts and have at it.


(This post was edited by ianwatson on Nov 1, 2010, 12:21 PM)


spikeddem


Nov 1, 2010, 11:47 AM
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Re: [mattbche] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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mattbche wrote:
Hey guys. I wonder what kinds of pro I should pick up, since I will be moving somewhere that allows me to make the financial commitment for pro. I will be climbing on limestone and sandstone (think Southern Illinois, RRG, and Tennessee), primarily single pitch sport type scenario. I figure I will be top roping pretty heavily too, so I will need some supplementation for the existing bolted routes.

If it's primarily single pitch sport, all you need is draws. Borrow gear or go with someone that already has the gear you'll need for the other times.

I'd recommend against buying a trad rack based upon the assumption that you'll get into it.


shimanilami


Nov 1, 2010, 1:00 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Gear for new climber? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
I'd recommend against buying a trad rack based upon the assumption that you'll get into it.

On one hand, this is probably sound advice, especially if, as stated, he'll be climbing "... primarily single pitch sport ..."

On the other hand, it's Christmas time and he may need things to add to his list. Also, having some trad gear may provoke him to actually trad climb, which isn't a bad thing. And finally, if he finds it useless, then perhaps he'll put it up on Ebay where, as Majid will tell you, is the cheapest place for the rest of us to buy new or used gear.


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